Rear Hub or Mid Drive for general XC riding?

SeaBass

10 µW
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
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6
Greetings,
Looking to add some sort of boost to my 29+ MTB. It’s currently and will stay a Singlespeed although I am thinking I will go down a cog or 2 in size with the addition of a motor. Kind of torn between the Bagang 750w Mid drive with a 48v or a 750w Rear Hub with 48v. A Con with the Mid drive is that I really don’t want to get off and lift the bike over every downed tree I encounter so I don’t hit the motor on it. Don’t know of too many Cons with the rear hub so I am here for enlightenment. Anyone help me out?
Thanks.
 
I'm not sure there is any real advantage to a mid-drive if you don't have multiple gears to run it through.

If you happen to get a geared hub and not a DD, I have read that it is very important to get off the throttle before landing a jump to prevent damage.
 
There is a significant difference in power between a mid-drive and a hubmotor of the same power rating. Geared hubs close the gap a bit, but then you have plastic gears to wear out. If you want power get the mid-drive. If you want simplicity and ruggedness, get a gearless hubmotor and be prepared to help it at low speeds. There are mid-drives that mount above the crank, so if you are worried about fallen trees you may want one of them.
 
I don't think a mid drive would work well with a single speed. Single speeding is all about staying on top of the gear as much as possible and either a torque sensing or especially cadence sensing PAS would just make it feel like mud. JMHO.

On the other hand I am not that big a fan of rear hub motors on mtbs.. Too much rear weight bias.

May sound odd but I would put a small geared hub motor on the front. Not sure what fork you have on your plus but I'm sure there is one out there that will work, hopefully this one: https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/geared.html Small, light (I run a 1000w front hub motor that weighs twice as much almost and can still unweight it easily), 350w or so is all you need and best of all it doesn't interfere with your drive train and you can pedal as much and at whatever cadence you want.

A shark type battery in the triangle mounted low on the down tube keeps that weight centralized and low but depending on the Ah battery you get you could keep the conversion under 12 lbs. easily. Use the cruise control function on the CA3 to set the wattage via a thumb throttle that once again isolates the motor power from the human input.

Oh, and you will now have a two wheel drive bicycle.
 
If you ride hard and fast on rough terrain mid drive handles much better because of the reduced unsprung weight and cg shift. A lighter 750w hub motor may not be too bad though.

Hub motors can also get destroyed if you ride over rough stuff like 20 mph onto kerbs. I've had several apparently short the windings to the stator after violent impacts. But the usual worst case from that is a pinch flat, even at max pressure. That's for 20-30lb motors. Yours will be lighter and handle better.

Oh, hub motors will also make your bike noticeably understeer, if you ride that hard.
 
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