$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Icewrench said:
BH or brake high would connect to the pos voltage line to a brake light.

Bl Brake low is a ground signal..

I understand this. I am asking, are the result the same for both BH and BL, which is = power off.
 
They just engage whatever braking method the controller has enabled / programmed, whether that be simply stopping motor operation, or regen, or eabs, or some other thing.
 
amberwolf said:
What votlage does the battery dip down to under the load?

What is the controller's LVC?

If the battery dips below the LVC, and the LVC is correct for a 20s or lower pack, then it is still the battery being unable to handle the load, even though the controller is shutting down because of it.

If the battery does not dip below the LVC, then the controller is shutting down for some ohter reason.

If the LVC is set higher than a 20s pack, then the controller is shutting down early when the pack dips below that point under load, and the controller needs it's LVC changed to match the pack being used.

The LVC is at 62V so there is no risk of reaching this limit because my battery never drops below 72V.
As there is an adjustment knob of LVC I can also put it in position 60V and the result will be the same.
 
Well I found a solution for troubleshooting !!
It reminds me that I use 2 controllers on a single dual stator engine with a single throttle grip.
You can see the schema as an attachment.

I had a doubt but then it is confirmed ... when one of the 2 controllers safely cuts the other holds and can turn the engine to 50% of its power without cutting safely.

I just did a test by disconnecting the battery that powers the controller 2 and it works without interruption even accelerating to 100%.
What's strange too is that the intensity does not go up to 84A but 76 ~ 78A.
The operation is good and starts less jerky, but also less powerful because the engine absorbs 1x78A instead of 2x84A
I found a troubleshooting solution but it does not explain the essence of the problem.
I installed a second accelerator pedal.
I use the throttle pedal controller 1 for starting from 0 to 40km / h and from 40km / h I also actuates the second accelerator pedal to double the power and reach 75km / h.
There is no longer a break and the operation is ok.
On the other hand if I activate the accelerator of the second controller before reaching 40km / h there is a safety cut of the controller 1.
The same thing happens if I do the opposite and I start with the controller 2 and then I accelerate with the controller 1 from 40km / h.
I do not know exactly what is the cause of the problem, it seems to me that this is due to the design of the dual stator motor since the windings have a shift of 30 ° relative to each other.
 

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it is a alternator of Renault Laguna 14V 210A converted into a brushless motor
 

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hello, do you have the schematic of the motherboard?
I want to know how to control the power mosfet.
 
Nice, how did you mount the hall sensros, any other pics?
I don't recall anyone having the schematic for these boards. I am sure their your basic layout. It would be too much work to reverse engineer the pcb board. Some tried to see if the TX and RX pcb points were operational, but not sure if that got anywhere. The SUNWIN controller boards are basic and generic, spit out by the millions and scooped up by resellers to either populate and sell, or sell as is because they get the boards already populated. It could be the sellers can specify a level of quality componentry but I am just speculating.

PITMIX said:
hello, do you have the schematic of the motherboard?
I want to know how to control the power mosfet.
PITMIX said:
it is a alternator of Renault Laguna 14V 210A converted into a brushless motor
 
This is to mount two controllers in parallel on a single motor.
The first controller is driver and the second is slave. It doubles the power using only RJ45 wire. The pilot controller will give the slave mosfets information to work in the same way on both controllers. This has already been done but not on this type of controller.
I found this diagram but it does not correspond to my controllers.
 

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for now traced this on photos
 

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So the second controller brain is bypassed and the signal from the first is fed to the gate driver of the second that amplifys the source signal and drive it's fets with each phase bridged to its corrosponding pair making a 36 fet controller 12 per phase that can get on for 10kw in a pair and not get warm.

But the shunt has to then link both boards to get a true current reading ?
 
Yes that's it. just connect the battery leads and phases in parallel. However, it is necessary to isolate the control by the processor of the slave because otherwise it starts to the mass and does not work.
For shunt this is a very good note but normally the master processor will drive its 18 transistors normally and the signal is simply transmitted in the same way to the other 18 regardless of their Amperage.
 
Sounds interesting, I like the motor choice too lots of power on the cheap top work.
 
Finaly I change this engine because is too hot. When I do a 2km run the engine is to 120°C...
2 stator on 1 motor is not good ! But I have 10kW whith this engine !!
Whith a single stator alternator I have 45°C.
But the power is 4,5kW whith single controller.
If I use dual controller is possible to have 9kW.
I do the diagram to use 2 controllers whith one motor :
 

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slave controller without micro-transistors T4 for + and N5-N4 for -
 

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First connection wires
 

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Hi ! I tested the assembly of 2 controllers in parallel but it does not work.
Mounting works but do not exceed the rated current of a single controller
The driver controller gives the same signal on the mosfets slave but without any control of the intensity. Result when the rated intensity exceeds 80A mosfets explode.
 

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got a 18fet with 4115 fets i plug everything in but nothing happends i checked fets cant find a short i plug in learn connecter some time motor spins up but rare what can be causing problem tested another controller and theres no problems running 72v is there a way to wire up the fault led so i can get fault code from it ?
 
need some help i got a problem with a controller everythings working but throttle tested throttle and its good but when i plug it in to controller i cant get it to work if i short power to digital in pin it works but wont work threw the throttle also the 5v and the negitive are good what can be causeing this problem its a sunwin 36fet 120v controller
 
Hello when you connect learning wire your motor is running ?
 
finally got my rebuilt bike going after almost 9 years.. i had planned on using a kt 72v sine controller but kept getting 03 error.. slapped on the sunwin 72v 15fet "1500w" controller I forgot I had and its working like a charm! rebuilt the original 2011 "48v 1kw" motor with thicker wire, statorade, SKF bearings, and an LM35 temps sensor. running 12x 6s 2650 lipo's in 3s4p arrangement.
 
PITMIX said:
Hello when you connect learning wire your motor is running ?

When you connect learning wire, which can be white wire, 2 single wires connected together, then the motor should spin either the right direction or the wrong direction. Twist the throttle to reverse the direction, or just quickly unhook and hook connection will do the same.
 
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