DIY Solid State Relay

fechter

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There are lots of solid state relays on the market, but most of them only work with AC loads since they use SCRs or Triacs.
SSRs made for DC loads are quite expensive for some reason.

Crydom SSR.JPG

The cheapest ones are around $50usd and many are over $100. Being cheap, I found a way to make my own for quite a bit less and there are several options for the build. These are handy for lots of things and can be used on the positive side of the system just as easily as the negative side. Things like dc-dc converters, lights, horns can all be switched from pack voltage. The input can be driven off the 5v line coming from a throttle or sensor with the right resistor. This allows for using small switches and wires on the handlebars to switch fairly large loads.

The heart of it is an opto coupler with a photovoltaic output. Basically a LED shining on a micro sized solar panel. The good ones also have a circuit that will speed up the turn off. The output of the opto coupler can drive the gate of a FET (or bank of FETs) directly.

I tried a couple different optocouplers and they both work pretty well.
One is a ASSR-V621 which is a dual with 7v output @15uA.
The other was a FDA217, which has a 12v output @ 9uA.

They make single channel chips, but the dual channel ones are about the same price, so why not. With a 2 channel, the channels can be combined to get faster switching speeds or to switch two FETs that are back to back for bidirectional loads.

There are many options in how these can be used. Below is a simple single channel setup for a unidirectional DC load.

SSR unidirectional.jpg

I used a CL2 current limiter chip on the input to keep the emitters at 20mA over a wide voltage range. You could just use a simple resistor if the input voltage is constant. I also show a diode to protect against reverse polarity. This is optional. On my prototype I used a red LED in place of the diode as an indicator.

For bidirectional DC loads, use two FETs back to back with the source pins in parallel.

SSR bidirectional.jpg

I build one on a piece of perforated board for testing.

Img_5354.jpg

This one is using a single IRFB4110 as the FET since I had a bunch lying around. At 20A load, the heat dissipation will be at about the limit for this package without a heat sink. Adding a heat sink would allow for higher load currents. Parallel FETs could also be used, but will have slower switching times.

With the single 4110 FET, I measured the turn-on time to be about 1.5mS, which is pretty slow. Turn-off time is much faster, about 50uS due to the turn-off circuitry inside the opto coupler. What this means is you can't use it for high speed switching.

I did some bench testing with a power supply to see if I could blow it up, but it was able to take everything I tried (up to 5A @ 35v). I'll have to try it at higher voltages and loads.

If it all tests out OK, I plan to pot it in epoxy like the expensive boys.
 
If your load is at all inductive - and it will be - you should have a snubber and a flyback diode in your design or the FET won't last very long. You will spike the voltage on turn-off. Commercial SSR's have a bunch of circuitry in them - which does drive up the cost.
 
fechter said:
There are lots of solid state relays on the market, but most of them only work with AC loads since they use SCRs or Triacs.
SSRs made for DC loads are quite expensive for some reason.
A few notes -

DC SSR's have a lot of extra stuff because often that is needed for reliability and safety. For example, high dI/dT with any sort of inductive load can result in high voltages across the FET - so snubbers are often essential to prevent device failure. Fast turn on/turn off is important to prevent catastrophic heating of the device when turning on into a capacitance, so there is often circuitry on the gate to ensure that on/off is as fast as possible.

Also, you don't need both PV optocouplers in your nonpolar example, although it certainly won't hurt.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, this design would not be good for an inductive load without some kind of freewheel diode or snubber.
Using FETs with lots of voltage rating head room will help. For something like lighting on a bike, it think it will handle the load. I was looking at something for the brake lights on my Sur-ron, which take more than the brake lever switches can handle. It's all 12v.
 
Thanks for your valuable contribution. If the relay I just bought on ebay was over $50 I would probably make one myself.
Just got mine the other day from ebay for $11.72:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-25A-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-DC-DC-Input-3-32V-DC-Load-5-220V-DC-DD220D25/371887241683?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item569634f9d3:g:XksAAOSwPyBZsL9Y&enc=AQADAAACIKX%2FKt4E1xf3SDqEdBclaYbCu95hsY1jHPPv%2BsZnuXb0v45dYYd6zC0oPPN8ga1nKBjqd6Mj%2BUFrcbxx%2BQercSKYqhBomYFHJfdKe7U4UIWrIO%2FLXG7y%2FE7UEkaKeA7UuSeWYCQ52cWnUxfweod52WmXUPwL8JBM89rIDyXToIC%2BT5z1wNNIIbJ7LP6aDWOc4hCcRV90gm6v8EaoZ%2BdNrzO%2FWkjy7ieEtpcJqsHutr849X9nBlBUSUGgwK9depflQIrmdrCjOCcC4CgHgHg97TKieDCQDEstN7Af8CQB5YJ9pNVVY9MV7n5rsiootd4ZObqhNotgEhnY7nO9OZLE4GfDcw3lCCuQu2LuyJNwjHAaLexGW56QP7LEag%2BRXwQUyBOrvdHY7VhnH9QVcH9QJD%2BGWEArEmaVfaAkijm%2Fei9ztHpacbkIDB6Aavfas9XOwX9pqYID9mUrBVOdqxMdNl6o6t3AahLQVQlwqyEVI5SLlcKfNpbiIwMzwesiAqMclUAASbNN7J86h0%2FARO9uO2E6iHQWC%2FjG%2FTSN0tO54oETmVgNg0qG2W5hgqLVTpdmedKhFSQ1xb%2FTmx3IF%2FshZoBnPwXqWDuvHDx%2BWz14dJDrHjnDVperelyuROrIUYVSrHONR12mli%2BpL5cNsePpSpnQa6MONEVrWxeJCS6q04QTUjtdOak37hLlgnCMuC4iXH2cL7KPP2JocK%2BSu3cKmLs%3D&checksum=3718872416835fc7edc4e2cc444a8616a82ccf713b5b

s-l1600.jpg
 
rockstar195 said:
Thanks for your valuable contribution. If the relay I just bought on ebay was over $50 I would probably make one myself.
Just got mine the other day from ebay for $11.72:
That's pretty reasonable and has a decent rating. Perhaps a little large for my application, but would be good for many.
 
Nice work.

A lot of things are switched on and off electronically in today's cars. The button you push just sends a signal to some FET somewhere. I am sure that there is some information out there to show how these circuits are made reliable with different type of loads.
 
Many SSR's can only handle their amp rating if mounted on a heatsink. You need to read the data sheet of the SSR to find out the whole story on current handling. I've been there trying to size one to handle the safety Hi voltage cutoff on my charging system on my golf cart. The charger puts out over 17 amps. I ended up using a conventional mechanical relay for that application.
 
Thanks for the article. I need to replace four dpdt relays with higher rated devices and the ssr possibility is appealing.
A linear actuator uses reverse polarity power to control actuator movement. One way extends the arm, the reverse polarity retracts the arm. The device is rated for 22a maximum load at 35vdc. I'm using a power booster module to boost 12vdc battery energy to 35vdc for the actuator.
Any suggestions regarding the specific application?
The actuator rotates a solar array in the East/West plane to follow the sun.
 
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