how to seal the positive "Y" end of a diy batt

want to build · Jul 13, 2019

hi i did a prototype of an batterie. all wires are soldered except for the positif one .
i dont know how long i need to leave before the Y and how to do the Y.

when i say Y i mean that somehow i wire becomes 2 wire (one for charge the other for power)

I see 2 ways of doing it .
the first is using 3 different pieces of wire and to mix their end all at the same place named 3 different wire y

the second method uses only 2 wires and is named encercled y . the one from positif end is never cut . i youd remouve 1 cm of the insulator protecting the wire to place the end of an other wire aroud this naked part .

wich way is better?
if it is the second method, were should go the wire that is blue on the picture? to charger or power?

want to build · Jul 17, 2019

some one ?

john61ct · Jul 17, 2019

Properly crimped asymmetric butt terminals from FTZ Pacer or Ancor, and adhesive-lined heat shrink.

want to build · Jul 18, 2019

how about this wiring around if i add solder and a heat shrink?

I searched your terms but omg there are so many kind of terminals!

you mentionned ancor and ftz pacer , are those 2 name of brand?
i could not find asymetric terminals .

is what you are thinking about on this picture,s choices?

how to know if i need copper and the size needed for 100amps

john61ct · Jul 18, 2019

looks like "step-down" is more commonly used than assymetric
https://www.google.com/search?q=step-down+heat-shrink+butt+terminal+FTZ+OR+Pacer+OR+Ancor

I generally do not use solder, but if you're good at that and can seal properly, relieve any stress loadings etc go for it.

want to build · Jul 20, 2019

HI
i do not know if the job i do is good but i know that i can adda lot of tin and that it will be solid.

the only thing with that Y formation is how to seal it properly. with heat shrink the long part (bottom) will be sealed ok i beleive buy i do admit that i do not know how to make it so that the space between the two higher branch of th Y are sealed.

in other words the place where the arrow i added points is a mystery on how to seal it correctly. does anyone know how to ?

Also on a different but similar topic, when i asked the contructor of the controller im buying if it was waterprof he said yes the controller is but the wires are not... does anyone know what it means?

want to build · Jul 21, 2019

anyone knows?

john61ct · Jul 21, 2019

Not how I'd do it, but for a temporary fix in an emergency, this stuff

3M Scotch Rubber Mastic Tape 2228 https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Rubber-Mastic-Tape-2228/?N=5002385+3294317059&rt=rud

is pretty good.

plenty of NO-OX-ID first

https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html

john61ct · Jul 21, 2019

want to build said:
when i asked the contructor of the controller im buying if it was waterprof he said yes the controller is but the wires are not... does anyone know what it means?

Are you sure you're not trolling?

Nothing is "waterproof", an impossible ideal. These are the common standards for approaching it https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

A box may resist entry, but the connections to the exposed wiring should be made to minimize / delay corrosion.

Usually by proper gastight crimping and adhesive-lined heatshrink.

If done properly solder adds nothing positive.

want to build · Jul 21, 2019

when you say If done properly solder adds nothing positive., do you mean it does not make a more conductive connection?
or do you mean that soldering does not solve the non water proof problem?

what do you think about this solution , using hot glue to fill the space between the wires and adding 3 rings of glue so that the heat shrink has a circular grip?

how best is having a adhesive lined HS compared to regular HS? im not sure i see how it is more effective apart for non sliping away wich does not seem to be a prob

john61ct · Jul 21, 2019

The proper implementation of a three-way connection that will be exposed to the outdoors, afaic is to crimp only, using the right tool and the terminal type I linked to above.

There are literally thousands of threads debating the hows whys pros and cons of all the possibilities which I'm not re-hashing here, and are all easy to find by googling.

The best discussions are in marine DC electric forums. Aviation/aerospace and military best practices gets too persnickety even for my taste.

flat tire · Jul 21, 2019

I could solder that easily, you can too but you will need to pay attention to mechanical stress after it's made. Why isn't it soldered already? Wrap the 3 ends tight with a single small strand of wire before soldering to improve results.

MJSfoto1956 · Jul 22, 2019

This is how I would do it.

want to build · Jul 22, 2019

flat tire said:
I could solder that easily, you can too but you will need to pay attention to mechanical stress after it's made. Why isn't it soldered already? Wrap the 3 ends tight with a single small strand of wire before soldering to improve results.

it isnt because i usually like to know how to do things correctly before jumping.

The 2nd pict on this page is the strat of 3 ends together.

the reason why i lean toward my blue black picture is that
1st the cable from batt to connector is never cut so best change of better circulation
2 I read the charging cable is not so demanding so i assume that it ca be the branck wrapping around
3 i dont know how to make the butt end hold togheter
3 i dont know if using butt connector will make a funnel for energy trnasmission.
4 mecanically it is true that i could be weak but if i put a lot of tin plus 2 tie wrap plus heat shrink ifeel this will be enough.

my concerne is more about how to make a connection that is water resistant...

and how best is having a adhesive lined HS compared to regular HS? im not sure i see how it is more effective apart for non sliping away wich does not seem to be a prob...

flat tire · Jul 22, 2019

You are overthinking this!

Regular heatshrink is fine.

Electrical tape, mastic tape, silicon, tar, epoxy, gutta percha and many more things I'm not thinking of can waterproof it. Note, waterproofing is not really a safety issue with only 13S.

Finally, and most importantly: You won't know "correct" until you're an expert (and then, many will disagree with you) so settle for good enough. Take extra time to evaluate depending on the stakes.

Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh · Jul 23, 2019

https://www.amazon.com/Raychem-Thermofit-Shrinkable-Polymeric-Transition/dp/B005T5HENM
https://buyheatshrink.com/learning-center/y-shaped-heat-shrink

Unlike traditional methods of joining multiple wires, these wire butt connectors include an active adhesive that melts between the wires, when heat is applied, to provide a watertight seal.

spinningmagnets · Jul 23, 2019

I'd cover the copper strands of the Y with liquid tape (dries like rubber), and cover the joint with marine grade heat shrink (marine means made for boats).

how to seal the positive "Y" end of a diy batt

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