I saw a power supply on Amazon that was supposedly capable of supplying from 0-60v dc @ 10A or 600w on 110v input. I'm sure it's garbage , but are there any quality made power supplies anyone can think of with comparable specs? I've looked at Meanwell, but they seem to be more limited in voltage range.
bogus power supply?
- Thread starter Shunt
- Start date
Secondhand Sorensen or TDK et al on eBay.
e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sorensen-DCS33-33EM1-DC-Power-Supply-0-33V-0-33A/293189674364
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This is cheap Chinese but apparently OK if you keep a spare handy, try not to push its limits
https://www.google.com/search?q=dps5020+power+supply+communications
Review here: https://lygte-info.dk/review/Power%20DPS5020-USB%20UK.html
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High-end hobby chargers like Graupner, FMA PowerLab, iCharger 4010-Duo give lots of features, at a price of course.
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In general, just getting PSUs that cover a narrower range are better bang for the buck if you need a lot of amps. But def want good current limiting, check datasheets carefully.
Mean Well HLG series, 600W "A" for adjustable, highly recommended.
In the 48V nominal arena, super quality and high powered gear for industry, rack server rooms & telecom are all over cheap as chips.
e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sorensen-DCS33-33EM1-DC-Power-Supply-0-33V-0-33A/293189674364
____
This is cheap Chinese but apparently OK if you keep a spare handy, try not to push its limits
https://www.google.com/search?q=dps5020+power+supply+communications
Review here: https://lygte-info.dk/review/Power%20DPS5020-USB%20UK.html
____
High-end hobby chargers like Graupner, FMA PowerLab, iCharger 4010-Duo give lots of features, at a price of course.
____
In general, just getting PSUs that cover a narrower range are better bang for the buck if you need a lot of amps. But def want good current limiting, check datasheets carefully.
Mean Well HLG series, 600W "A" for adjustable, highly recommended.
In the 48V nominal arena, super quality and high powered gear for industry, rack server rooms & telecom are all over cheap as chips.
dustNbone
10 kW
If you're intending to charge batteries with it, I'd recommend staying a decent margin below it's maximum power rating, but I don't think that's what a 0-60V supply is intended for.
Depends on the chemistry, your desired charge profile, and how you ensure you stop the cycle before doing any harm.
If just charging **to** a voltage, Bulk/CC only little to no Absorb/CV, a simple HV alarm or cutoff, or even a timer can help automate that.
If just charging **to** a voltage, Bulk/CC only little to no Absorb/CV, a simple HV alarm or cutoff, or even a timer can help automate that.
Well my initial pack will be 56.7v charged at 4.05 , but I'd like to be able to charge my daughter's 10s pack with it as well, if I can find one that has that much variance in adjustment. Both will be 7p , so if I can find one that will do 10 amps at 56.7v and turn it down to do 10amps at 40.5 ,that would be amazing. I realize that may not be realistic. As far as terminating the charge, I will do it manually. Probably using a timer for the first 75% or so then keep tabs on it for the rest of the charge.
dustNbone
10 kW
Not necessarily, I'm just assuming that it's an adjustable "bench" type power supply, normally used for electronics work. The kind with a digital readout and "Current" and "Voltage" knobs. You mentioned it being 0-60V, that's why I made that assumption.
These are generally not going to like running at their maximum rated power for hours on end, especially if they're more "budget" oriented.
The fact that they run across such a wide range of voltage means they're probably not very efficient, which means more waste heat per watt output. It's the components that have to shed that waste heat that are most likely to be the point of failure.
If you are going to use a supply like that to charge batteries for hours at a time, I'd suggest lowering the current setting so that it's not trying to put out it's maximum 300W, then it will probably be ok. But not a very good long term solution for regular charging.
These are generally not going to like running at their maximum rated power for hours on end, especially if they're more "budget" oriented.
The fact that they run across such a wide range of voltage means they're probably not very efficient, which means more waste heat per watt output. It's the components that have to shed that waste heat that are most likely to be the point of failure.
If you are going to use a supply like that to charge batteries for hours at a time, I'd suggest lowering the current setting so that it's not trying to put out it's maximum 300W, then it will probably be ok. But not a very good long term solution for regular charging.
dustNbone said:
Yeh, I don't really care what form factor it is. I would be cool with a din rail type unit if it can do what I need, but your points about efficiency are what I was afraid would be the case. Its worth digging around for, but I wont get my hopes up.
All this is 100% bog standard.Shunt said:
The only challenge is your budget.
Again, at high power, it will be cheaper to get PSUs or chargers dedicated to that narrower voltage range.
Unless you luck out on an eBay auction for a solid industrial lab-quality like Sorensen.
Or try the cheap Chinese unit I linked to.
Not true, just a question of build quality and budget.dustNbone said:
As you say, run at a current below max. Also headroom on the voltage is good.
A cheap chinese unit may need replacing, but if it costs 10% of a Sorenson, so what?
Of course just buy a new Sorenson if you're wealthy.
Another path to investigate is a cheap telecom PSU for high current capacity (but downward adjustable) at a fixed voltage, and then DC-DC converters to get to other voltages.
Or the hobby chargers I mentioned above.
I have a giant Sorenson (and several smaller older ones) lab PSU, and it's great for doing testing with, but it's huge and bulky, not transportable.
On the SB Cruiser trike itself, I use a single Meanwell HLG-600H-54A to charge my 14s2p 40Ah EIG NMC pack at about 12A. It's built into the trike; all I have to do is plug any extension cord from the trike's input jack to the wall, and off I go. I like them because they're sealed and fanless so will survive about any weather/riding conditions I'll encounter in Phoenix city riding. Been on there for...2 years? Can't remember for sure now. Survived one serious drenching that submerged that part of the trike completely (would've drowned any fan-cooled charger).
(it can also use either 220/240VAC or 110VAC, autoswitching, so if I had the right cord for that with me I could charge at any regular outlet--I don't carry a 220/240 cord because there are at least a handful of common types, but only one common 110/115 type)
I have three more of them that could be paralleled and/or seriesed to charge faster or to charge a higher voltage pack.
They don't adjust from zero to max voltage, but they do adjust from zero to max current. The voltage range is more than wide enough to deal with most battery pack charging, if you start with a model that is close to your pack's final charge voltage.
On the SB Cruiser trike itself, I use a single Meanwell HLG-600H-54A to charge my 14s2p 40Ah EIG NMC pack at about 12A. It's built into the trike; all I have to do is plug any extension cord from the trike's input jack to the wall, and off I go. I like them because they're sealed and fanless so will survive about any weather/riding conditions I'll encounter in Phoenix city riding. Been on there for...2 years? Can't remember for sure now. Survived one serious drenching that submerged that part of the trike completely (would've drowned any fan-cooled charger).
(it can also use either 220/240VAC or 110VAC, autoswitching, so if I had the right cord for that with me I could charge at any regular outlet--I don't carry a 220/240 cord because there are at least a handful of common types, but only one common 110/115 type)
I have three more of them that could be paralleled and/or seriesed to charge faster or to charge a higher voltage pack.
They don't adjust from zero to max voltage, but they do adjust from zero to max current. The voltage range is more than wide enough to deal with most battery pack charging, if you start with a model that is close to your pack's final charge voltage.
Yes. I can have the Satiator at 130w (16.4v @ 8A) charging the lighting pack at the same time as the HLG is charging the traction pack at just under 600w (57.8v @ 12A), run the shed and outdoor lighting and *just* not pop the 15A breaker it's all plugged into.Shunt said:
Yeah, if you've got the money it's a good unit, and can be seriesed and paralleled for more voltage and current, and IP67 rated; it certainly survived conditions on SB Cruiser that other things haven't on my bikes and trikes.
THe Cycle Satiator from http://ebikes.ca is also good, but it's about twice as much money for half the charging power, if that's important to you. It's value comes from the programability and support, since it's designed to be a charger. It has preset features that you can program that make it more easily useful than the HLG, and it has auto disconnect at whatever cutoff current you've set for when the pack is full. (you can get modules to do that for the HLGs..but that's extra parts and theyr'e *not* sealed like the HLG is).
I don't have any links or details, but I think Jonyjoe posted about them in various threads, as have others. Dunno what they're called, maybe "relay board" would pull them up?
Basically they're generic modules from China that use a relay to shut off the output at a preprogrammed point, be that voltage, current, whatever that unit is made for.
Basically they're generic modules from China that use a relay to shut off the output at a preprogrammed point, be that voltage, current, whatever that unit is made for.
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