1984 Honda Elite CH125

Joined
Jun 2, 2021
Messages
14
Hi. I'm hoping to change the old scooter to an electric. It is not easy to get a street legal e-scooter in my state so I hope retrofitting will work out. I'll update what is going on as it goes on.

84-elite-125.JPG

Really appreciate any advice too.

I hope to be able to reach 55mph in a pinch, so I've asked about 72V QS MOTOR.

I just got a quote for a motor and battery and parts. Does it look good?

Code:
1pcsx QS V4 10inch 3000w drum motor wheel
1pcsx 72V150A sabvoton controller
1pcsx bluetooth adapter
1pcsx throttle with switch
1pcsx 12V dc-dc converter
1pcsx CT-22 hall display
1pcsx Alarm
1pcsx 72V10A charger
1pcsx 72V50Ah lithium battery (410x150x153mm)

These are parts preview.

Battery
battery.jpg

controller
sabcontroller.jpg

display
display.jpg

12 step down
12stepdown.jpg

QS
qsmotor.png
 
I got another estimate with a different battery size.

Code:
1pcsx 72v QS V4 10inch drum brake motor wheel 100Kph possible speed
1pcsx 72V150A controller
1pcsx bluetooth adapter
1pcsx throttle with switch
1pcsx 12V dc-dc converter
1pcsx display for speed and battery charge
1pcsx Alarm (optional)
1pcsx 72V charger (USA Plug)
1pcsx 72V50Ah lithium battery (220x170x320mm)

I made a template and I think this battery size can work. What do u think?
Template 220x170x320 top
IMG_0077.JPG

I'm sure I can grind down the frame some and make a nice box in there for this size battery to slide in and rest an inch or two above the frame into the former gas tank space.

Template 220x170x320 side
IMG_0075.JPG

My idea is to bolt this Suzuki swing arm in there just above the parking stand. Is anything wrong with having the swingarm pivot a little lower than the rear axle? It looks like that is what will be the result.
 
FbGFxVQhO6UHmBZQU said:
My idea is to bolt this Suzuki swing arm in there just above the parking stand. Is anything wrong with having the swingarm pivot a little lower than the rear axle? It looks like that is what will be the result.

If I understand correctly, then it shouldn't be a problem. You'll see this on most motocross bikes also.

Screenshot 2021-06-10 at 19.57.47.png
 
kreal said:
If I understand correctly, then it shouldn't be a problem. You'll see this on most motocross bikes also.

thank you for advice. i think this low rider is really more like the case I will end up with.

lowriderpivotbelowrearaxe.png

the pivot will be lower than wheel axle. but surely not that much lower. it is very encouraging.
 
Got to sizing up the swing arm in the low-rider position. Still could try it up in the original spot where Honda had the motor mount. If this ends up the location, should like to get a real space welded in on the sides and maybe the center. IMG_0081_resized.JPG

IMG_0082_resized.JPG

IMG_0084_resized.JPG

IMG_0085_resized.JPG

I would wish to find a solid bolt with thread only at the end though. If u know any link to such bolt please share.
 
FbGFxVQhO6UHmBZQU said:
I would wish to find a solid bolt with thread only at the end though. If u know any link to such bolt please share.

If I would need such a special part, I would go to a locksmith/lathing workshop and ask them to custom make one.
My favourite workshop usually wants for such simple things just "a few Euros for the tip money box"...
 
And then there is my (rather long) build from two years ago where one thing led to another and I ended up with my much-loved “Elektra”. You can definitely learn from my mistakes along the way. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=98446

P.S. my front forks were derived from a Honda CH250!!
 

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Some parts arrived today.
Motor and controller with some gadgets.

IMG_0098.JPG

I bought some 45 degree valve stem, but seems not useful for this wheel. What valve stem has worked for you

IMG_0097.JPG

Looks like this is the controller: https://www.far-driver.com/nd72530black-blue/

I guess I need some wire connection extenders and maybe some converting connectors.

Any advice on setting up?
 
FbGFxVQhO6UHmBZQU said:
Some parts arrived today.
...
Any advice on setting up?

Display and Handles look like what I have got from QS.
Seems like the wiring plan of the display provided by QS (if any...) is wrong.
(see my build thread for correct cable color apportions)

The display I got has a huge hole on the back side.
I closed it with a piece of rubber, to avoid a fish tank inside :p
 
That's some cool stuff you just received. You will reach your objectives with this hardware, but you'll need a good battery capable of reliably delivering all this current. Make sure your supplier knows that the battery needs to output at the very least 150Amps continuous. You need cells with low internal resitance/high C-rating.

Sorry if I'm being harsh, but cant' you find a better base for your build? It doesn't look like a very good frame, plus I don't think you have any brake disc at the front wheel (you definitely want one if you are to reach 55mph), and, at least to me, the looks of the fairings is just absolutely horrific (but I guess everyone has different taste).

It is difficult to find some cheap moped from the scrapyard where you live?
 
Dui said:
That's some cool stuff you just received. You will reach your objectives with this hardware, but you'll need a good battery capable of reliably delivering all this current. Make sure your supplier knows that the battery needs to output at the very least 150Amps continuous. You need cells with low internal resitance/high C-rating.

Sorry if I'm being harsh, but cant' you find a better base for your build? It doesn't look like a very good frame, plus I don't think you have any brake disc at the front wheel (you definitely want one if you are to reach 55mph), and, at least to me, the looks of the fairings is just absolutely horrific (but I guess everyone has different taste).

It is difficult to find some cheap moped from the scrapyard where you live?

Thanks for inspiration and concerns. I ordered a 72v battery. Without any experience in this it just seemed like it should hit 50-55 in a pinch according to some charts I saw on the sales pitch sites. I likely won't ever go that fast for any long time.

The seller from Alibaba also tried to help me go disk brake, but I was set on keeping drum for the classic ride feel.

Might been able to find some other things, but I had this one around for 8 or 9 years, just getting wasted in the sun. It is actually like the first motorcycle i had around 1986. So this has nostalgic value.

After that, it is really just a test case, to see if I can make it work. I'd like to make a bigger chopper in the future.

Above all those ideas however is the fact it is very difficult to find a street legal electric for low cost in this state. They have a limited list of motorcycle manufacturers that are allowed to go over 25mph. Since this is a legal bike, it was a good fit to try transforming.
 
JimVonBaden said:
I have the same throttle and grip. My advise is to remove the brushed metal parts. They easily distort and are very uncomfortable.

...and my advice is to throw it away as soon as you can! :lol:
That is if you plan on running your bike under heavy rain at some point. Water does get in and I had a few big scares because of that, either the throttle was not working anymore so I came to a dead stop in the middle of nowhere, or, much much worse, the throttle suddently goes full speed when you expect it the least. Happened to me when I was waiting at a red light, it almost threw me under a truck...

I really recommend you guys to go for cable throttles, they are better in every possible way.

@OP, I understand the sentimental value of this scooter to you, no problem, go for it then!
(but you really, really should give a second thought about the brakes, braking hard is part of the fun of having a powerful machine, not even mentioning basic safety) :wink:
 
I've tried to think through the Fardriver controller and other wiring. The diagram was little helpful but some things are not so clear until I get the battery. Anyway, i have some basic idea with some hints from google translate.

This one was rather easy. I think I can send a yellow 12v wire to the original ignition and from there to the controller.
voltage converter 1200.png

Small display has a 6 wire output and my assumptions for their operation:
  • Red: 12v in
  • Blue headlight: but we will use that for high beam indicator since we need headlight on all times in this state.
  • Orange: connect to left turn signal hot wire.

display wires 2.JPG


Other three display wires:
  • Black: ground
  • Black & White: speed display
  • Lan comes up Chinese for Orchid in Google. Assuming this is the purple wire for the right turn signal.

display wires.jpg
 
I think the battery I got was built for a different application. Maybe a 800 or 1000 watt city scooter. It says 40Ah on the box but had just a computer style plug. I learned that plug is only good for maximum 10amps so I did a calculator on the internet and learned it will need even 45amps to max out a 3000W motor.

IMG_0115.PNG

Fearing it might melt down some wires I looked inside. There were just some little bit larger wires 12AWG and 10AWG connected to a BMS (MP20S002) that says 40A on it.

Searching wire size on the internet I learned that 8AWG is required for 40A power and the hole that the 10&12awg wires were soldered to seemed like it could be bigger, so I got some super worm wire and tried revising the cables.

IMG_0131.JPG

IMG_0134.JPG

This is made of plate style cells, like giant cell phone batteries, rather than the round type that appear on majority of videos. It might be a reject or leftover, because one of the cells says 2019 on it.

I had to shop around for battery stuff and cable ends and got some shrink wrap too.

IMG_0136.JPG

Working on the top of the box to have one of the disconnectors for the main cables.

IMG_0144.JPG

IMG_0145.JPG

I did not put the battery back in the box yet. It is easier to size up for a tray while the box is empty. The landlord gave me an old electric meter and part of the box looks like it can be a suitable base for a battery tray.

IMG_0140.JPG

IMG_0139.JPG

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Thanks again for any advice.
 
Found some time to tinker a little more. I connected some wires and I think this layout will work for the initial setup with a Fardriver controller. It will not uses so many terminal blocks. I just drew them to think about how many wires need to connect to hot or ground.

Elite 72V Fardriver Wiring.png
 
If your BMS really says that it is designed for 40A,
I can tell you from my experiences that this will be way too weak for really powering the QS138 motor:

My battery came with a 65 A BMS, and this was too weak, too.
I have exchanged it to one with 200/350 A, and only now the battery is useable.

For more details on the whole battery/BMS thing, have a look at my build thread.
 
Nice looking build! will be a fun ride once you get a capable battery

if the bms is 40a rated you can bet the cells are not capable of much more and you will ruin them at 100a discharge fairly quick

its all part of the battle, saving by buying cheap stuff then spending way more in the long run. I have been doing it for years
 
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