Bosch power pack BMS raplacement? Can it be done?

SwampDonkey

100 W
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Mar 27, 2018
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I have an old Bosch power pack. Id like to gut it and replace the cells and BMS.

Its from a Haibike. Will the pack work like normal with a common 10S ebay BMS? I have a few laying around.

Thanks!

Edit: I mean will the bike run as normal with a battery with an aftermarket BMS?
 
Probably not work as there most likely is a communication protocol as its a consumer product that they want to limit their liability which is the biggest reasons why they do proprietary systems for consumer safety and liability.

SwampDonkey said:
I have an old Bosch power pack. Id like to gut it and replace the cells and BMS.

Its from a Haibike. Will the pack work like normal with a common 10S ebay BMS? I have a few laying around.

Thanks!

Edit: I mean will the bike run as normal with a battery with an aftermarket BMS?
 
calab said:
Probably not work as there most likely is a communication protocol as its a consumer product that they want to limit their liability which is the biggest reasons why they do proprietary systems for consumer safety and liability.

SwampDonkey said:
I have an old Bosch power pack. Id like to gut it and replace the cells and BMS.

Its from a Haibike. Will the pack work like normal with a common 10S ebay BMS? I have a few laying around.

Thanks!

Edit: I mean will the bike run as normal with a battery with an aftermarket BMS?

So the bike is dead without an identical battery?
 
Post a pic of the output of the battery and the connection on the bike side,

Most scooter batteries have tx, rx (not sure I got the acronyms right, canbus????) on the battery port.
 
I would say that since bosch is a big company with a need to protect its reputation you are most likely shitout of luck. This is one of the reasons why some people stay well well away from those types of companies and build their own ebikes, escooters, emotorbikes.

SwampDonkey said:
So the bike is dead without an identical battery?
 
Do some research in German. Use Google Chrome for live translation. There is a lot regarding this topic:
- https://ebike-workshop.com/2020/08/14/bosch-bms/
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYDWzqU7RPo
 
I made this wiring diagram, to understand how to wire everything up.

Detach: B+ → Balancer [6p] → Balancer [7p] → B-
Attach: B- → B+ → Balancer [7p] → Balancer [6p]




I was able to spot-weld my own mini-pack for testing purposes and successfully hooked it up, like described. Works! :lol:
 
I have repaired several faulty Bosch PowerPack 500 BMSs to working order. I am also interested in the Bosch BMS and the CAN protocol and I have spent many hours on google translate!

Tomblarom - Did you make your test rig to study the CAN protocol? Do you mind me asking what your intentions are?

Swampdonky - If you need a working Bosch Powerpack BMS for building your own pack, I could possibly see about selling you just the BMS if you are intertested in one?

thanks,
Oli.
 
I made this wiring diagram, to understand how to wire everything up.

Detach: B+ → Balancer [6p] → Balancer [7p] → B-
Attach: B- → B+ → Balancer [7p] → Balancer [6p]




I was able to spot-weld my own mini-pack for testing purposes and successfully hooked it up, like described. Works! :lol:
Hi there,am just wandering if you could help me out.ive got a bms circuit board out of my bosch 500 power pack.the regulator ic is burned out.Do you no the part number for this so I can buy another
 

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I have an old Bosch power pack. Id like to gut it and replace the cells and BMS.

Its from a Haibike. Will the pack work like normal with a common 10S ebay BMS? I have a few laying around.

Thanks!

Edit: I mean will the bike run as normal with a battery with an aftermarket BMS?
Bosch bms is patented German tech. is a very perfect system. but 99,99% not repairable. only Bosch team can do repair..
Protecting a brand against outside repair, is to prevent bad repairs that could cause bad reputation to company..

Soo trust a Bosch dealer to do your repair..(they will tell you to buy new Bosch battery at 99,99% of cases)
or try some dirty tricks to hack & mess w/ tha intelligent Bosch bms (this bms is very intelligent, doesnt like repairs..)
do you trust at hacked electronic devices or your prefer to be at the safe side getting a brad new device & doin unboxing? :unsure:
if your ebike doesn't need any intelligent battery.. soo a regular bms works fine.. but nowdays most ebikes are gettin smarter, and batteries as well, soo repairing intelligent stuff becomes more difficult..

PS: i don't know bosch team and i'm not doin any marketing to them.
if anyone has a tested fixing solution to that issue, post it here:
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Bosch bms to opatentowana niemiecka technologia. to bardzo doskonały system. ale na 99,99% nie do naprawy. naprawę może wykonać tylko zespół Bosch..
Ochrona marki przed naprawami zewnętrznymi polega na zapobieganiu złym naprawom, które mogłyby spowodować złą reputację firmy.

Zaufaj zatem dealerowi Bosch, który wykona Twoją naprawę... (w 99,99% przypadków powie Ci, abyś kupił nowy akumulator Bosch)
lub wypróbuj kilka brudnych sztuczek, aby zhakować i bałaganić w inteligentnym Bosch bms (ten bms jest bardzo inteligentny, nie lubi napraw..)
czy ufasz zhakowanym urządzeniom elektronicznym, czy wolisz być bezpieczny, kupując nowe urządzenie i rozpakowując je?:niepewny:
jeśli Twój e-rower nie potrzebuje żadnej inteligentnej baterii.. więc zwykły bms działa dobrze.. ale obecnie większość e-rowerów jest coraz inteligentniejsza, podobnie jak baterie, więc naprawianie inteligentnych rzeczy staje się trudniejsze..

PS: nie znam zespołu Bosch i nie prowadzę z nim żadnych działań marketingowych.
jeśli ktoś ma przetestowane rozwiązanie tego problemu, opublikuj je tutaj:
-->>
-- >>
-- >>
 
this perfect patented crap breaks down perfectly, you're right. you say to trust the Bosch dealer 🤣 and that they will fix something 🤣🤣🤣. these bms are an overcomplicated mockery, and those in powertube are a total engineering failure. These batteries are so perfect that I repair them in bulk because no idiot from the service center can do anything, let alone repair them, apart from the text that you need to buy a new battery.
 
this perfect patented crap breaks down perfectly, you're right. you say to trust the Bosch dealer 🤣 and that they will fix something 🤣🤣🤣. these bms are an overcomplicated mockery, and those in powertube are a total engineering failure. These batteries are so perfect that I repair them in bulk because no idiot from the service center can do anything, let alone repair them, apart from the text that you need to buy a new battery.
so you mean it won't be like specialized's battery will lock the bms?if i tear down the cell from the battery and change it,it will still works?
 
so you mean it won't be like specialized's battery will lock the bms?if i tear down the cell from the battery and change it,it will still works?
the order of disconnecting and connecting the bms is important, in the powerpack you first unplug the small balancer plug, the large balancer plug and finally B+, after repairing or fully regenerating the pack, connect B+ (the bms will light up with the previous charging state), then the large balancer plug and the small balancer plug. you plug it into the charger and it runs.
in general, I invite you to Poland, I sell regenerated powerpacks 500 and 460wh for 250 and 200 €, Samsung cells 35e or 32e
 
Hi guys, would you please clarify the detach & attach sequences.

Popiol83's secuence according to his post is:​

the order of disconnecting and connecting the bms is important,
in the powerpack you first unplug
the small balancer plug,
the large balancer plug
and finally B+,
----------------
Detach Sequence:
the small balancer plug
the large balancer plug
finally B+

after repairing or fully regenerating the pack,
connect B+ (the bms will light up with the previous charging state),
then the large balancer plug and the small balancer plug.
----------------
Attach sequence:
first B+
the large balancer plug
the small balancer plug

Whereas Tomblarom's sequence according to his post is:​

Detach: B+ → Balancer [6p] → Balancer [7p] → B-
Attach: B- → B+ → Balancer [7p] → Balancer [6p]

With Popiol83 the detach sequence finishes with "finally B+", whereas with Tomplaroom finishes with the B-.

I have two dead batteries on my hands and am not willing to just fork the amount that Bosch is charging for yet another new battery that can die at any moment without a warning.

Thanks a lot.
 
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This is relevant as well:

Used The following successfully to replace a faulty board with a working one.

Detach Sequence:
B-
the small balancer plug (6p)
the large balancer plug (7p)
B+

----------------
Attach sequence:
B-
B+
the large balancer plug (7p)
the small balancer plug (6p)

The battery can be safely opened, without breaking any the securing plastic clips or causing a damage to the plastic parts, when using woodworking clamps or a vise to squeeze the top part, starting from the front and slowly moving backwards, whilst undoing all clips by pulling the two body parts apart.
 
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Hi guys, would you please clarify the detach & attach sequences.

Popiol83's secuence according to his post is:​

the order of disconnecting and connecting the bms is important,
in the powerpack you first unplug
the small balancer plug,
the large balancer plug
and finally B+,
----------------
Detach Sequence:
the small balancer plug
the large balancer plug
finally B+

after repairing or fully regenerating the pack,
connect B+ (the bms will light up with the previous charging state),
then the large balancer plug and the small balancer plug.
----------------
Attach sequence:
first B+
the large balancer plug
the small balancer plug

Whereas Tomblarom's sequence according to his post is:​

Detach: B+ → Balancer [6p] → Balancer [7p] → B-
Attach: B- → B+ → Balancer [7p] → Balancer [6p]

With Popiol83 the detach sequence finishes with "finally B+", whereas with Tomplaroom finishes with the B-.

I have two dead batteries on my hands and am not willing to just fork the amount that Bosch is charging for yet another new battery that can die at any moment without a warning.

Thanks a lot.
The sequence doesn't seem to matter that much, as I always have disconnected the small connector first, then the large.
Only then the B+ and B-.
Over 100 pcs done this way.
 
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I have repaired several faulty Bosch PowerPack 500 BMSs to working order. I am also interested in the Bosch BMS and the CAN protocol and I have spent many hours on google translate!

Tomblarom - Did you make your test rig to study the CAN protocol? Do you mind me asking what your intentions are?

Swampdonky - If you need a working Bosch Powerpack BMS for building your own pack, I could possibly see about selling you just the BMS if you are intertested in one?

thanks,
Oli.
Hey. Do you have a spare bms for power pack 500?
 
Theres a noticable spark (shunt) when reconnecting power to the board. For risk of damage to the balance wires, they are always the 1st thing I remove & the last thing I attach.
 
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