3000W Sensorless Controller

jesusxd00

1 mW
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
14
Hello, what do you think about this controller?

72 V 80 Amp 24 mosfet, 3000w. Sensorless mode (WITHOUT HALL SENSORS)

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001039692672.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5d1963c0D8vMGz

Is it a good option? I have a 5000w motor hub.


Will sensorless mode work fine?



Thanks :)
 
I don't think it is. Think of the controller as needing to outmuscle the motor. If my internet wasn't so bad tonight I'm ready to throw the computer out the window I would have linked a 5000w 100 amp unit. Start there.

Is the hub sensorless? Are you trying to use one with a bad sensor What would it have to do to "Work fine?"
 
Dauntless said:
I don't think it is. Think of the controller as needing to outmuscle the motor. If my internet wasn't so bad tonight I'm ready to throw the computer out the window I would have linked a 5000w 100 amp unit. Start there.

Is the hub sensorless? Are you trying to use one with a bad sensor What would it have to do to "Work fine?"

It is a QS205. I don´t know if my halls are fine, so I bought that controller because it can work sensorless mode (without hall sensors)
 
jesusxd00 said:
Hello, what do you think about this controller?

72 V 80 Amp 24 mosfet, 3000w. Sensorless mode (WITHOUT HALL SENSORS)

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001039692672.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5d1963c0D8vMGz

Is it a good option? I have a 5000w motor hub.


Will sensorless mode work fine?



Thanks :)

First, that's not enough controller to properly run a 5000W motor, and you really don't want to run a big hubmotor sensorless until the guys with the very advanced (and much more expensive) controllers get their sensorless operation working better.
 
John in CR said:
jesusxd00 said:
Hello, what do you think about this controller?

72 V 80 Amp 24 mosfet, 3000w. Sensorless mode (WITHOUT HALL SENSORS)

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001039692672.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5d1963c0D8vMGz

Is it a good option? I have a 5000w motor hub.


Will sensorless mode work fine?



Thanks :)

First, that's not enough controller to properly run a 5000W motor, and you really don't want to run a big hubmotor sensorless until the guys with the very advanced (and much more expensive) controllers get their sensorless operation working better.

Thanks for your response. First, I bought a sensorless controller because I don´t know if my halls were broken. But the motor has 2 pairs, so sure one hall instalation is working properly (controller can work also with halls).

And second, if my motor is a 5000w, I think there is no problem riding with a 3000w 80 a controller, right? My previous controller was a Sabvoton 72080, and it was also 80A in cc.
 
jesusxd00 said:
And second, if my motor is a 5000w, I think there is no problem riding with a 3000w 80 a controller, right? My previous controller was a Sabvoton 72080, and it was also 80A in cc.

How long did this work? Are you sure you're not misreading a 1500w hub motor? If it's 5000w this is the recommended controller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32827301253.html I think you need to figure out if there is a bad hall sensor and replacing that might be better than replacing the controller.

But before you do decide on a new controller be sure about that motor. Do you find that it is 45H, V1 or V2? Or maybe 50H V3? If I could find the page on their website they have all these combinations but for now let's just get you to take a good look and give us the numbers.
 
Get an ebike tester first, or since that controller is so cheap get it too and keep it as backup later on after you get your motor running properly with a sufficient controller.

Why use a hubbie that weighs 14.5kg without spokes, rim and tire, and under-utilize it? It's like buying a sports car and sticking a block of wood under the gas pedal to intentionally prevent using the car's potential.

Why is your Sabvoton dead?...probably because the motor killed it.
 
John in CR said:
Why use a hubbie that weighs 14.5kg without spokes, rim and tire, and under-utilize it? It's like buying a sports car and sticking a block of wood under the gas pedal to intentionally prevent using the car's potential.

More like driving an empty truck to work and back every day. As so many do.
 
Chalo said:
John in CR said:
Why use a hubbie that weighs 14.5kg without spokes, rim and tire, and under-utilize it? It's like buying a sports car and sticking a block of wood under the gas pedal to intentionally prevent using the car's potential.

More like driving an empty truck to work and back every day. As so many do.

True.

Chalo, you've mellowed in your absence. Before your response would have been "That's an unlicensed electric motorcycle that doesn't belong on the street." Are you now using decent power on your e-pedicabs to make them more useful and practical?
 
Dauntless said:
jesusxd00 said:
And second, if my motor is a 5000w, I think there is no problem riding with a 3000w 80 a controller, right? My previous controller was a Sabvoton 72080, and it was also 80A in cc.

How long did this work? Are you sure you're not misreading a 1500w hub motor? If it's 5000w this is the recommended controller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32827301253.html I think you need to figure out if there is a bad hall sensor and replacing that might be better than replacing the controller.

But before you do decide on a new controller be sure about that motor. Do you find that it is 45H, V1 or V2? Or maybe 50H V3? If I could find the page on their website they have all these combinations but for now let's just get you to take a good look and give us the numbers.

I have bought that kit for 300€ (battery samsunt 20ah 72v new, that controller and motor. Controller had error 30h, he had used it 1 month)

So I bought this 3000w controller (50€) to check and test the motor meanwhile. I know a 5000-8000w controller would be nice, but in the meantime, I have bought that.
 
I've noticed how mellow Chalo's posts are, but he still gets his points across but in a more mellow way.
:thumb:


John in CR said:
Chalo said:
John in CR said:
Why use a hubbie that weighs 14.5kg without spokes, rim and tire, and under-utilize it? It's like buying a sports car and sticking a block of wood under the gas pedal to intentionally prevent using the car's potential.

More like driving an empty truck to work and back every day. As so many do.

True.

Chalo, you've mellowed in your absence. Before your response would have been "That's an unlicensed electric motorcycle that doesn't belong on the street." Are you now using decent power on your e-pedicabs to make them more useful and practical?
 
markz said:
I've noticed how mellow Chalo's posts are, but he still gets his points across but in a more mellow way.
:thumb:

LOL, ya'll act like he was neutered or something. :lol: We all mellow with age, but anyone that couldn't handle the "old" Chalo need to grow a thicker skin. Good information sometimes comes with a price.
 
E-HP said:
markz said:
I've noticed how mellow Chalo's posts are, but he still gets his points across but in a more mellow way.
:thumb:

LOL, ya'll act like he was neutered or something. :lol: We all mellow with age, but anyone that couldn't handle the "old" Chalo need to grow a thicker skin. Good information sometimes comes with a price.

His anti ebike attitude toward anything that didn't meet his definition of what an electric bicycle should be was never good info, and always did and always will get a strong rebuttal from me. On bicycle related stuff I always valued his input. I have no problem arguing vehemently with someone and still remain friends, so if I ever get to Austin I'll definitely look Chalo up and have some beers at a minimum. I'd love to see some of his wacky pedal bike projects.
 
Don't worry; I still see motorists as the moral equivalent of slave owners, and I will still move to the first passable American city that bans cars and institutes a 20 mph citywide speed limit on streets.

I've given up on convincing the intransigently corrupt that they're wrong. They can stay wrong without my help.
 
Chalo said:
I've given up on convincing the intransigently corrupt that they're wrong. They can stay wrong without my help.

Yup, there's that edge, even with the mellowing; like the tannins in red wine. :lol:

I'll see if I can recall any of the obscure bicycle related questions that I failed to ask during your absence...but memory is another age related problem, so it may take me a while :p
 
jesusxd00 said:
Dauntless said:
jesusxd00 said:
And second, if my motor is a 5000w, I think there is no problem riding with a 3000w 80 a controller, right? My previous controller was a Sabvoton 72080, and it was also 80A in cc.

How long did this work? Are you sure you're not misreading a 1500w hub motor? If it's 5000w this is the recommended controller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32827301253.html I think you need to figure out if there is a bad hall sensor and replacing that might be better than replacing the controller.

But before you do decide on a new controller be sure about that motor. Do you find that it is 45H, V1 or V2? Or maybe 50H V3? If I could find the page on their website they have all these combinations but for now let's just get you to take a good look and give us the numbers.

I have bought that kit for 300€ (battery samsunt 20ah 72v new, that controller and motor. Controller had error 30h, he had used it 1 month)

So I bought this 3000w controller (50€) to check and test the motor meanwhile. I know a 5000-8000w controller would be nice, but in the meantime, I have bought that.

Any thoughts on this?
 
jesusxd00 said:
Any thoughts on this?

Thoughts on this? If you mean about the thread, here are some general thoughts based on observing forum requests and responses.

The quality of advice provided on this forum is commensurate with the quality of information provided up front by the poster. Some people read the stickies on how to get advice (what info to provide, etc.) and some obviously don't. Threads that don't make it, usually provide very little information up front. The typical pattern then is that someone tries to help using that minimal information, and then the poster will add a little more information, that invalidates the advice. That can cycle through several iterations.

As far as responders go, some will read the original post, see that it lacks info, ignore and move on. Some are willing to go through the question and answer routine to eventually get the information to provide proper advice. Some will just wait, check back once in a while, until there is sufficient information before providing the advice, rather than providing advice based on limited details and being told the hamburger is bad (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=94719&p=1387416&hilit=hamburger+bad#p1387416)

I think at this point on this thread, most people are falling into the third category, or just don't want to read through the whole thread to get the information that would have been helpful, if it were provided up front.

If you're really only using it to test the motor, then any cheap dual mode (sensored or sensorless) will work to see if the halls function, and if not, if the motor functions. But since you already bought the unit (I see this all the time too, where posters ask if something will work, and find out later they already ordered it), it should be fine for testing.
 
E-HP said:
jesusxd00 said:
Any thoughts on this?

Thoughts on this? If you mean about the thread, here are some general thoughts based on observing forum requests and responses.

The quality of advice provided on this forum is commensurate with the quality of information provided up front by the poster. Some people read the stickies on how to get advice (what info to provide, etc.) and some obviously don't. Threads that don't make it, usually provide very little information up front. The typical pattern then is that someone tries to help using that minimal information, and then the poster will add a little more information, that invalidates the advice. That can cycle through several iterations.

As far as responders go, some will read the original post, see that it lacks info, ignore and move on. Some are willing to go through the question and answer routine to eventually get the information to provide proper advice. Some will just wait, check back once in a while, until there is sufficient information before providing the advice, rather than providing advice based on limited details and being told the hamburger is bad (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=94719&p=1387416&hilit=hamburger+bad#p1387416)

I think at this point on this thread, most people are falling into the third category, or just don't want to read through the whole thread to get the information that would have been helpful, if it were provided up front.

If you're really only using it to test the motor, then any cheap dual mode (sensored or sensorless) will work to see if the halls function, and if not, if the motor functions. But since you already bought the unit (I see this all the time too, where posters ask if something will work, and find out later they already ordered it), it should be fine for testing.

Thanks for your response.

Controller arrived, and it work smooth with and without halls. I am very surprised, because it was a 50 euros controller, but it works well. Throttle response its not lineal, so the first part of your accelerator is so smooth (running without halls). So, I am very happy with controller, I will use it until it breaks.
 
Is the throttle response good? Many cheap controllers have nothing happening for half a second then full power. I’m trying to find a cheap controller that has instant throttle response but not much luck so far?
 
electric_nz said:
Is the throttle response good? Many cheap controllers have nothing happening for half a second then full power. I’m trying to find a cheap controller that has instant throttle response but not much luck so far?

Yeah, throttle response is awesome, but very sensitive in highest mode. I reached 85kmh only with accelerator in a flat road!
 
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