Honda CRF QS 4000W 90H Votol 200/2 Controller Problem

Freeridepete

100 µW
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Messages
8
Hello electric bike community,

here is my project from Germany.
A Honda CRF 250 from 2017. With the conversion QS138 4000W 90 H and Votol EM 200/2
The battery is 72V and 90ah, the biggest I got in. When assembling the battery first had to go through the frame.

https://youtube.com/shorts/72BhGK6Qa4I?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/xuaETIa2Mg8?feature=share

I've already done test drives, but I'm not entirely satisfied with the performance, I think it would do better..

My problem is that I cannot program the EM 200/2. Cannot connect to Windows 11 PC...

The Votol Bluetooth Adapter for Android does not give any plausible values ​​either.

I bought the whole kit from Harry QS. He is very nice but always sends the same versions of the program and driver. Without solution.

Today, after the 3rd test drive and a break, the engine no longer starts, but you can hear humming noises and when I turn the engine by hand and give it the throttle, it runs.. see video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Vb80TDg-bAE?feature=share

Can you help me? Does anyone know the problem?

Who also has an EM 200/2? I wanted the best but it seems more of a disaster.

What is the best controller for the QS138 4000W.

Greetings from Cologne.

Peter
 

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My best advice would be to get or borrow an old pc that can read the program and see what kind of settings and errors you have.

Do you have a hall sensor throttle or a potentiometer throttle?

One thing that could be the issue is the throttle voltage outside of limits. I had a similar behaviour with Votol and a Domino potentiometer throttle where the controller would sometimes lock at startup. Possibly the spinning of the motor changes the logic behind this error in the controller so that error is removed. I solved it with resistors on the throttle line but after two years got a runaway throttle accident. After that i switched to hall based throttle. :wink:

The votols are good when they work but if you have issues.. it’s hit and miss. I am curious about the fardriver controllers, it’s what i’d get today for this motor but they haven’t been used so much here yet so can’t solidly recommend one.
 
Thanks for the answer.

I tested both 2 different Hall and Domino, the effect is the same.
The motor does not turn, but you can hear a feverish noise..
The throttles work as they should and control from 1V-4.7V.
Or do you mean something other?

Which throttle do you use now, the most Chinies are only for smal hands....

I have now tested 5 PCs with Windows 11, 10 and 7, even one with China's Windows 7. No chance of the controller connecting. It seems to be a poor quality one..

QS writes it could also be the Hall sensors on the engine.

The engine has been running for less than 1 hour.

Does anyone else have an idea?

I now think that QS should exchange this kit for me, it just doesn't work..
 
I got a hall sensor throttle from qs. It’s full width but a bit too smooth turning - I’d like slightly higher turning resistance from it. The domino was the best i’ve ever tried.

Could it be a problem with the programming cable? Does it come up as installed correctly in the device manager on your computer?
Or is it the CAN / no CAN setting in the program?
 
You could have a false-positive hall sensor combo.
 
what does that mean 😃
and what can I do about it? Repair?
Motor absolute run time is less than an hour.
I took a break of about 15 minutes and wanted to continue. Then nothing worked before I used energy for about 15 hours.
 
I have tried everything, installed drivers, tested programs in version V 23, V 30 and V37..
always comes at the end:
lets open the serial port..
the serial adapter works according to all PCs
it is with CAN the controller and also the cable bought directly from QS together in the kit.

https://youtu.be/7NAWrtWY8aE
 

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It's wrong in the video.
Do you have the CAN bus or the serial version?
Serial:
Connect the USB adapter,
look at the com port in windows (4!?),
start the software,
enter the baud rate (9600),
select not !!can,
select the com port (4),
press open,
wait a little when "baud rate" is grayed out....
Press Connect.
The order is important!!

In your garage it looks like mine(Freeride, crf250...) where in Germany are you?
 
Ah ok thanks, i'll Test ist at the weekend, and come back.

Iam living 50km in the east of Cologne.

Yes, iam satisfied with the Freeride, its perfect for freeriding, nur not for Cross.
 
Ah ok thanks, i'll Test ist at the weekend, and come back.

Iam living 50km in the east of Cologne.

Yes, iam satisfied with the Freeride, its perfect for freeriding, nur not for Cross.
 
I've tried everything.
I do not get a connection..
I have a CAN controller
EM 200/2
Does anyone of you have a working EM 200 latest version?

What do you think of the Fardrive 72530? this was also recommended by QS here in the forum.
 
I’d go with a higher amp like ND72850 if you have the budget for it.
Just to get everything out of the motor :D

kV from qs figures is 4000/72 so about 56 rpm/volt
kt=1/(56/9.55)=0.17 Nm/A

So to get the stated peak 72Nm torque out of it minimum 424A is needed in theory but at peak torque there’s saturation which lowers the Nm/A so even higher current is needed.
 
That sounds good 😃
I'm also looking for performance...
I have a 150/300A BMS from the xiaoxiang that I can raise with the app today I have 150A in the discharge current.
The 72530 is not enough, right?
Are the Fardrive better to program?
So that the engine works, or is there already a setup to import?
because now I can't do anything with the Votol. Also do not see what is programmed.
 
72530 will be enough according to specs but they are normally exaggerated quite a bit, that’s why i’d go one step higher. The rest of the questions are probably better taken in the fardriver thread.
(i don’t know, haven’t tried one yet)
 
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