Greetings!
A couple of months ago I've bought a used KTM e-bike, pedal assist only with all Panasonic electronics and hub motor. After some things happening I'd rather not post about I've come to the point of having to replace the controller on it hoping to keep the motor and the battery. The replacement controller is a generic Chinese 350W one and a twist throttle to go with it. After connecting everything the bike seems to function well on my stand, the wheel spins and responds to throttle as expected however after a test ride i discover that it has practically no power. Moving from a standstill with anything above the slightest twist of the throttle is impossible as the motor does a strange thudding skipping thing and refuses to move. It's also possible to lock up the wheel if it's stalled in an exact position making it stuck in place until the throttle is released. Some points and things I've tried:
I'm hoping that someone has experienced and dealt with a problem like this as I'm all out of ideas at this point. Any help would be much appreciated!
A couple of months ago I've bought a used KTM e-bike, pedal assist only with all Panasonic electronics and hub motor. After some things happening I'd rather not post about I've come to the point of having to replace the controller on it hoping to keep the motor and the battery. The replacement controller is a generic Chinese 350W one and a twist throttle to go with it. After connecting everything the bike seems to function well on my stand, the wheel spins and responds to throttle as expected however after a test ride i discover that it has practically no power. Moving from a standstill with anything above the slightest twist of the throttle is impossible as the motor does a strange thudding skipping thing and refuses to move. It's also possible to lock up the wheel if it's stalled in an exact position making it stuck in place until the throttle is released. Some points and things I've tried:
- I've tried many combinations of phase wire and hall sensor wiring and have concluded that they do not change the controller's behavior. After every combination change I'd run the "self learning" mode and would come to the same point as before - smooth rotation with no load but no actual power output (the self learning mode on Chinese controllers runs the motor in an attempt to detect motor phase and hall sensor layout, a calibration of sorts)
- In the mentioned "self learning" mode the motor seems to run as it should (???): loading it by braking does not cause it to skip and thud, stalling it in certain positions does not cause it to lock up in place
- I have not yet tested the battery current to see if that's what's limiting the controller's power output but I doubt that this is the issue as the bike had quite a bit of power with the original electronics (together with the previous point) and all the wires used on it are very thick, which makes me assume that the actual max current the battery is limited to is quite high
I'm hoping that someone has experienced and dealt with a problem like this as I'm all out of ideas at this point. Any help would be much appreciated!