spinningmagnets said:
Yes, I believe it got hot at some point. If it had been a smudge from the outside rubbing against something, the dis-coloration would be shaped like the bus strips, which sit higher than the cell-tips.
thats what I suspected
Sometimes I see a pack where the cells are adequate, and they run cool because the bus material is steel. In that situation the pack has voltage sag, and the bus strips act as resistors. The buses are hot, and the cells are cool.
understood.
Lets imagine that your bus strips are pure nickel, which is over three times as conductive as steel. If the controller requests more amps than the cells can safely provide, then the buses remain cool and cells get hot. It "looks like" three of your cells are running hotter than the rest.
indeed, something looks to be running hot to me. I'm not sure of the orientations of the cells within the pack but wonder if its the cells or the bus ... and I'm expecting that its not nickel, but that would be nice.
how much drama is it to unpack that and repack?
should I alternatively just request a replacemnt from the seller under warranty?
When that one P-string starts sagging because its smaller capacity is used up. it begins dragging down the voltage of the whole pack.
agreed, I'm familiar with this issue in NiMH which ran the off grid radio repeater systems I used to service.
After just a short ride, It's as if you are now running a 13S system with only 12S's worth of cells.
yes, but because I didn't pull the pan off and look until after I'd done another couple of longer rides I can't be sure when that heat emerged. When I first got the scoot the seller mentioned that this model had the "unrestricted speed" option still in the firmware. I had not given that more thought until the first ride when I noticed (on that nearly 1km long uphill) that the battery was sagging (I did not study it carefully as I was dividing my attention between it and the road).
Another thought I had is that because the dual motors can pull a peak of 800W each (but I assume that's at the lower RPM when there is less back EMF) that maybe there was too much load for the battery pack to actually cope with?
I wish I had a way of monitoring the wattage consumption.
The BMS (even the simplest and cheapest BMS's) will think the whole pack is now low and the Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) will turn the battery off.
so then you think (or suspect) that this system has a BMS sealed within it ... I guess that would be prudent.
Do as you wish, but I would proceed with extreme caution.
that I'm posting here is (to me) a clear indication that I'm indeed proceeding with caution. As mentioned earlier once I had that first "stutter" of power I examined the firmware settings and found that the speed limiter was indeed disabled, so I immediately re-enabled it. I wonder if the "stutter" was a momentary drop in voltage below 40 which may have caused the controller to drop out
Since that first "round my block" trip it has not been run without that speed limiter in place, however I have done an extended run a little up a local mountain range. The grade on that is no more than 4degrees. I have my data on that trip here:
none the less, thanks heaps for your input and if there is any interest I'll report here as I find out things.