Hub Motor out of true

On a 45mm magnet 3kw motor (very similar to mxus 3k), I have yesterday removed the right cover, added some more Statorade, and then reinstalled the right cover with silicone sealant.
After that the motor was a bit out of true. Less than a millimeter on the spoke flange, but I had to retrue the rim and the brake disc is grinding.

I will probably change the bearings next week.
Would you say this is within tolerance, problem with the bearings or something else?

did you misplace a washer or have washers of different thickness that were put in the wrong spot? makes no sense for the disc brake to be grinding.

you can remove a disc brake screw, drill a hole so you can inject statorade and put the screw back in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZU-mhlNcqE

The problem is not the brake disc. The motor itself is not turning round, which caused the rim, the brake disc and the flywheel to be out of true.
I checked it by holding the end of a zip tie to the spoke flange on the side where I have spoke elbows inside.

I put the Statorade directly onto the rotor (with the stator removed) last year.
This time I only removed the right cover and left the stator inside when adding more Statorade to the magnets. Then I put some silicone sealant onto the right cover and reinstalled it.

Could be:
1. Too much sealant, holding surfaces apart at a slight angle.
2. Cover is not machined concentric, and you reassembled in a different "clock" position (rotated).
3. Spoke tension (uneven) pulled the hub out-of-round after you removed the side cover.

Is it "buckled" (no longer running true), or, is it running true, but just at a slight angle to where it was before? Is the axle seated in exactly the same location as previous?

It is "buckled" (out of true). Maybe 1mm at the spoke flange. It sits perfect inside the dropouts and is fixed by torque arms on both sides (connected to IS2000 mount on the left, and to a thread I cut into the frame on the right)

The cover screws are only M4, so they should only be tightened by about 3Nm, however I think it was tight enough to make all excess sealant flow to the outside.

Regarding 2, do the covers of these 3kw hub motors usually only fit in one out of 8 or 9 possible clock positions? I will probably need to try that next week :-(

my 3540 side covers will only go on 1 way where all the screw holes line up correctly. i made that mistake the first time i pulled a motor apart, now i always use a black sharpie to mark the seam so it goes back on the same way it came off.

also did you just whack the motor on the ground to take it apart?

No, I use a 3-arm gear puller