Audisport09 said:
There is one white hall wire which I left out as the controller doesn't't have it.
if you have five wires for halls, then you must use all five, regardless of their colors, or else you don't have enough sensors for the controller to determine direction/position correctly.
there will be one for 5v, usually red.
another for ground, usually black.
then three for hall signal wires. these are usually green, yellow, and blue (usually so are the phase wires--but it is rare for them to match up color for color!).
but they could be any color, even all the same color.
if there are extra wires beyond the five minimum, they could be for a temperature sensor, etc.
Thing is, when it's on the ground and you pulse the throttle at standstill. I can sometimes feeling it wanting to go backwards for a split second. Like it's get confused which way to turn the wheel. However if you get it a rolling start to operates smoothly.
that's just about the definition of a hall sensor problem (or mismatched combination of phase/hall wires).
if you have all five motor hall wires hooked up to the five controller hall wires, then you can check the hall operation by turning on the controller, and hooking up a voltmeter with it's black lead to the black hall wire, and the red lead to any hall signal wire. then turn motor by hand, slowly, and watch the voltmeter readout. it should change back and forth between almost no voltage, and close to 5v. check each signal wire the same way.
if they all work, then the controller may be like one i have here--it has a self learn, and hall wires, but it is actually only a sensorless controller, and cannot actually detect or read the hall signals at all, even though they are there and working.
if they don't work, the controller is probably trying to fall back to sensorless mode, which on some of them doesnt' work very well until you get the motor spinning first. but it could also be that the controller has no sensorless mode, and simply happens to work "ok" with the present hall / phase combination once you get the motor moving, but not from a standstill, especially with a load on it.
keep in mind that running a motor on a controller in sensored mode with the wrong phase / hall combination can cause excessive currents thru both motor and controller, and damage them (though the controller usually blows up before the motor can overheat).
there is a very tiny chance that your motor is one of the "60 degree" motors, where halls are placed in an uncommon configuration, rather than the 120 degrees they're usually at. if the controller has a 60/120 switch you could try it in the other position. (it may be a jumper wire instead, or even just a pad pair on the inside of teh controlelr that has to be solder-jumpered across). this is an unlikely problem though.
if it is a bad controller, and all the halls work in the motor, you should be able to get the seller to replace it, and then the new one wlll probably fix the problem.
if not, you could try a different brand, but there's many many of them out there and all of them should basically work with this kind of motor. ones that are sensored with sensorless fallback, plus autolearn, are a better type because they should work even if your halls are dead--just not as smoothly at startup or under load while very slow or stopped as a sensored would. couldn't really give a recommendation for any particular one at this point, except maybe from http://em3ev.com
