60V E 300 Hub Motor Project Underway

detrailers

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Jan 24, 2019
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Greets all. I'm getting ready to build a batt for my Hyper Racing scooter. Currently its a 16s which gives me a max V of 67.2. Hyper advertises these as 60v. Would it be ok to overvolt to 17s or would I possibly damage the controller or motor
 
detrailers said:
Greets all. I'm getting ready to build a batt for my Hyper Racing scooter. Currently its a 16s which gives me a max V of 67.2. Hyper advertises these as 60v. Would it be ok to overvolt to 17s or would I possibly damage the controller or motor
Most controllers rated for 60V are rated that because they use 60V FETs and 63V capacitors. Or perhaps 75V FETs for margin. You'd have to open it up and look at the components. You care about the input caps, the FETs and the housekeeping regulator; those are the three things generally exposed to full battery voltage.
 
Yeah, you might be best to look into a new controller once you do go bigger, and then go for 72v at least. Get into the range where you get the fun of melting motors. 8) Assuming of course, the races are not over 10 miles, or 40 min of time.
 
Bought this kit to upgrade my E300, does anyone know what I could expect as far as amp draw for the 60w unit

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/brhZuayo
 
:lol: Caught me looking to see a 60 watt motor. Now who would want that I ask myself... :lol:

But a 60 volt, 1000watt motor...

Watts= Volts times Amps

So Watts divided by Voltage is the amperage.

So Amps would be ~16.7. This is at your battery's nominal voltage.
 
lol thats what i meant thx Tommy
 
Dropped pan 2" to accomodate bigger batt and controller, still have 2" ground clearance. Also had to rework rear frame upright to accommodate disc and cally. Next up ill be making the mount for caliper and welding up unused holes and then final weld and grind and off to powdercoat.
 

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Mine arrived slightly damaged and missing brake cable and throttle plug was incompatible with controller plug. Bought it from vendor on AliExpress and fortunately got a partial refund because Ali does cover your ass. Haven't had a chance to hook it up yet but was finishing the fab on the frame today and will be going to powdercoat soon....
 
Metal work done. Added a gusset for the brake mount since kinda need brakes.... welded up un used holes, stripped and off to powder coat...
 

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Greets,

My 60v lipo hub motor conversion is almost done. One thing, it is too quick off the line, I'm thinking maybe it's the thumb throttle, seems like about a half inch of nothing when you push it and then bam!
Would a twist throttle maybe be a bit more manageable??
 

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Unlikely to be the throttle, can check by putting a multi meter on the signal wire and ground for the throttle you should have a voltage that changes from about 1-4V over its full travel. If its a smooth change from 0-100%, not the throttle.

Most likely issue is just a cheaper controller and high power do not mix for fine control. If you want to significantly improve the control a Kelly controller is a great option.
 
Thanks. Hopefully they have one the exact dims lol
 

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Twist throttles are the standard for high power 2 wheelers. Better than thumb in general.

BUT, two main points:

1) you are using a speed control, not torque control, mode in your controller. It is known for exactly this type of behavior. There's likely nothing you can do to fix this part but get another controller. It's worth it. Torque control propels you with the force proportional to how far you pull back. So a little throttle off the line is a very smooth, leisurely start and full throttle will send the bike flying! The best of both worlds!

2) You can reduce phase current. Unless your controller really sucks it should allow you to program this value. NOT battery current.
 
CAv3 gives you very precise user-custom control over ramp-up ratios for whatever throttle type you choose.

Much better than the tuning available from most controllers, and without messing with their overall torque vs speed optimizations.
 
Great info guys thx....should I try a twist grip throttle first??

Who makes the CAv3 & typically how much do they run
 
detrailers said:
Great info guys thx....should I try a twist grip throttle first??

Who makes the CAv3 & typically how much do they run
Grin https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-analyst-3.html

$120?
 
Those are really cool but I have 0 space left to add that
 
It would probably be a lot better if you didn't have as much 'dead zone' in throttle. The very first part of the throttle is less sensitive but if the motor only starts when you are at 1/3 or so, it will be very sensitive and twitchy. Depending on the throttle style, you can place a trimmer resistor in series with the ground line and dial in the start point of the throttle. I've done it on a couple of scooters and it made all the difference.
 
Yeah fechter is right its too much dead zone, you need to adjust the input voltages which almost no-one does

Even cheap throttles work really well when the input voltages are adjusted properly

You can do it with resistor on the ground line of the throttle (beginning dead zone) and resistor on the power line (end dead zone)

Or you can do it through a CA
 
Here is a schematic of how to install the trimmer pot:
You can use a higher value pot like 1k but the final value is usually around 150 ohms. It's best to use a 10-turn pot but you might get by with a single turn.

Hall Throttle Zero Trimmer.jpg

Here's a picture of an install. You can put tape or heat shrink over the pot when finished.

Throttle smoother.jpg

When adjusting, be sure to have the wheel off the ground as the motor may start without giving throttle. To adjust, start with the pot at zero ohms, then slowly adjust until the motor just starts moving, then back off a little to make sure it stops when you let off the throttle.
 
Dead zone has little or nothing to do with this guy's issue, but if he wants to change it the CAv3 will do that without ghetto electronics mods.

Furthermore, slow ramps really suck. You should have the thrust you want, when you want it--not the thrust you don't want, AFTER you request it. I totally agree that he needs a Cycle Analyst but not to screw with his ramp rate.
 
Yes I want to power and I asked for it but not so that it hits so hard it makes the scooter un rideable standing up...

Unfortunately I built the scooter around the current controller and switching controllers would be very difficult, if it would even fit so a "ghetto mod" really might be the only practical choice....
flat tire said:
I Dead zone has little or nothing to do with this guy's issue, but if he wants to change it the CAv3 will do that without ghetto electronics mods.

Furthermore, slow ramps really suck. You should have the thrust you want, when you want it--not the thrust you don't want, AFTER you request it. I totally agree that he needs a Cycle Analyst but not to screw with his ramp rate.
 
I can do this, rookie here so where do I get a pot, what's it's real name and rating, and how do I adjust it. Hard to see in your pic but what wire is that connected to...dont understand schematics too well but looks like it's on one wire.

fechter said:
Here is a schematic of how to install the trimmer pot:
You can use a higher value pot like 1k but the final value is usually around 150 ohms. It's best to use a 10-turn pot but you might get by with a single turn.

Hall Throttle Zero Trimmer.jpg

Here's a picture of an install. You can put tape or heat shrink over the pot when finished.

Throttle smoother.jpg

When adjusting, be sure to have the wheel off the ground as the motor may start without giving throttle. To adjust, start with the pot at zero ohms, then slowly adjust until the motor just starts moving, then back off a little to make sure it stops when you let off the throttle.
 
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