RIPPY SCOOT

[RIPPERTON]

CNC'ing the busbars and clamps. Also planning the battery management connections to the busbars.
Made a dummy end frame to se if it fits in the battery box. The first example didnt fit because the
box isnt perfectly straight all the way down, gets narrower so had to make the frame smaller.
Used the thread tapping machine to tap 200 threads in the clamp bars.
The red insulation tape on the busclamps stops chafing and props the bar out toward the tabs so the screws start easily.

[RIPPERTON]

This is the inside face of the end frame for the front pack.
The loopy groove is for a silicone tube that will be pressed against the surface of the busbars.
I couldnt find any silicone tube with high thermal conductivity so bought a standard food grade tube with 7mm OD and 1mm wall thickness (very thin). I will size the groove so the tube will get squashed into a D shape. This rad / fan should fit under there somewhere.
This build might be lower performance than the Kart but I learnt that a cooling system is better there even if you dont need it.

[RIPPERTON]

When only the best will do....Batrium battery management systems.
These Longmons and harness came off the race bike last used in 2016.
Trying to make a scramble of wires look sensible is a challenge.

[RIPPERTON]

Moving along to the cooling system. Experimental trough design.
Il have the one on the left except 4.5mm deep.

[RIPPERTON]

3 different tool paths for the end frame.
6mm Bull Nose for the internal corners.
6mm End Mill for the area clearance and blind holes
4mm End Mill for the small holes and outside.

[RIPPERTON]

Front pack is in, tight fit. Each cell block is mostly supported by its tabs as they are quite stiff.
There a small gap designed between each block but there will be a bit of sag. Important is the bottom block does not support the weight of the whole pack.

[RIPPERTON]

Rear pack is 24s 2p 37kg.
Wooden frame to make sure all bolts can line up.
Also helps when tightening so the tabs dont get tweaked

[RIPPERTON]

Got this 120mm radiator off EBay. Like folding the other radiator in half. $24
The rear pack has cell number 21 in it. Thats half way through the whole pack and where I want to attach 2 small cables for the 87v kart chargers. These are small chargers that I can pack into the helmet bin for destination charging.
Problem is getting those cables out amongst all the management wires.

[RIPPERTON]

Found these M4 lugs that will fit under the acetal cover and run 10A wire out.

[RIPPERTON]

24 Batrium Longmons wont fit lying flat so have to rack them standing up. They are 2.5mm thick so have to jog the toolpath for the 3mm end mill so the acetal frame grips them a bit.

[RIPPERTON]

Rear pack is built. Will check airgap under the bottom cell in a few days.
Will also bench test BMS system before final install.

[RIPPERTON]

Batrium BMS system is up and running....on the kitchen table.
All cells are either 3.74v or 3.75v factory shipping voltage.
The BMS system is re used virtually as is from the race bike last run in 2017.

[RIPPERTON]

Both packs in and charging with the old R1 Elcon charger at 22A.

[RIPPERTON]

Original phase cables wernt long enough to reach ctlr so 3 short cables down to the originals which are awfully skinny lookin.
And an acetal insulator box clamp standoff thingy with 4 M4 screws whipped up in 40 minutes.

[RIPPERTON]

First run.
Motor seems to be wound tall ie low turn count in the coils. Doesnt take off very fast from standstill but accelerated well from 40kmh onwards.
https://studio.youtube.com/video/SaWz11n4E_M/edit

[Dui, ni shuo de dui]

Awesome build, your battery design is great
I especially like the idea you had to tilt all the little balancing PCBs to gain space, small detail but very neat.

[RIPPERTON]

Thanks Dui.
Im having problems with the controller, its not powerful enough or is going to blow up soon.
I have 2 300 amp versions of this and will try one of them.
Ultimately it should have a sinusoidal unit so if anyone knows of a good ctlr other than Kelly 175v 300A let me know

[RIPPERTON]

After bothering to invent a new way to Pre Charge Boot the scooter with momentary buttons, one to the precharge both the ctlr caps through a resistor and power up the DC-DC 12v supply which energises the main contactor after 10 seconds and another one to disconnect the DC-DC 12v to shut the whole system down, I just went with 2 rocker switches instead.
The ctlr caps can be powered down for long storage so no drain. Switches hanging out will be fitted later.
No Batrium atm but the 2 kart chargers are pumping up to 24A which is as much as the 4kW Elcon charger and half the size.

[RIPPERTON]

Went for a 20km ride today and the scoot performs well.
The motor is wound tall and doesnt get off the mark very quickly but at around
60kmh any throttle shows this scoot has plenty of legs.
At 2 and a half times the original battery voltage and more than double the ctlr current the motor gets very hot and doesnt cool down after stopping. Its a big chunk of unventilated metal and as predicted will need modifying.
The ctlr gets hot too and will probably get the fan/radiator that was intended for the battery pack.
Top speed in the burbs today was 105kmh (not flat out).
Also got a 19mm brake master cylinder for the integrated disc system that works well.
The original MC was 14mm and had too much travel with both calipers.
The 19mm MC isnt exactly double the diameter but works with acceptable lever travel and very powerful.
The regen function cuts out at about 10kmh so need the discs to stop at lights.

[Elektrosherpa]

... the motor gets very hot and doesnt cool down after stopping.
...
The ctlr gets hot too and will probably get the fan/radiator that was intended for the battery pack.
...

Would be interested to know what temperature you call "very hot" resp. "too hot".

My QS138 is also getting hot, and I would like to compare it with other values.
(Kelly software told me that my motor goes up to ~ 80°C inside, but the controller does not get over 33°C)