Phaserunner + CA switch

Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
12
Hi team,

I've started wiring my new bike and I wanted to add a simple key switch to cut power to the controller and Cycle analyst, without having to use my battery master switch

The phaserunner v3 manual states that the controller will power on if the yellow+white switch wires are connected, or a cycle analyst is connected. I thought I'd try switching on those wires even though my CA is connected, and it does indeed seem to do nothing. Providing the phaserunner has power and the CA is connected, the phaserunner will stay on.

My question now is, is my only option switching power on my main battery lines? Thanks
 
Hey HrKlev, I've got the CA3-WP, and the phaserunner MT, which join with the Hugo plug so I didn't really want to have to cut into that main loom. Any ideas would be much appreciated
 
Hmm....

The red wire coming out of the phaserunner is always live with battery voltage. It also feeds the CA with power. To turn the PR on, you need to feed battery voltage into the orange wire (key switch). If I understand it right, the yellow and white wire out of the throttle connector are parallelled with these, so if you connect these, the PR also switch on (its for using the PR without a CA)

On my setup, I use an old CA with a new PR, so I needed the adapter. In the newest PR manual addon, you see a picture if this where the red and orange wire are connected inside the adapter. That is what makes the PR turn on. So all I had to do was to put a switch inline the red wire, that will turn both PR and CA on/off.

In your case, I think you must either ask grin or open up the CA to take a look at how the red an orange wire are ran inside the CA. I would guess they both are connected to the power input on your CA. If you can redo the wiring and put a switch inline the red wire before it connect to the CA inpit power, that should work. You would probably have to pull a new wire with the switch out of the CA.

Another idea might be to put a switch on the yellow and white wire in the throttle plug, and then use the orange wire to power up the CA. Make sure first that when you short these, you get battery power on the orange wire (pull the CA plug and measure there). Then all you would need to do is open up the CA and make sure the orange wire is soldered to the power input, and isolate the red wire.

Hope some of this makes sense.
 
Thanks for all that info that's great. In saying that I think it'll be easier to just use my battery isolate switch to kill power to everything at once
 
I have a baserunner and a ca3 and I use a switch from grin (CA3_MFSwitch) that I use to toggle speed/power settings and that includes a power button that turns the controller and ca on and off.
 
Yeah in hindsight that is the model I probably should have gone for, but my CA doesn't have that functionality
 
@Jenming:
I have an identical setup
How did you wire up ( what colors) the connection to the middle button of the 3 button Grin auxD
At Grin’s website never found info about it.
Thanks in advance !
 
Lightbluemk2 said:
Hey HrKlev, I've got the CA3-WP, and the phaserunner MT, which join with the Hugo plug so I didn't really want to have to cut into that main loom. Any ideas would be much appreciated

Hi Lightbluemk2, I'm in the exact same boat. I ordered the CA3-WP without the MF-Switch, but now I want a power switch at the handlebars. (In my case I skipped the MF-Switch mistakenly thinking it's not compatible with GRIN's solar charge current sensing shunt.)

I popped the Cycle Analyst open, and we can see the Higo's red and orange wires both soldered to V+. Like HrKlev suggested, if one were to snip the red wire and put a switch there it ought to control power to both the Cycle Analyst and the motor controller. If you put a switch on the orange wire, I think that would switch on/off the motor controller, but the Cycle Analyst would always be on.

There is spare access hole in the back of the CA3-WP that could be used to pass the switch wires through. (I presume it's also where the MF-Switch wire feeds thru in that CA version.)

CA3-WP wires.jpg
I once had an ebike throttle go bad and lock itself at 100%. I didn't get more than a bashed shin, but it was a very unsafe situation! Having a power switch in easy reach is a good thing.
 
Not as elegant as what is being suggested, but you could always get this. Note it has a 20-25A limit.

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/keyswitch.html
 
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