Electric Roadster

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Chalo   100 GW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Chalo » Mar 05 2021 7:55pm

Elektrosherpa wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:47pm
Chalo wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:44pm
Elektrosherpa wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:31pm
Don't you think it's quite dangerous driving in city traffic without turn signals?


Image
LOL
If you would use theses signals around here where I live, you wouldn't survive more than 10 minutes in city traffic :D
And my wife just said, in Russia you wouldn't even survive ONE minute :P
I have about 35 years in city traffic, in cities that rank among the top 20 US cities by population. Those are the only signals I've had for most of that time.

But I do enjoy hearing uninformed opinions from folks who are too chicken-hearted to actually try it and see.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

Elektrosherpa   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Elektrosherpa » Mar 06 2021 5:31am

Chalo wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:55pm


I have about 35 years in city traffic, in cities that rank among the top 20 US cities by population. Those are the only signals I've had for most of that time.

But I do enjoy hearing uninformed opinions from folks who are too chicken-hearted to actually try it and see.
...and I do enjoy hearing from guys who are too chicken-brained to imagine conditions other than in the USA :mrgreen:
My Build (Bultaco Sherpa T350 -> QS138H70) :
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=110352

LeftieBiker   100 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by LeftieBiker » Mar 06 2021 7:41am

As long as you use the "alternate" right turn signal and not the original one, you will keep your arms. I've been using them since about 1976, on motorcycles first and now bicycles. The original version of the right turn was worthless anyway: 9 out of 10 people think you are waving at them. The 10th thinks it's a Nazi salute.

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 06 2021 10:56am

Elektrosherpa wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:31pm

If I remember right, you said you are using the bike for riding to your work in a city.
Don't you think it's quite dangerous driving in city traffic without turn signals?
Well not really dangerous IMO but there are a few reasons for that:
-I live in China, and here most people don't use them anyways (that is slowly changing though if I'm being honest, more and more drivers start using their turns signals)
-I find them barely useful for a motorbike anyway, better concentrate on driving than fiddling with turns signals and other distracting stuff
-They aren't that useful if you ride fast. These things purpose is mostly to tell people behind you to be careful and slow down because you're about to somehow interfere with them driving. Doesn't really happen if you drive fast enough and don't force people behind you to slow down. And here it's easy to be faster than other drivers, because people here drive pretty slowly, nothing remotely comparable with the speeds we are used to in France (d'ailleurs je savais pas que t'etais francais, tu viens de quel coin?).
Here people don't care about what's behind them, they only concentrate about what's in front of them... To the point that most people don't even know what's the purpose of the central mirror, they don't even learn that in drivng school.
-I removed the turn signals on my other bike since I got it. Never had anyone complaining.

Anyway, not trying to convince people to do that in their countries, but I surely wont install stuff I won't use on my bike ;-)
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

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Chalo   100 GW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Chalo » Mar 06 2021 12:02pm

LeftieBiker wrote:
Mar 06 2021 7:41am
As long as you use the "alternate" right turn signal and not the original one, you will keep your arms. I've been using them since about 1976, on motorcycles first and now bicycles. The original version of the right turn was worthless anyway: 9 out of 10 people think you are waving at them. The 10th thinks it's a Nazi salute.
That hand signal was designed for (left hand drive) cars when many of them didn't have turn signals. No cyclist should signal a right turn with the left arm; it's silly.

Signaling a stop is something I never do, because when I'm stopping I want to have hands on both brakes.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

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Chalo   100 GW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Chalo » Mar 06 2021 12:04pm

Elektrosherpa wrote:
Mar 06 2021 5:31am
Chalo wrote:
Mar 05 2021 7:55pm

I have about 35 years in city traffic, in cities that rank among the top 20 US cities by population. Those are the only signals I've had for most of that time.

But I do enjoy hearing uninformed opinions from folks who are too chicken-hearted to actually try it and see.
...and I do enjoy hearing from guys who are too chicken-brained to imagine conditions other than in the USA :mrgreen:
So you're saying that more comprehensive driver training and more severe penalties for traffic violations (outside the USA) result in worse drivers? I find that difficult to believe.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

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JimVonBaden   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by JimVonBaden » Mar 07 2021 7:16pm

Chalo wrote:
Mar 06 2021 12:02pm
LeftieBiker wrote:
Mar 06 2021 7:41am
As long as you use the "alternate" right turn signal and not the original one, you will keep your arms. I've been using them since about 1976, on motorcycles first and now bicycles. The original version of the right turn was worthless anyway: 9 out of 10 people think you are waving at them. The 10th thinks it's a Nazi salute.
That hand signal was designed for (left hand drive) cars when many of them didn't have turn signals. No cyclist should signal a right turn with the left arm; it's silly.

Signaling a stop is something I never do, because when I'm stopping I want to have hands on both brakes.
Try signaling on a motorcycle using your right hand. I think your small sphere of experience is fatally flawed.

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 07 2021 8:36pm

Sorry to interrupt this fascinating turn signal debate, but here are some updates of the build :lol:

So I finally started painting the frame. And it wasn't a walk in a park because I had to do it several times, because the color wasn't right.
So, first, I finished prepping the frame with bondo and then a nice thick coat of primer:
IMG_20210306_221807.jpg
IMG_20210306_221807.jpg (213.79 KiB) Viewed 1280 times

Then, I tried the metallic red, which looked weirdly brownish.
Keep in mind that my camera is really, really bad at capturing red colors, for some reason they look very different in real life, but this picture kind of reflects best what was the color:
IMG_20210306_225936.jpg
IMG_20210306_225936.jpg (229.77 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
Got a few nice shots, but they aren't color accurate, in reality it was much darker/brown.
IMG_20210306_231854.jpg
IMG_20210306_231854.jpg (228.9 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
IMG_20210306_231840.jpg
IMG_20210306_231840.jpg (240.55 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
It looked ok under the artificial lights of my garage, but once outside the next morning I didn't like it and my wife also said it was a bit too dark:
IMG_20210307_110334.jpg
IMG_20210307_110334.jpg (310.92 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
so I had to take the difficult decision to do it again... So back to sanding, prepping and then finally put a nice coat of much brighter red:
IMG_20210307_162933.jpg
IMG_20210307_162933.jpg (251.9 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
Again, keep in mind that my camera is far from being color accurate, in real life this looks exactly like a Ferrari red. I'd prefer a metallic one but unfortunately all the ones I tried weren't good so I'll go for this non metallic one instead.

Now it's curing under the heat of the AC, I'll put a few more coats this evening and probably also some clear coat later.
IMG_20210307_232834.jpg
IMG_20210307_232834.jpg (148.32 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
IMG_20210307_232900.jpg
IMG_20210307_232900.jpg (160.31 KiB) Viewed 1280 times
I'm quite happy with the result, This was my first actual paint job with a spray gun and so far it seems satisfying.
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

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Chalo   100 GW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Chalo » Mar 08 2021 12:31am

JimVonBaden wrote:
Mar 07 2021 7:16pm
Chalo wrote:
Mar 06 2021 12:02pm
LeftieBiker wrote:
Mar 06 2021 7:41am
As long as you use the "alternate" right turn signal and not the original one, you will keep your arms. I've been using them since about 1976, on motorcycles first and now bicycles. The original version of the right turn was worthless anyway: 9 out of 10 people think you are waving at them. The 10th thinks it's a Nazi salute.
That hand signal was designed for (left hand drive) cars when many of them didn't have turn signals. No cyclist should signal a right turn with the left arm; it's silly.

Signaling a stop is something I never do, because when I'm stopping I want to have hands on both brakes.
Try signaling on a motorcycle using your right hand. I think your small sphere of experience is fatally flawed.
Motorcyclists aren't cyclists. Anyway, to signal with your right hand, you pull in the clutch lever with your left and work the brake if necessary with your right foot.

I rode motorcycles as my primary transportation for a dozen years. They had turn signals. Some of my buddies' bikes didn't. Somehow they got by just fine too.

In the state where I live, a motorcycle isn't required to have turn signals. If it does have them, they are required to work.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

hugok   100 mW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by hugok » Mar 08 2021 2:53am

I'm following this thread for the build, could you start a new thread for the hand signals if you want to continue discuss that?!

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Chalo   100 GW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Chalo » Mar 08 2021 1:29pm

hugok wrote:
Mar 08 2021 2:53am
I'm following this thread for the build, could you start a new thread for the hand signals if you want to continue discuss that?!
Your post is off-topic. So is this one.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 08 2021 8:55pm

Chalo wrote:
Mar 08 2021 1:29pm

Your post is off-topic. So is this one.
You mind stopping, please?
I asked you twice already, please don't pollute this build thread. :wink:
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

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JimVonBaden   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by JimVonBaden » Mar 08 2021 9:56pm

Dui, ni shuo de dui wrote:
Mar 08 2021 8:55pm
Chalo wrote:
Mar 08 2021 1:29pm

Your post is off-topic. So is this one.
You mind stopping, please?
I asked you twice already, please don't pollute this build thread. :wink:
:thumb:

SlowCo   10 MW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by SlowCo » Mar 09 2021 3:51am

Great progress again. I love watching your build and the quality of the work you're doing! :bigthumb:

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JimVonBaden   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by JimVonBaden » Mar 11 2021 9:34pm

Dui, ni shuo de dui wrote:
Feb 18 2021 11:09pm
JimVonBaden wrote:
Feb 18 2021 10:34pm
That is looking outstanding. Happy it works now.

My next step is calibrating the controller, and frankly I am nervous. Did you use full battery power to power the controller for calibration? I wish there were a video showing the process, but I can't find one, just the manual to do it.
Yeah, the manual explains everything but you have to read it very, very carefully. And being fluent in chinglish really helps too ;-)

To get the wheel spinning, here's what I've done:
IMPORTANT: I'm using a KLS72701 controller, so it is possible that the procedure is slightly different on yours. Read the manual for your controller carefully, if it says anything differently than what I just wrote, then refer on your manual_

Connected the following things on the controller:
-throttle
-hall sensor
-motor phase wires
-power on wire (coming directly from the battery positive terminal or from your key contactor, I forgot how you wired it on the vespa)
-Main power from the battery, positive and negative

That's all. Didn't connect anything else at this point to limit the unknowns, so that's the strict necessary.

Then, lift the rear wheel before you power on the controller, you never know what can happen, you don't want the bike to suddently go full speed (almost never happens, but better safe than sorry)

So, next step is to download the software, for that you go to the kelly website, then support section and you choose the app corresponding to your controller. I suggest you to use the desktop app at first instead of the bluetooth, you can always use the bluetooth android app later.

Once you downloaded the software, extract it somewhere on your hard disk drive.

Then, connect the RS232 cable to your controller, and the usb end to an usb port on your computer.
Power on the controller (so to answer clearly your question, yes, it needs to be connected to the battery at that point and everything should be connected as I instructed before. Very important: never touch the throttle when your controller is connected to the PC or you'll destroy the controller. The Kelly manual repeats this thing over and over again so I guess this is really sensitive. The motor cannot spin under its own power during the programming.

Once you plug the controller into your PC, wait a little bit for the drivers to get installed. In my case, they refused to install themselves the first time, so what I did was simply to unplug the USB cable and then plug it on a different usb port on the same computer. This time it worked. Don't ask me why, it's magic.

Once the driver is installed, then you can open the app.

The first thing you'll have to do is to make the self learning test, where the controller will determine the hall sensors orientation. The manual is quite confusing and the app is also quite weird, but basically you just do the followings:
-Switch off your brain, just follow the steps
-Click on "vehicle" at the very bottom of the window
-Locate the line "Identification angle"
-There should be a number in it, probably 85
-Change this number to 170. Don't ask me why 170, it doesn't make any sense but apparently that's the magic number to get this whole process starting.
-Click on write and then do not touch anything
-I forgot if I had to restart the controller or not at this point, so if nothing happens after ten seconds, then restart the controller
-wait for another ten seconds, if I remember correctly the motor will make some weird click noises, move slightly a few times, then the controller will beep once finished.
-Restart the controller again
-Now it should display 85 again at the line "identification angle"

After that, I just restarted the controller, closed the app and disconnected the usb cable.
I twisted the throttle and the motor was spinning.

Let me know if you have any problem, I'll try to help. But basiclly, read the manual with patience and without rushing and you should be good to go.
Took me maybe 20 minutes to figure out so that's intimidating for sure but that's really no rocket science ;-)
Thanks so much for this. It really made the factory instructions legible. The BT dongle, and me cutting the badly wired brake wire, got it going!

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 14 2021 9:41pm

@JimVonBaden that's great, super happy for you, congrat's!

Ok so on my side things are going well too, I sanded the paint to get it smooth:
IMG_20210310_001547.jpg
IMG_20210310_001547.jpg (226.53 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
Then sprayed some more layers on it, and waited a few days to give it a chance to cure well
IMG_20210310_124851.jpg
IMG_20210310_124851.jpg (220.6 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
Then took it outside to see how it looks like under sunlight:
IMG_20210313_153317.jpg
IMG_20210313_153317.jpg (363.92 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
IMG_20210313_153322.jpg
IMG_20210313_153322.jpg (362.19 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
I'm extremely happy with the result, it's perfectly smooth and the color is a great match with the carbon fiber, it's 100 times better than the previous red. My camera still doesn't quite catch the exact color, but it's exactly the classic Ferrari red we all know and love. :lol:

Anyway couldn't resist to put it together to see how it looks like. I didn't install the battery enclosure because the paint is still a bit easy to scratch, so I will give it at least one more week to really cure before I try it. I really worry about the paint durability, it looks really nice but it seems really easy to damage too. Not so sure why, I hope it just needs more time.
So here are a few shots:
IMG_20210313_163057.jpg
IMG_20210313_163057.jpg (273.64 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
IMG_20210313_170637.jpg
IMG_20210313_170637.jpg (360.59 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
IMG_20210313_170731.jpg
IMG_20210313_170731.jpg (309.09 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
IMG_20210313_171321.jpg
IMG_20210313_171321.jpg (344.12 KiB) Viewed 1062 times
I'm very happy with the color and also wth how smooth I managed to get it. All this prep work and hourd of sanding paid off, it almost looks like a high quality frame now :lol:
Compared to how I got it in the first place the difference is huge.

So I guess now will be time to work on the carbon fiber parts. But it will have to wait a little bit, I'm currently upgrading my 3D printer so I'll need to finish it to be able to print the molds.
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

hugok   100 mW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by hugok » Mar 15 2021 2:52am

Aren't you suppose to add clear coat after painting?

I don't know anything about painting metal but I've seen pimp my ride :lol:

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JimVonBaden   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by JimVonBaden » Mar 16 2021 12:33pm

That looks great!

My experience with paint says that either you use automotive paint, or you need to bake it on to cure it. 90% of spray paints are just not that durable otherwise.

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 17 2021 3:29am

It's a 2K automotive paint, so according to the manufacturer it doesn't need clear coat and it cures naturally by using two parts (the paint and a hardener).
Hopefully it just needs time, we'll see.
That being said, a few layers of clear coat won't hurt, I'll do that in a few weeks.
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

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JimVonBaden   100 W

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by JimVonBaden » Mar 17 2021 10:12am

Dui, ni shuo de dui wrote:
Mar 17 2021 3:29am
It's a 2K automotive paint, so according to the manufacturer it doesn't need clear coat and it cures naturally by using two parts (the paint and a hardener).
Hopefully it just needs time, we'll see.
That being said, a few layers of clear coat won't hurt, I'll do that in a few weeks.
The only help you will get with clear coat on that paint is a little better shine. Otherwise it is just more paint. Too thick of paint actually makes it chip easier. Something to consider.

Maico4   1 mW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Maico4 » Mar 18 2021 5:27pm

Excellent build. I am interested in the Kelly controller. I have the same one KLS72701. I bought an inexpensive Android tablet and put the Kelly App on it and it works great. I have a Daly Smart BMS's on my battery packs, and the software is on the same android. Both of them work great on the Android and it is easy to screen capture things so I can categorize and review later.
I am interested in your 200A out of the controller. What should your maximum amperage be out of your battery pack?
I have 3 battery packs of 20S7P Sony VTC6 cells. Each one puts out about 200A. On my amp meter with only one pack connected, I get 190A, with 2 packs connected I get 270A, with all 3 packs connected I get 270A. I don't believe the Kelly can put out more than that, or more for very long. I cannot see the current at takeoff, but it just doesn't have the power I think it should. My motor is a ME1302 on a YZ250F frame. The motor is rated to take 660A, the controller is supposed to put out 700A, at 72V(84V fully charged).
I drag race an ALTA which has the same horsepower that mine is supposed to have. and he walks away. I have about 6 to 1 reduction from motor to rear wheel.
72V x 600A is 43.2KW that should be a solid 50 + hp. I have communicated so many time with Kelly to try and improve this, but no success.
Here are my settings, and these are for an ME1302 motor, and a motocross track, if you have any questions on any of the settings, I have a reason for a lot of them. Ask me and I will try to explain.
Screen 1a Rideable.jpg
Screen 1a Rideable.jpg (128.89 KiB) Viewed 932 times
Screen 1b Rideable.jpg
Screen 1b Rideable.jpg (106.65 KiB) Viewed 932 times
Screen 2 Rideable.jpg
Screen 2 Rideable.jpg (92.38 KiB) Viewed 932 times
Screen 3 Rideable.jpg
Screen 3 Rideable.jpg (106.17 KiB) Viewed 932 times
Screen Monitor Rideable.jpg
Screen Monitor Rideable.jpg (66.68 KiB) Viewed 932 times
The red circles are changes in this setting from last.

I hope this helps.
Don

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Mar 19 2021 2:06am

Maico4 wrote:
Mar 18 2021 5:27pm
What should your maximum amperage be out of your battery pack?
I haven't checked yet so I don't know, I expect it to be around 300A from the battery, possibly more for a very short period.

Maico4 wrote:
Mar 18 2021 5:27pm
I have 3 battery packs of 20S7P Sony VTC6 cells. Each one puts out about 200A. On my amp meter with only one pack connected, I get 190A, with 2 packs connected I get 270A, with all 3 packs connected I get 270A. I don't believe the Kelly can put out more than that, or more for very long. I cannot see the current at takeoff, but it just doesn't have the power I think it should. My motor is a ME1302 on a YZ250F frame. The motor is rated to take 660A, the controller is supposed to put out 700A, at 72V(84V fully charged).
Yes. But you have no way to measure that, what you're measuring is the current on the battery side, not on the motor phase side, that's very different. Having 270 amps draw from the battery might very well mean that you have 700 Amps on the phases. On my other controller (sabvoton), the controller draws on 200 amps from the battery while outputing 500+ amps on the phases.
Maico4 wrote:
Mar 18 2021 5:27pm
72V x 600A is 43.2KW that should be a solid 50 + hp.
No, that's a common misconception, you cannot calculate it like this.
The current on motor side might be high, but the voltage isn't, so you are likely to be way off.
I'd say that the closest indicator to real power is battery voltage x battery current, minus at least a 10% efficiency, loss and that is only valid if your motor isn't saturating already.
If the motor is saturating, then it might be even less than that.

I've never used your motor and to be honest I'm not the most knowledgeable person regarding Kelly programmation software, this is actually only the second time I used it, so I think you should probably ask for experts on other threads, I don't think I can help you (I sure would if I could, but I don't want to mess up your bike by feeding you with bad advice . :wink:
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

kudos   10 kW

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Re: Electric Roadster

Post by kudos » Apr 08 2021 5:20pm

Stumbled across this thread and read it through, just wanted to say its all very impressive, well done.

Looking forward to the next instalment, subscribed.
Build 1A Gary Fisher Wahoo Hardtail : Crystalyte HS3540 40A 49V
Build 1B Gary Fisher Wahoo Hardtail : Mac 10T 30A 49V
Build 1C Gary Fisher Wahoo Hardtail : Crystalyte HS3540 40A 82V
Build 2 Mountain Cycle Fury FS : Mac 8T 40A 57V : Scrapped
Build 3 GT LTS FS : Mac 10T 30A 49V
Build 4 EEB Frame: Mac 8T 40A 49V 32Ah

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Dui, ni shuo de dui   10 kW

10 kW
Posts: 685
Joined: Jan 29 2016 3:21am

Re: Electric Roadster

Post by Dui, ni shuo de dui » Apr 13 2021 3:24am

Thanks @kudos !

Done many little stuff over the past days, but nothing really visually impressive:
-Finished some bracketry to secure the battery (essentially making it look cleaner and a bit nicer)
-Finished prepping the fork, putting fluids, tuning it up, etc.
-Properly installed the steering bearing
-Finally finished the brakes, installing the brake pads, securing the brake flexibles, purging the liquid, etc.
The brake power is really impressive, and I managed to do a perfect job on the purge, both levers are rock hard.

Also painted the 3D printed covers in black, to at least protect everything during the time I'll make the final carbon ones:
IMG_20210412_223059.jpg
IMG_20210412_223059.jpg (200.23 KiB) Viewed 691 times
IMG_20210412_223113.jpg
IMG_20210412_223113.jpg (210.44 KiB) Viewed 691 times
I also weighted both my bikes, and I was actually surprized to see how lightweight my black sportsbike is:
-Black bike weights 130 kg
-Red bike weights 113 kg

So, the red one is significantly lighter, around 17kg, but I was expeting a much greater difference. Turns out I did a pretty good job at keeping the black bike lightweight. That was a bit of a surprize, I honestly had no idea how much it weighted.

Anyway, now the bike is entirely road ready. I just have to sort out a controller setting gremlin (the bike makes some heavy vibrations after it reaches a certain speed, dunno why but hopefully it's a small issue), and I'll be able to drive it to go to work.
It is now time to work on making the carbon fiber parts, I've been procrastinating a lot on this but now there's not much else to be done.
:bolt: New Build in Progress: Electric Roadster, 30 000W Kelly KLS72701, 24S2P A123 cells :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=109246

:bolt: My electric Ninja 250 clone: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 23S2P A123 cells : :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=90032

:bolt: My electric Scooter: 16 000W Sabvoton 72200 Unlocked, 72V 20Ah 24S1P A123 cells: :bolt:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=75912

fatty   10 kW

10 kW
Posts: 672
Joined: Nov 14 2020 9:15pm
Location: USA

Re: Electric Roadster

Post by fatty » Apr 13 2021 3:37am

Great build threads.

Can I ask why you switched from Sabvoton to Kelly? You seemed quite happy with the Sabvotons in your other builds.

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