New build, Bafang G310, phantom voltage loss???

In building my current Catrike project, I've got a Bafang G310 in my rear wheel, hooked to my UPP 16aH hailong battery (with installed Baserunner) which has given me so much grief and is still throwing Throttle Voltage errors (11) so that I cannot even run the AutoTune using the software. Prior to installing the Baserunner (on Grin's advice) I had installed two different GR4820 controllers (the initially recommended model) which both either had defective mosfets from delivery or blew them on being powered up (?).
Today, I have unhooked everything from the system except the Cycle Analyst. There is no PAS, no throttle, just the CA, controller/battery, and wheel. But, according to the Cycle Analyst, the system has bled off half of an Amp Hour in the last day, with nothing running to ghost-drain on the battery that I can fathom.
Am I wrong here? This should sit indefinitely without running the battery down, as there should be zero current draw in this circumstance. Correct, or am I mistaken?
But my MG60 motored fat trike, also fully outfitted by Grin (w/ a 4820 controller), never seems to leak any juice (a technical term, to be sure) and works like a champ.
Is it possible that my motor is the issue and is the source of the voltage faults? I've swapped out every other component with known-good units and keep winding up back at this point.
As this too is a geared hub motor, the wheel should rotate freely (unpowered) when off the ground, right? My MG60 will just spin away by hand, no problem. This G310 always has some palpable resistance whether powered up or not; it doesn't seem to make a difference. I just tried this side by side with both rears off the ground and the light bulb went on above my skull, however dim.
Any input?

I'm a total noob to this so take the information for what it is worth. I've worked on setting up a G310 with a CA and baserunner over the last couple of weeks. Out the box, every time I would touch the throttle or the PAS would engage, the motor would cut out and the baserunner would show an overvoltage fault (9).

In the phaserunner software, I ended up increasing the Current Regulator Bandwidth from 1000 rads up to 3000 rads. I left the PLL bandwidth at 256 Rads. The PLL damping increased from 1.87 as the default to 2.15. At the same time on the advanced set up page, I set the sensorless starting parameters of Autostart injection current to 9.4A and the spinup time to 300 ms. I'm not sure that the adjustments on the sensorless starting parameters were necessary based on what I've read subsequently, however, the adjustments to the current regulator bandwidth resolved the issue with the motor cutting off and the overcurrent faults on the phaserunner. Although the motor wasn't cutting out after these changes, I was getting considerable lag in the throttle response. Today on the CA, I decreased the min throttle in from 0.99V to 0.91V (0.86V showing in CA on throttle in setup) and increased the min throttle out from 0.99V to 1.20V based on the wheel starting to spin at 1.25V on the display with gradual increase in throttle. Those adjustments seem to have dealt with the throttle response pretty effectively. Lastly, with a 36V battery, I have the max power limit set to 600 W and max phase current set to 37 A with max battery current of 17.2 A.

With respect to resistance on free wheeling on the G310, I would say it is similar to an IGH (a few revolutions with a moderate spin). Definitely not effortless like a non-powered freewheel but still much less than a DD motor (an old bionx being my comparison).

As for the current draw with nothing engaged, I've noticed the same thing. I'm not sure what to ascribe that to.

Not sure if any of this helps but I struggled a bit with finding information on the setup so I thought I'd pass along what seems to be a workable configuration that I've gotten to.

Thanks for the input, Rick. I'll give some of those settings a go.

Q: is the resistance to free rotation on yours as bad as this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OOsAdN9uEk

Watching your video, my G310 spins a bit better but not by a lot. If I do a short pull on the spokes, it will turn 4 or 5 clicks and come to a stop. Definitely not freewheeling to the same extent as your other motor.

geared motors freewheel in one direction, but not the other.. a dual reduction motor like a g310 will also have more drag than a single reduction one.. but should freewheel pretty well in the right direction.

You just need to worry if it's got a lot of resistance both ways. That means your clutch is busted..

If the battery is flowing power ( IE you have it turned on ), the cycle analyst can use a tiny bit of current to keep awake. So can the controller, just to keep it's lil' computer running.