how do you solder without seeing?

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want to build

100 W
Joined
May 18, 2018
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291
hi
i ask the community for if they know pure nickel sheet that fit the ebike case and holder but i received not answers...

So... from what i understand , people use 7 or 8 mm 0.15 pure nickel strips.

OK... but how to you guys know that you are weldining all 4 points on the positive circle and not 3 on the positif and oups one on the negatif surrounding enveloppe.?

Does it existe sloted strips?

i need to see where the the positive end is before adventuring is a welding. dont you ?

plz explain me what i missed hhahaha
 
You need to do some test tab welding and take pliers and see how strong the tab welds are. I have seen some strips with the slot you speak of and others without, you put one electrode on one side of the slot and the other electrode on the other side of the slot. Makes for a more secure weld.
 
want to build said:
OK... but how to you guys know that you are weldining all 4 points on the positive circle and not 3 on the positif and oups one on the negatif surrounding enveloppe.?
Click to expand...

Oh, you'd know that right away.
 
Balmorhea said:
want to build said:
OK... but how to you guys know that you are weldining all 4 points on the positive circle and not 3 on the positif and oups one on the negatif surrounding enveloppe.?
Click to expand...

Oh, you'd know that right away.
Click to expand...

do you mean it would spark for couples seconds?
 
markz said:
You need to do some test tab welding and take pliers and see how strong the tab welds are. I have seen some strips with the slot you speak of and others without, you put one electrode on one side of the slot and the other electrode on the other side of the slot. Makes for a more secure weld.
Click to expand...

Hi i aggre it is good to test the welds to see how strong they are but my questions is more about geolocalisation . how do people know where to weld if the positive circle is covered by the nickel tab?

Are you saying you have seen pure nickel tab with slots on them ? any link plz
 
i imagine that you are making a joke cause i do not have ultrasound refraction reading equipment.

but if you want to help for real maybe you could tell me how you deal with it and the tab you use
 
It was a bad joke. I remember welds being x-rayed, costly. To test welds you preform them on test materials and then pull them apart to see how the weld is doing. Then try to be constant.
 
ZeroEm said:
It was a bad joke. I remember welds being x-rayed, costly. To test welds you preform them on test materials and then pull them apart to see how the weld is doing. Then try to be constant.
Click to expand...

my question is not about solidity of the weld! it is about finding how can i aim straight on everytime on positive end without ever falling on the negative enveloppe.
 
want to build said:
Balmorhea said:
want to build said:
OK... but how to you guys know that you are weldining all 4 points on the positive circle and not 3 on the positif and oups one on the negatif surrounding enveloppe.?
Click to expand...

Oh, you'd know that right away.
Click to expand...

do you mean it would spark for couples seconds?
Click to expand...

Shorting a high energy cell makes a lot of heat. Whether that's smoke, glowing hot metal, sparks, or plasma, kind of depends on the cell.
 
ok but there must be a way to buy already sloted nickel 70 cell battery case holder

guessing where is the positive circle under is a weird technique i dont see myself doing . too uncertain
 
There are rings made of fish paper (or something like that) you can put on the positive ends of the cell to insulate the rest of the case.
 
Balmorhea said:
There are rings made of fish paper (or something like that) you can put on the positive ends of the cell to insulate the rest of the case.
Click to expand...

it is true but still i like to minimise de risks.
what pur nickel strip do you use and seller if possible just to see
 
If you fear you'll be unable to hit only the positive part of the battery when welding, maybe a kit like vruzend is better for you? I've personally built my 14s8p with it and it worked really well. Sure it gets a bit larger, but it's a welding-free option, and replacing cells or reconfigureing the pack if needed is really easy.
 
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