MAC speed sensor adding

neos

100 mW
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
48
For whatever reason, MAC motors don't seem to have a built-in speed sensor
which can provide a speed signal also while coasting.
Has anyone ever added a speed sensor to a freewheel MAC motor?
Would this be feasible with a reasonable amount of effort?
 
Grin has done such a mod:

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits/gmac.html

Thou it is unclear on where they positioned it.

I recently opened my motor (mac 10T) to check wiring and so on, it is alot of space to do mods, but you would need a hall sensor and then position 1 or 2 magnets in the top casing, maybe using a milling drill to make a small identation would be good enough?
 
E-HP said:
So is a wheel magnet and sensor too crude of a solution?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I did for my MAC 12t install. Sensor output goes where the white wire from the motor is now. Original white wire from the motor no longer used. Picked up my 5v and ground for the wheel sensor from the PAS sensor. Wheel sensor pretty cheap, and just took a few minutes to install.
 
pomah said:
Grin has done such a mod:

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits/gmac.html

Thou it is unclear on where they positioned it.

I recently opened my motor (mac 10T) to check wiring and so on, it is alot of space to do mods, but you would need a hall sensor and then position 1 or 2 magnets in the top casing, maybe using a milling drill to make a small identation would be good enough?

MAC did some improvements on this motor you can buy them with built in speed sensor from factory and choose between 1 or 6 signals per turn.
They also come with bigger phase wires and Higo compatible connector.

The big advantage of Grin GMAC motor is the integrated torque arm with 10mm axle which makes it possible to use regen.
 
This answer from ebikes.ca seems somewhat contradictory to me:

So if you happened to have a motor that did not have a locked clutch, you would be able to get your speed while freewheeling regardless.

Since I have a MAC without a locked clutch, it should provide a speed signal also while coasting?
But the shop where I bought the MAC told me that the motor does not provide a speed signal while
freewheeling?

The porblem is, I em still waiting for the battery and the Cylce Anaylst, therefore I can't test it myself.

Therefore, can this MAC
provide a speed signal through the hall cable while coasting or not?

I will use a Phaserunner.

pomah said:
I recently opened my motor (mac 10T) to check wiring and so on, it is alot of space to do mods, but you would need a hall sensor and then position 1 or 2 magnets in the top casing, maybe using a milling drill to make a small identation would be good enough?

Do you mean in the inside of the top casing? How do they stick to it?
If glued, with which glue?
Where and how is the hall sensor attached?
Which hall sensor and which magnets are best suited for this?

Are there any fotos or videos of how to do such a mod?
Also a video of changing the speed sensor in a MAC could be helpful.

AHicks said:
That's what I did for my MAC 12t install. Sensor output goes where the white wire from the motor is now. Original white wire from the motor no longer used. Picked up my 5v and ground for the wheel sensor from the PAS sensor. Wheel sensor pretty cheap, and just took a few minutes to install.

What white wire? I have a 3 PIN motor phase connector, a 2 pin temp connector and
this 5 pin hall sensor connector:

PIN1: Hall sensor Green
PIN2: Hall sensor Blue
PIN3: Hall sensor Yellow
PIN4: Black, Gnd
PIN5: Red, +5V

E-HP said:
So is a wheel magnet and sensor too crude of a solution

If I bought a motor that costs that much at least I would expect that it can provide a speed
signal while coasting without such awkward stopgap solutions.
 
neos said:
If I bought a motor that costs that much at least I would expect that it can provide a speed
signal while coasting without such awkward stopgap solutions.

Maybe because you're buying a motor? The $500k Ferrari 458 came without a radio. People are buying the car.
 
neos said:
If I bought a motor that costs that much at least I would expect that it can provide a speed signal while coasting without such awkward stopgap solutions.

Why? That's not an intrinsic function of a motor with a one-way clutch.

This is a non-problem, but pedal cyclists figured it out generations ago. Use one of their methods. Or maybe don't trouble yourself with it.

I have two e-bikes. One tracks speed, mileage, average speed, elapsed time, maximum speed, etc. The other turns on and off, and that's it. Guess which one is more pleasurable to ride?

If I want to know how fast I'm moving, I can ask my phone. If I want to know how far I've ridden, I can ask my phone. In practice, I do neither of these things.
 
neos said:
AHicks said:
That's what I did for my MAC 12t install. Sensor output goes where the white wire from the motor is now. Original white wire from the motor no longer used. Picked up my 5v and ground for the wheel sensor from the PAS sensor. Wheel sensor pretty cheap, and just took a few minutes to install.

What white wire? I have a 3 PIN motor phase connector, a 2 pin temp connector and
this 5 pin hall sensor connector:

PIN1: Hall sensor Green
PIN2: Hall sensor Blue
PIN3: Hall sensor Yellow
PIN4: Black, Gnd
PIN5: Red, +5V

E-HP said:
So is a wheel magnet and sensor too crude of a solution

If I bought a motor that costs that much at least I would expect that it can provide a speed
signal while coasting without such awkward stopgap solutions.

My MAC was not equipped with a temp sensor, or the same plugs shown in that link. The white wire was inserted into the 6 wire plug containing the hall sensor wires, 5v and grnd. It would supply a speed signal only when the motor was turning (under power). While coasting it would drop to nothing.

Regarding "awkward stopgap solutions" I would just like to share that the Bafang mid drives, including the newest Ultra, use that same "awkward stopgap solution" that you will likely be using on your new ride. Point being, it's only an "awkward stopgap solution" if YOU think of it that way. It's not that big a deal.
 
AHicks said:
Regarding "awkward stopgap solutions" I would just like to share that the Bafang mid drives, including the newest Ultra, use that same "awkward stopgap solution" that you will likely be using on your new ride. Point being, it's only an "awkward stopgap solution" if YOU think of it that way. It's not that big a deal.

Well if you spend $6k on a Specialized Turbo Levo, then at least they upgrade the magnet position to the disc rotar instead of the spokes. I guess there might be a way to mount a regular spoke magnet on the disc too, so it will feel like a much more expensive bike :thumb:
 
E-HP said:
AHicks said:
Regarding "awkward stopgap solutions" I would just like to share that the Bafang mid drives, including the newest Ultra, use that same "awkward stopgap solution" that you will likely be using on your new ride. Point being, it's only an "awkward stopgap solution" if YOU think of it that way. It's not that big a deal.

Well if you spend $6k on a Specialized Turbo Levo, then at least they upgrade the magnet position to the disc rotar instead of the spokes. I guess there might be a way to mount a regular spoke magnet on the disc too, so it will feel like a much more expensive bike :thumb:

Speaking for myself, I'm going to need a better reason to spend 6K on a bike! I get what you're saying though... it wouldn't take that much to have it done right. One less wire to have hanging out waiting for a stick to snag it, forcing a walk home. -Al
 
Most likely you have a white wire hidden in the harness with all the other hall sensor wires.

But to be honest, taking a part a brand new mac motor, and do mod if this type on it does not seem like a good choose if you have not done similar things before, it is a tight fit and you might end up destroying your motor with 0 km on it...
 
Balmorhea said:
Why? That's not an intrinsic function of a motor with a one-way clutch.

The point that bothers me is, that even cheap hub motors (like my
MXUS X15) have this functionality.
Now with a several times more expensive motor I should do without it?
That doesn't make sense to me.

Balmorhea said:
If I want to know how fast I'm moving, I can ask my phone. If I want to know how far I've ridden, I can ask my phone. In practice, I do neither of these things.

Problem with that solution is, a mobile phone display isn't always that readable like a dedicated bicycle display,
especially if it is under a foil and it has rained or at very bright sunlight.
Beside that, the measurement with GPS is sometimes delayed or the signal get lost.

AHicks said:
Regarding "awkward stopgap solutions" I would just like to share that the Bafang mid drives, including the newest Ultra, use that same "awkward stopgap solution" that you will likely be using on your new ride. Point being, it's only an "awkward stopgap solution" if YOU think of it that way. It's not that big a deal.

If one goal of your bike conversion is to have afterwards less cables at the bike than before
and if you have specifically pointed out before purchasing that you need this feature and the shop had confirmed this,
then this is somewhat annoying.

pomah said:
But to be honest, taking a part a brand new mac motor, and do mod if this type on it does not seem like a good choose if you have not done similar things before, it is a tight fit and you might end up destroying your motor with 0 km on it...

This is also my concern.
I have also asked MAC Motortech. They told me that this motor also have a locked clutch.
If this is really true, I will send the motor back anyway.

E-HP said:
Maybe because you're buying a motor? The $500k Ferrari 458 came without a radio. People are buying the car.

I bought the motor because the shop has confirmed that this motor does provide a speed signal while coasting
and it has freewheel. If both isn't the case, then I was deceived by the shop.
 
You don't seem to care for many of the answers/advice you are getting here. Why is it that you are not working this problem out with the people who sold you this motor?
 
neos said:
I bought the motor because the shop has confirmed that this motor does provide a speed signal while coasting
and it has freewheel. If both isn't the case, then I was deceived by the shop.

This is the first time I've heard of someone buying a motor because it has a speed signal. There are much less expensive options if that's your main decision point. However, it's not the first time I've seen people take the word of a vendor rather than doing the research before purchasing. That's pretty common, the first time, but not worth dwelling on.
 
AHicks said:
You don't seem to care for many of the answers/advice you are getting here.

I em just try to explain why an external speed sensor solution won't work for my conversion.
It would just make no sense to take an advice that doesn't give you the
result you are looking for. This has nothing to do with not appreciating / taking care of the answers.

E-HP said:
This is the first time I've heard of someone buying a motor because it has a speed signal.

Not only because of the speed sensor. Main decisions points are: Torque / speed, freewheel, low noise, speed sensor, temperature sensor.

E-HP said:
There are much less expensive options if that's your main decision point.

Yes, for example the MXUS XF-19 would be also interesting. Unfortunately it lacks some other features.

E-HP said:
However, it's not the first time I've seen people take the word of a vendor rather than doing the research before purchasing. That's pretty common, the first time, but not worth dwelling on

If a MAC with such features didn't exist at all, one could claim this.
But if the result of your research is that a MAC with all this features exists and the vendor
confirms that his MAC is such a MAC, what can you do further?

AHicks said:
Why is it that you are not working this problem out with the people who sold you this motor?

Who says I haven't already? As I mentioned before, if the motor also has no freewheel I will
send it back.
Therefore: problem solved.
 
AHicks said:
Well, that's a relief....

Please let us know if your motor has a clutch.

This is what MAC Motortech answered me:

Clutchless motor can regenerative braking, OZO's is clutch version, not cluthless, so OZO's can't. If you want cluthless version, please contact OZO directly, we don't retail.

Since I don't need regenerative braking but easy pedaling in case of power loss, I will not send the MAC back.

E-HP said:
So if it has a freewheel clutch, you're keeping it right? :thumb:

Yes, since the external speed sensor is more an optical issue than a serious practical issue.
Having always to consider that you have to pedal against a high resistance in case of
a power loss would not be very pleasant.
Even if a complete power loss is (hopefully) a very rare occurrence, it's a more comforting feeling
that you can still get to your destination on your own.

Probably I have already found a solution for the speed sensor problem.
Instead of using a spoke magnet I will use a very small Neodym magnet and
attach it to the motor case or the brake disc.
The sensor / cable could be hidden under something like this. I will use this anyway for protecting / hiding the motor cable.
 
E-HP said:
https://www.amaincycling.com/specialized-levo-fsr-speed-sensor-magnet-kit-s194200016/p864845

Thanks, if there is enough space between the frame and the disc for the sensor then this would be the easiest solution.
 
Back
Top