Ezip 750 overvolting.

Tryker · Jul 10, 2019

I run an old EZip 750 scooter at 36v thru the 24v controller. The motor just doesn't heat up even with this voltage and my 200 lbs. after a full charge run on the beach in sand, etc. However, I think the controller is cutting out after it heats up toward the end of a ride or after a really steep hill. A quick shut down, few seconds wait time and back up and running but it keeps coming until a long cool down. No seeming permanent damage as all continues to run as usual. Thus, I assume putting in a higher voltage controller is the right thing to do. I need feedback on which one will work for a modest price.

I am also building (Thanks Micah Toll) a 36v 18650 Li Ion battery to power this versus the three 12v SLAs currently in use. Any particular issue with this conversion would be nice to know in advance if any advice is floating around out there in that Endless Sphere of knowledge!

Dauntless · Jul 10, 2019

Your throttle is bound to be going bad, not likely to work with the new controller, so it's a good thing this cones with one. The 1000w is 36v, supposed to be almost the same amp draw as the 750w 24v. This should be simple enough.

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-36-volt-5-pin-controller-throttle.html

Dui ni shuo de dui · Jul 10, 2019

Tryker said:
I run an old EZip 750 scooter at 36v thru the 24 controller. The motor just doesn't heat up even with this voltage and my 200 lbs. after a full charge run on the beach in sand, etc. However, I think the controller is cutting out after it heats up toward the end of a ride or after a really steep hill. A quick shut down, few seconds wait time and back up and running but it keeps coming until a long cool down. No seeming permanent damage as all continues to run as usual. Thus, I assume putting in a higher voltage controller is the right thing to do. I need feedback on which one will work for a modest price.

It seems to me that it doesn't cut off because of the heat, but more likely because you are reaching the low voltage limit of your controller.
When the battery is close to being empty and you are riding on a hill, this leads to more current draw. The consequence being that the voltage will sag under the controller limit. In order to prevent the battery for discharging too much, which could cause damage to it, the controller will cut off the power. Then the battery voltage will rise up again and it will go back over the limit, thus re activating the controller.

The only way around here would be to add more battery capacity.

If you want to make sure it's not the controller overheating, then try to put it somewhere it could get more air flow, or install a few fans to blow air on it. If it doesn't cut anymore then you'll know for sure that was actually the problem. In which case, just buy a higher power rated, same voltage controller.

endlesslove · Jul 11, 2019

How To Mod Ezip 750 For Torque Increase?
Got inspiration from a scooter in GTA SA game from APKNite. I recall that I have an older Ezip 750 24 volt and I am interested in more amperage or sprocket change that would help with hill climbing.
Don't care how fast it goes.
Thanks in advance!

Matador · Jul 11, 2019

More torque (amps) requires bigger controller. Or you can do a shunt mod and trick the controller to think it sees less current than it actually lets go through, beefing up thensoldering traces too might be helpfull... There's probably a limit to how much you'd want to overamp your controller before it blows up. Raising amps will caise more heating. Heating multiplied by time under load equals poyential controller failure...

Matador

Tryker · Jul 12, 2019

Dauntless said:
Your throttle is bound to be going bad, not likely to work with the new controller, so it's a good thing this cones with one. The 1000w is 36v, supposed to be almost the same amp draw as the 750w 24v. This should be simple enough.

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-36-volt-5-pin-controller-throttle.html

Thank you...this was the option I had in mind. I have extra throttles for 48+ volt ebikes so that was something I knew was coming eventually...along with the controller but dang, for a year now it has worked trouble free.

One fellow mentioned battery draw down under load...I get this and considered it but have plenty of juice and the recovery is so fast...5 seconds I tend to think it goes back to the controller. Hence the original questions...what controller...now I am curious if there are cheaper options as well. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Tryker · Jul 12, 2019

Dui said:
Tryker said:

I run an old EZip 750 scooter at 36v thru the 24 controller. The motor just doesn't heat up even with this voltage and my 200 lbs. after a full charge run on the beach in sand, etc. However, I think the controller is cutting out after it heats up toward the end of a ride or after a really steep hill. A quick shut down, few seconds wait time and back up and running but it keeps coming until a long cool down. No seeming permanent damage as all continues to run as usual. Thus, I assume putting in a higher voltage controller is the right thing to do. I need feedback on which one will work for a modest price.

Click to expand...

It seems to me that it doesn't cut off because of the heat, but more likely because you are reaching the low voltage limit of your controller.
When the battery is close to being empty and you are riding on a hill, this leads to more current draw. The consequence being that the voltage will sag under the controller limit. In order to prevent the battery for discharging too much, which could cause damage to it, the controller will cut off the power. Then the battery voltage will rise up again and it will go back over the limit, thus re activating the controller.

The only way around here would be to add more battery capacity.

If you want to make sure it's not the controller overheating, then try to put it somewhere it could get more air flow, or install a few fans to blow air on it. If it doesn't cut anymore then you'll know for sure that was actually the problem. In which case, just buy a higher power rated, same voltage controller.

Good points. I did consider the battery draw down but seems unlikely since the juice is still there and the recovery is as fast as I can switch it off and back on. I also have that extra battery for the 36 volts so amp limits on the battery are generous. Testing immediately (today) after a hill climb (right down the block) shows plenty of power available when it cuts out. Might be the throttle too from what I read. Keep on learnin' dan'l Thanks so much for the great reply

Dauntless · Jul 13, 2019

If you're running a 24v system on a 36v battery, the voltage cutoff is so low I don't believe you're hitting it without destroying the battery. Been there, done that.

Dui ni shuo de dui · Jul 14, 2019

Dauntless said:
If you're running a 24v system on a 36v battery, the voltage cutoff is so low I don't believe you're hitting it without destroying the battery. Been there, done that.

Oh yeah I think you're right.
In the first post when he said "I run an old EZip 750 scooter at 36v thru the 24 controller" I assumed he was talking about a 24FET controller, not a 24V.

If it's a 24V controller then yes, there's no way he could have reach the lower voltage limit without knowing it

So yeah, heat is likely to be a good reason for the controller to behave this way. Not only heat from the power stage but also heat from the low voltage converters. Could also be some kind of overcurrent protection, since the controller runs at a higher than expected voltage. The motor resistance remains the same, so current rises too.
It's time to switch that controller for a 36v one.

pellicle · Jul 15, 2019

it wasn't my question but I learned a few things of worth just reading.

Thanks

Ezip 750 overvolting.

Tryker

1 mW

Dauntless

100 TW

Dui ni shuo de dui

10 kW

endlesslove

1 µW

Matador

100 kW

Tryker

1 mW

Tryker

1 mW

Dauntless

100 TW

Dui ni shuo de dui

10 kW

pellicle

100 mW

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