Power Tool Battery Packs Question

Hello,
My Question, about Power tool packs
Most seem to be lower in voltage than the standard Controller
Like all the 20V packs I see around and priced very well
Like the HF Earthquake and Bauer packs
So what I'm questioning is-
Would it be better to add a cell to get closer to the 24V a 24V controller would want ?
OR, is there a way to mod the controllers to be 20V ?
Can either of these be done and work ?

OR

Should I just use two, (2S) and have 41ish volts and use a 36V controller ??
or would a 48V controller be able to use the 41V packs ?
Or use three packs, (3S) and have 60+V and use a 48V controller ?

Sorry if this is just crazy talk but I don't see any battery systems around that I can buy better than these
Tool packs.

What I do know-
I've got one Tool pack, a "Hilti" ,"B 18/3.3 Li-ion"
Back of pack were the gauge is, 18+ Volt
But, this pack shows 24+ volts not hot off the charger, just it's standard volts sitting around
This pack is over 7 years old and I run it on a razor E90, (12v 80watt)
that i have worked up a bit with bigger front wheel but only using an old drill trigger as throttle
having to run wires up to the trigger and back isn't helping range at all
But this set up goes about 16 mph and is enough to hurt you if your doing something wrong
{don't ask why I know}. 8)

Thanks for looking

You could use Lowes' Kobalt 24V or 40V tool packs to get closer to 24 or 36 volts.

FYI Home Depot has a sale going for 2X 9Ah 18V batteries for $139. That will build an 9Ah 36V battery.

Well,
Thanks for the info on other EXPENSIVE packs.

Back to what I asked about-

So I guess nobody here knows about modifying
the cheap china controllers ??

OK,
I think that I'll just go for the 2S packs to get about 40 volts
and try to use a 36 volt controller and see what happens.
( I have done one of these for a friend and it seems to work for his set up, so far)
(it was a 24V brushed motor on a Blade Z XTR 250 lite, that I have a twin of)
{ And why I'm asking about stuff so I can also get running to whip him racing}
{ should be easy, he is a lot more load to carry and I've been riding on Go-ped type stuff for years}
[ all my Go-Peds ran off gas and made to much noise, that is unwanted and unpleasant,
and loud enough to draw to much attention and get the cops called. So I parked them for good ! ]
They only asked me to slow down and keep it down, not getting any called on me but,
Every cop I talked to said the same thing,
"we answer complaints", so I took that as a, DON"T GET sign !!!!

Just switching to electric stuff now and all my early builds so far are: :lol:

Razor E90, stock 12v 80 Watt
Running 24V, same motor with larger front wheel off of an Electric Punk. Also a Razor.

The E Punk is ready to go, waiting on Battery pack. (wanted to use 24V but will try 36 at 41V)
Has extended front end with 12" solid rim air filled wheel suspended with spring forks
And a 10" fat Go ped FREEWHEELing air filled band brake rear wheel extended to fit
also suspended with 2 extra spring type shocks totaling 3 in the rear
Using stock adjustable for belt motor mount with an extra plate to switch from
the stock 80 watt to a test 150 watt before I try the 300 watt that fits the same hole pattern as the 150.
I tried to leave all the stock collapsible, and foldable design there to have something easy to store and transport.
It feels real good when sitting on it feeling the suspension drop a little,
should be fine with the added weight of a battery system, being I made it adjustable. 8)

And have waiting
Blade Z XTR 250 lite
Razor E100,(guest ride maybe)
And a HUGE motor from a Remington Electric Battery powered lawn mower that had a full size blade on it.
Also the,
S2000, "SOLAR SCOOTER"
A factory solar assist charging handicap scooter
That has a 750 watt motor but lacks suspension
and any kind of coolness.
LOL

Thanks

johnnyfoos said:

Would it be better to add a cell to get closer to the 24V a 24V controller would want ?

Click to expand...

No; that would lose all the advantages of using an off the shelf pack.

OR, is there a way to mod the controllers to be 20V ?

Click to expand...

Sure. Change the LVC resistor network. Your performance will suffer of course.

Should I just use two, (2S) and have 41ish volts and use a 36V controller ??
or would a 48V controller be able to use the 41V packs ?
Or use three packs, (3S) and have 60+V and use a 48V controller ?

Click to expand...

All are better ideas. Hard to get much power out of 20V. There are also a lot of 60V packs available.

I've got one Tool pack, a "Hilti" ,"B 18/3.3 Li-ion"
Back of pack were the gauge is, 18+ Volt
But, this pack shows 24+ volts not hot off the charger, just it's standard volts sitting around

Click to expand...

?? Right. Li ion is 3.6v nominal, 4.2v after charge. Voltage will often be higher.

Most "nominal" 18V / 20V packs are five lithium cells in series. Short lifetime tools use a 2.8V-to- 4.2V profile from empty to full. The nominal "average" voltage is 3.7V per cell.

That means that if you use 4.2V as the top charge, 5S = 21.0V, which is within the proper range of a nominal 24V system (19.6V to 29.4V). It will 'work", but...you will have very short range.

I haven't found any 48V lithium cordless tool packs, but...you can find 24V, 36V, and 14S packs (called 56V and 58V by retailers, EGO/Echo). My advice for using cordless tool packs is to use EGO 56V. If you'd rather not use them, my next recommendation is the 58V Echo packs, but....EGO and Echo are the same voltage in real life, 14S lithium.