Xcceries/Yescom DD kit with 36v 500w 20 AH Tesla cell battery?

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Oct 24, 2014
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Location
Kansas
For some reason I cannot find many 36v 500w DD kits on Ebay, none from Xcceries or Ebikeling. I would like to for my battery. Maybe they just aren't as sturdy as the 48v 1000w DD's? I am not a heavy rider, so either would suit me fine.

My battery is a newish 30 amp 20 AH Panasonic green cells pack, the seller said for longevity to keep it around 22 amps controller and usually under 800 watts continuous I believe.

My commute is about 8 miles county road, no stops. then a little around town, not much.

Can i pair my battery with the 48v 1000w DD kit and just run the throttle half speed so that I don't wear my battery out? I plan to get RC lipos as soon as possible, but may have to run my existing pack for 2-3 months. They don't say if the kit comes with dual voltage, but I plan to get the LCD option. I have an S-LCD3, but it is stuck on "source 2".

I really like the Yescom/Xcceries kits, as many on here have tried them with good reviews.

Any help is appreciated.
 
If the kit has a programmable current limit (or assist factor), you can avoid overcurrent from the pack.

If the pack has a BMS that's correct for the pack's cells (not always the case), it won't allow you to draw more current than the pack can safely and easily provide, so it will shut off the output if you do.


A 48v kit generally should have an LVC that cuts off battery somewhere around where a 36v pack's HVC is. So not very much of the 36v pack would be used before the controlelr shuts itself off.

So unless the 48v kits you're looking at have adjustable LVC, or no LVC, they may not work with your battery.


Another issue with them is a motor wound to run on 48v at say, 20mph, would only run at 36 / 48 * 20 = 15mph. (so, 75% of the speed of any particular throttle setting).

Secondarily to that, the acceleration will be around 75% of what it would be at 48v.
 
I will be getting a 36v 500w DD, yes that LVC is a problem isn't it? Lol.

The 36v kit is hard to find, and sold out and that's fine. I know their game is geared toward marketing the bigger kit, which is the 48v 1000w kit. That way they can sell also bigger battery packs. And again, that's fine and all.

So they're sold out at yescom, and others. Heck I don't even know compare kits. 22 mph and I will be happy lol.

If there's another US seller of these kits, I sure would like to order one!
 
There is another option I forgot about.

Use the 48v kit, and a 36v battery, and a WangDD (or similar) voltage booster, like Wturber is using over here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90369
 
That is interesting. I do have a badass little beast of a battery, yeah she's got a BMS and she's rated at 30 amps! But of course, for longevity it is recommended to pair up with 22amp controller. And that would be the 500w kit.
 
Lots of fronts on e bay at the moment, rears a bit more hard to find. here is one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Rear-Wheel-36V-500W-Electric-Bicycle-Ebike-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Motor/321679232957?epid=1580882108&hash=item4ae5938fbd:g:~pwAAOSwHb9bwDZM


Re the 20 amps battery and a 1000w kit, if your battery was 48v but weak, you can still run full speed if the battery can handle 20 amps continuous. ( yours is 8 amps? I'm talking hypothetically for others reading. )

Even though the controller is 30 amps, it won't pull 30 at full speed, even uphill. But it will pull that hard on the starts. So if you have a weak battery and want to go easier on it, the best thing is to pedal only the first 20 feet, then get on the throttle gradual. If that is too hard, at least avoid full throttle till going 10 mph.

Another option is to simply buy any kit, then cheaply replace the controller with a 36v 20 amps one.
 
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