Upgrading to a 60volt fat tire scooter to 72 volt and wiring kelly controller

Hello, I've never posted anything before so pls bare with me. I can't figure out how to match continuous and peak current of battery,controller and motor. I keep reading all the same stuff over and over but just can't quite fully grasp it. I'm upgrading a 60 volt scooter to 72 volts. Il basically just be keeping the frame,I'm replacing the battery,controller and motor. It's a fat tire seated scooter so it's hard to find a rear hub motor that will match the size of dropout and size of tire, it's 235mm dropout( I'm pretty sure) and the tire is 225/ 55-8, thats a 18 inch diameter by 8.5 or 9.5 inches wide. I will confirm all that before I make the final purchase.

I'm thinking about a 72 volt 50 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery. The manufacturer said the continuous discharge current is 50 amps and max discharge current is 100 amps.

I'd like to go with a good sine wave name brand programmable controller,I was looking at kelly controllers but am open to a different one. I will have it programmed at an electric bike shop near me,so I'd like to have clear instructions for the controller,after some time I will learn how to program it myself but il have them do it the first couple times( to dial it in). I'm looking at a 72 volt controller but I can't figure out which one to get because the discharge current part I don't understand. How would I match that to the battery?

Lastly,matching the motor. I found a 72 volt 2000 watt 60 h hub with tire and rim on amazon. I would rather have something more powerful,like 3000 or 4000watt but the 2000watt is the most powerful hub i could find that will fit the existing dropout and tire size. What does 60 H mean?

I'm 230 lbs and the scooter will be around 130lbs with batteries and motor so there's gonna be around a 400 lb total load. Not too many hills. I'd like to go as fast as possible for as long as possible. Anyway, any info anyone has would be greatly appreciated. There's a Pic of the 60 volt 2000 watt scooter that I'm upgrading and the 72 volt 2000 watt hubmotor that il be replacing the hub motor with. I talked to a battery manufacturer and they can make the 72 volt 50 ah battery to the shape I need. Thanks

Matching volts and amps is not too hard once you get your mind around it.

Let's start with your battery: Your battery might have the ability to give you 100 amp maximum pulse (Peak) discharge current, but that doesn't mean it will do it automatically. It is your controller that dictates the current draw on the battery, however your BMS has to be able to handle those amps as well.

Your controller: It can not be rated at a higher current discharge then your battery can handle or it will overheat your battery and kill it or cause a fire. If it is rated with a lower maximum peak discharge then your battery can handle, that is fine.


Your BMS: It will have to be spec-ed out to handle the maximum discharge of your current, which is controlled by the controller. BMS's usually come with a pre-built battery pack. If you are having a custom battery made, make sure the BMS can handle the maximum amps of your controller.

So it goes like this: (If you want to get everything out of your battery) and your 72v battery can peak-discharge at 100 amps, then your 72v controller should also peak at no more then 100 amps. (A controller stronger then your battery will over discharge your battery and cause damage to your battery.)

Your BMS also needs to be able to handle at least 100 amps. It is fine for a BMS to be rated for a higher amperage, just not lower.

So get your battery, a controller that will not discharge over the maximum peak of your battery, and a BMS that can handle the maximum peak discharge of your controller.

Thanks for your reply,I appreciate u taking the time. So I was emailing kelly controls about this setup. There kls 7212N is rated at 60amps continuous and 140 peak discharge current,but that's to the motor,I told them the battery is only rated at 50amps continuous and 100amps max discharge and they said the 60 cont and 140 max is to the motor side of the controller, not the battery. I don't know what motor side means. Then they actually recommended the kls 7218N. This one is 80 cont and 200 max(if I remember correctly). They said this should cover me no matter what.. Wouldn't I need to get a controler with less amps since my battery is 50 cont and 100 peak?So do I need to ask them what is the max and cont current on the battery side? Thanks again

I went on qs motor,they have a 100 amp max current( dc side) and 340 max amps on the phase side. Is the DC side,the battery side and the phase side ,the motor side?

If this is the case,then I understand now, that is where the confusion was coming in at. I thought there was only one current eating for the controller but if there is a battery side and a motor side and I just need tocmatch them up,I can understand that

So kelly controllers said the max draw from the battery is 100 amps,that matches the specs that the battery manufacturer said,manufacturer said 50 continuous and 100amps max current discharge.does this sound right?

So the battery is 72 volt and 50 ah.
Max discharge current-100amps
Max continuous current-50 amps

Kelly controller kls7218N
Battery side of controller max current draw- 100 amps
Motor side continuous current- 80 amps
Motor side peak current- 220 amps

Motor is 72 volt 2000 watt 60H but I don't have any more info than that right now. But I hear these hub motors can be ran pretty high,as long as I have a temp sensor in my motor,I should be ok? Correct?

How do I find compatible disc brakes? I Need them to connect to the regenerative braking on the controller,also throttle kit that will be compatible? Speedometer? Also compatible with a kelly kls7218N

Over-volting a hub motor is possible until it over heats and burns up.

If its a 72 volt hubmotor and a 72 volt controler and battery, would I be overvolting it?

post the links to your motor, controller and battery

I appreciate any info u can give me,I don't know how to post a link from the kelly control website,but it's the kls7218N 72 volt 80 amp continuous and 220 max current

And the battery is from rj lithium, a Chinese manufacturer 72 volt 50 ah 50 amp cont and 100 amp max discharge current ,the kls7218N pulls 100 amps max from the battery side of the controller,the 80 amps cont and 220 max discharge is for the motor side of the controller

Am I misunderstanding something or am I on the right path?

The battery configuration is 20 or 24 3.2 volt nominal charge lithium iron phosphate cells In series,there 3.2 volt 50 ah each cell

I'm 230 lbs and the scooter is around 130 140 with battery so it will be a total load of around 400lbs. I'm basicly just trying to go as big as I can to get as much speed as I can,I was originally looking at bigger hubs but none had 235mm dropout and trying to match a split rim to fit onto a hub that matches the existing front tire on the scooter was a nightmare lol so I'm just gonna have to be content with the 72 volt 2000 watt hub from amazon,I literally couldn't find another one tjat that wide except alibaba and such but I don't know about dealing with them plus a crazy shipping fee

For linking ,when you make a post there is a string of icons above the text box. The one that looks like a little linked chain is the one for linking.

When you push it, you should get something that looks like this:

then you cut and paste the web address in between the

Then when you submit the post it will link.

https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-mn/

https://www.rj-lithium.com/sale-120...heel-electric-motorcycle-lifepo4-battery.html

Are these the links to what you want?

Ok got it thanks for the tip,I wasn't lying when I said this was my 1st time posting. The battery link is the company but I just talked to one of the reps Alice ghan through email.I never actually saw that particular battery on there website but it looks like the link you posted.

So what do u think? Any red flags sticking out to u ? I plan on having a temp sensor for my motor and I'm gonna mount the controller on a heatsink of some type and fit it somewhere under the seat. I've been reading about throttles,can any 72 volt throttle work with that controller, I'm thinking half twist grip throttle with a 3 speed setting, does it need to be rated for certain volts or amps?

Throttles are not rated amps. They are only rated for volts when they have a battery meter of some kind. A three speed switch is a nice thing to have when you want to just cruse and save some battery capacity for long trips.

A basic throttle has a two magnets on either side of a ss49 hall sensor. The controller sends a voltage of something just under 5v to the hall sensor, and depending what magnet pole is closer to the hall sensor it returns a voltage of between just under 1v and just under 5v. The controller reads the return voltage and responds accordingly.

So the answer to your question, yes any 72v throttle should work. It depends on the whistles and bells you want, depending on the wiring of your controller. Some controllers offer different functionality then others.

Hey thanks again for ur knowledge, I was also looking at non hub motors,like a middrive ,but without the gears,just a motor with a little sprocket on it, I would be able to use that with a regular rim and with a sprocket on it,I like the clean look of the hub motor tho. I'm def gonna go with the hub motor first,but if it doesn't have enough power than I might need to figure something else out. I could go 72 volt but 5 to 10 kw with a non hub motor. I'm sure that would be plenty,but then I have a big ol motor right in the middle of the scooter,nowhere near as clean looking.

Another thing I'm looking into is a disc brake kit, how thick do u prefer the disc to be,I see 2 and 3 mm thick, I need something that will be able to hook up to the regenerative brake connections on the controller. How are they rated? Amps? Watts? Volts? Size of disc(diameter),then I also have to hook up turn signals,brake light and headlight. But thats something il prob buy from the guy at the electric bike shop near me and from my understanding there will have to be a separate power source for all the signal lights.

But my main concern is the brakes right now because that's something that I will prob buy by myself , I would love to be able to connect all the major wires my self and programm and start it up myself and then just have the bike shop do the light and stuff

Would I be able to put everything on a jig of some kind and get it all hooked up and running, then when I figure it out, i can unhook everything, and I can install everything on the scooter in its final place. If I unhook everything from the jig,will it lose the programming that I did on the jig, in other words,if u program the controller,then disconnect all wires,do u need to program again,or does it remember what it was set to and all I have to do is reconnect all the wires again? I hope that makes sense. If I had to figure out the connections and program it only while it's on the scooter, I would be without a scooter for a while prob cause I know it will take some time for me to figure it out. Anyway i know there's alot here,any info is appreciated

https://www.amazon.com/Panap...B07PMBWVTH?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_dls_failed


I hope that link worked,this could really simplify the turn signals and taillight and I'm gonna look for a head light that works wirelessly also. The only thing I want hardwired would be the brake light so it works automaticly. So all I really need to figure out is the brake. Il have to wait until I get the hub to measure the brake mounts and disc brake size.

So one thing I can't find alot of info about is matching a speedometer/ battery lever indicator / voltmeter display. Do all 3 of those measurements come on 1 display or would I need multiple little displays? I saw battery level indicatator on throttles but the only throttle option on the kelly website only has the 3 speed switch,not battery level? I would atleast need a speedometer and battery level indicator at minimum for this scooter. How can I do this?

Hello I'd like to ask a question, would I be able to put my hub motor on a jig of some sort in order to get all the wiring and some of the programming of the controller done? Then program the basics just to get it running and spinning. Then I could unhook everything and install it in its final place on the scooter and finish dialing the parameters of the contol settings.
My question is,when I unhook everything from the jig,will the little bit of programming I did be deleted? Or will it be at the same settings it was on the jig before it was disconnected? So does disconnecting the control wires delete all the programming done? Every time I unhook a wire from the conrroller,will I have to reprogram all parameters? Thankyou very much for any info

So I'm changing the name of this to "upgrading from a 60 volt to 72 volt scooter and wiring kelly controller" I'm figuring this out little by little so il just keep posting my progress so other people can learn from my successes and mistakes.

I think the settings are kept even without current.

So not to be redundant but il give you a rundown of what I have and what I'm upgrading to.

60 volt fat tire scooter from fatbear scooters.18 by 9.5 inch tires. 60 volt 12 ah lithium battery and no name controller.

I'm upgrading to 72 volt 2000 watt hub motor of the same dimensions and same tire.i don't know the max and continuous amps. but I think it will be able to handle the controller,if not, il be upgrading to a bigger motor in the future. Il be using a kelly kls7218N 80 amp continuous and 220amp max discharge current on the phase(motor)side,and 100 amp max on the dc(battery)side.

Il be getting a 72 volt 50 ah lithium iron phosphate battery. The configuration is 20 or 24, 3.2 volt 50 ah single cells in series.The max discharge current is 100 amps and continuous is 50 amps.