ebikeling 36v hub kit troubleshooting

Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
13
Hi,
I got a 36v 250w rear wheel kit from ebikeling.https://www.amazon.com/EBIKELING-Wa...ords=ebikeling+36v+rear&qid=1608502811&sr=8-2
I have been unable to get it to turn on. I connected the wiring harness to everything, and the display flashed on for a second and no longer will turn on. I had a working display from a different kit (CYC x1 gen 2) with its own wiring harness that I plugged in and now that display looks like it is bricked because it does not turn on with the CYC kit. I probably should not have swapped displays like that but I was just trying to troubleshoot. Is my ebikeling controller over-volting the display or something? Does anyone have the pinout and voltages of this kit?
 
Jasonafriedman said:
I probably should not have swapped displays like that but I was just trying to troubleshoot.
That sucks.

Most displays have battery voltage running to them to monitor charge, etc. There is no universal wiring order for displays, so the chance of the battery voltage input on the two harnesses are in the same position, seems to be low unless they are displays from the same manufacturer. Battery voltage going to a circuit that expects a 5V signal is not ideal.

For future reference, resist the temptation of plugging the controller's battery +/- wires into the wall socket.
 
amberwolf said:
What voltage battery are you connecting to the Amazon kit?

What voltage battery is used on the CYC kit?

Amazon kit: 36v
CYC: 52v (although the display should work at 36v)
 
E-HP said:
Jasonafriedman said:
I probably should not have swapped displays like that but I was just trying to troubleshoot.
That sucks.

Most displays have battery voltage running to them to monitor charge, etc. There is no universal wiring order for displays, so the chance of the battery voltage input on the two harnesses are in the same position, seems to be low unless they are displays from the same manufacturer. Battery voltage going to a circuit that expects a 5V signal is not ideal.

For future reference, resist the temptation of plugging the controller's battery +/- wires into the wall socket.
HAHA. Hey at least I tried to check with a multimeter first. Those connectors are small for my probe though so I couldn't get a reading.
 
Jasonafriedman said:
Those connectors are small for my probe though so I couldn't get a reading.
You can shove straight pins (sewing) or sometimes paper clips into the smaller connectors to extend them out for DVM probing.
 
Jasonafriedman said:
Amazon kit: 36v
Ok, then the next step is to check if the Amazon kit battery is charged and outputting power when a load is placed on it, or if it shuts down (which would cause what you saw).

When it is not connected to the kit, what voltage does your multimeter read on the main + and - of the battery output?

If it *also* has a separate charger input, what voltage do you read there?

When it *is* connected to the kit, and you try to turn the kit on but it fails to do so, what voltage does your multimeter read on the main + and - of the battery output? (you may have to poke the meter probes *into* the insulation on the wires, if you can't access the contacts from the back of the connector).

If it *also* has a separate charger input, what voltage do you read there?
 
Ebikeling harness plug to display might not have been fully seated, causing display to briefly turn on. Check that all male pins are straight. Line up arrows on plugs ( probably keyed also ) and push hard. The smaller plug will have a line on the side to indicate how far the outer sleeve of the larger plug has to go to be fully seated.
 
Write to ebikeling support. Ask for drawings to help fix your Amazon purchase, don't give them a full story; "Hi. Having trouble with your XYZ from Amazon. Do you have drawings?" Their info email should direct you to support: info@ebikeling.com (or try "support@..."

While you wait, draw your system (over and over if you must) so anyone can read it, build test points into your wiring (that is to say; cut cables, solder wires or a full breakout "T" connector, make it waterproof and clean) so you will never "short + to -" again. You will know your wiring intimately by the time you fix it. Don't do jankey stuff. Make it look good and be functional.
 
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