NEW FLEXVOLT 20-60V dewalt battery

Doctorbass

100 GW
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
7,495
Location
Quebec, Canada East
look interesting and promissing for ebikes!

[youtube]NlJZL3ZrIwo[/youtube]

Doc
 
The saw sucks though, blade on the right.
 
Interesting. Are they using a typical welded cell group with a pcb to change series to parallel, or ia it something else?

I do find pretty much all cordless tools a gimmick except a drill/impact. Anything else has and is still well worth keeping a sturdy and reliable AC tool, and just drag out the cord. More specialized work benefits from more specialized (and thus expensive) tools though.

Speaking of which, we may never know (?) why so many saws but blade on the side that would suit a left hander better. Like pretty much all AC non-geared circular saws.
 
Been a union carpenter for 33 years.....blade is on the right so it keeps the chips from blowing in your face. You look over the saw. When cutting a bevel it gives you a better view to see the blade. I guess some like it, some don't. I prefer the standard box saw and only use a left handed saw for doing stairs with exposed tread and riser. I don't like worm drives.

Tom
 
Hmm, my arm is kind of offset from my face. But there are people with weird shaped bodies.

But it's true, with a worm drive you do tend to cut using just the left eye, squinting or closing the right. If no eye protection, that's foolish on any job. I've had nail gun nails hit my lens. And a smart guy sets up the cutting station with the wind blowing from the left.

I just like seeing the blade on the cut myself, since a notch on the saw table is at least 2 inches from the blade. The blade bends this way and that on a long rip, and to cut to 1/16th inch without spending a lot of time setting up a rip guide. I have seen a window you can see the blade through on some saws, but not most non worm drives.

I'm not a union guy, the jobs I worked paid a lot less, had to be done at a lot less cost in man hours. So getting er done fast as possible without making sucky cuts meant worm drive, for 100% of the carpenters I spent a lifetime working with. Do hate lugging that thing around if you don't have to. Really liked a much lighter porter cable blade on the left saw for cross cuts.

You are right about bevel cuts. for an 8' bevel cut rip, we would break out a table saw.
 
I think we all got the same amount of time to complete the job.....pay was just different. I think both Union and non Union have there merits.....and negatives. One thing for sure, they can not build without us!

See ya brother!
 
wineboyrider said:
The tool lines look impressive too. How many wh's and prices?

15 cells * 3.7v = 111 Whrs

It's $150 at home depot. Quite expensive.

It must have mosfets that switch the pack into series mode vs parallel mode based upon the power tools battery prongs.
 
Funny they bothered to have the added complexity. It's precisely the same power available in a brush less power tool you get to design yourself at 5s or 15s. 5s is just a more simple low cost BMS in trade for a few cents of thicker wiring for a few inches.
 
Might be a stupid question but is it 6ah @ 60v or 20v?
Can't you use one of those power regulators that lets you mess with the voltage. By lowering the voltage you get more amps? Or does that not increase the AH?
 
Blueshift said:
Might be a stupid question but is it 6ah @ 60v or 20v?
Can't you use one of those power regulators that lets you mess with the voltage. By lowering the voltage you get more amps? Or does that not increase the AH?

They have 15cells each 2Ah.

When configured all in a 1p15s group it's 60v 2Ah.

When it's configured in a 3p5s group it's 20v 6Ah.

Both configurations offer identical power and energy etc.
 
Blueshift said:
Can't you use one of those power regulators that lets you mess with the voltage. By lowering the voltage you get more amps? Or does that not increase the AH?
You just lose energy by inefficiency of conversion to heat. Probably anywhere from 20-50% or more of it, depending on how badly designed the converter is and whether you're using it in whatever it's most efficient zone is.
 
Bison_69 said:
Hi DoctorBass,

Have you seen those new power tools from Canadian Tire lately... they works on 80V...
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/g...s-cordless-lawn-mower-21-in-0601702p.html#srp
http://www.greenworkstools.ca/

144wh that's not enough to do anything with on a bike, especially at that price. Unless you just want an electric lawnmower then i guess its ok.

That is coming from a guy who uses greenworks 40v 4ah packs for my battery now. I used to have 12ah (6 packs)but now i only use 4 pack at 20s8ah. It is decent and gets me about 8-10 miles or so. But 4p is not enough for the chinese cells they were using before. I wouldn't rate them over 3C, i used to have a spec sheet but it was years ago.

I was looking into the dcb404 packs 40v 4ah but Dewalt uses much more powerful 18650 cells usually name brand 10C rated. I may try them again if the price is right when I take the plunge.
 
skeetab5780 said:
144wh that's not enough to do anything with on a bike, especially at that price.
I dunno about the price, but 144wh would get even my heavy SB Cruiser trike thru my whole work commute there and back (a bit less than 5 miles), even if there is some wind, with between 40-45Wh/mile most of the time.

It wouldn't be enough to do it with both dogs as passengers on it and the trailer, not quite, as that is more like 60Wh/mile (or more).

(but this would only be if it can handle up to 80A repeatedly)
 
Its 144wh at 20s if it was at 10s it would be a different story. You wouldnt buy 80v 2ah batteries to take them apart and make a lower voltage that would be weird

Id get about 3 miles with that on my 12-fet. I have range anxiety with a 10ah pack so your not gonna convince me 144wh is enough
 
liveforphysics said:
Funny they bothered to have the added complexity. It's precisely the same power available in a brush less power tool you get to design yourself at 5s or 15s. 5s is just a more simple low cost BMS in trade for a few cents of thicker wiring for a few inches.

They did it to use more powerful motors, more efficient controllers, and lower resistive losses for a given power output. At the motor itself, sure, torque is just a function of current, but everywhere else higher voltage improves efficiency and reduces heat. Otherwise they could just run all the cells in parallel and ditch the BMS altogether.
 
The 12ah 60v battery is interesting. The mechanical isolation might allow you to fly with it. It's shipped as 3x 80 whr batteries, I believe. Do we think it uses Samsung 40t cells?
 
Realizing that this is kind of pointless since you can just fly with LiPo batteries, at least in the US. For example, American lets you fly with up to 4 batteries under 100 whr in your carry on. So, likely easier and cheaper to just get 4 LiPo batteries, as close as possible to 100 whr and then you can have close to 400 whr total.

Good example: 5S 5000 mah battery. 4 in series gets you 20S (74V) and 5Ah, good enough for 20 miles easy range or so on a scooter or something, if you stick to 20 mph.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-5000mah-5s-25c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html
 
Back
Top