I've had several different mini's and a couple of Ezee's and the first thing is, I wouldn't put a 5 Kg.s hub motor on the frt. Too much weight swinging around on the fork. The Bafang is 3 plus, and that's about as much as I like to use up frt. Also, the Bafang on 52 V's and even a 20 Amp controller, gets to the point where the frt. tire will break loose on occasion. That can be fun, depends.
I never have used a Phaserunner, but I'm not sure if I would use a $300 controller on a $60 motor. If you go that route. why not go cheap on the first build (you WILL do more) and see what you like before spending the big bucks? Put the $$ in the batt., it's goes from bike to bike.
As far as budget controllers go, you can go two directions. A sine-wave/diplay w/ 5 "imitation" torque settings is soft -start, has a nice PAS and lot's of stuff to play with for the Techie inclined. But they are weak, not sure if there is anything new, but most of them are a soft 17 Amps. Not too many choices in the 20 to 25 A range. I run a genaric 17A square-wave on my Q100, but it's only a 2 Kg. motor.
Personally, if I lived where you do, I'd run a little, old skol, hot-rod 25 Amp 6-FET Infineon. Ebike CA is out of stk. and Cellman no longer sells them, maybe have Lyen custom program one(set the LVC for what ever pack Voltage you end up with). He has some cool add-ons too.
http://www.lyen.com/
The PAS is a little crude on these older designs, but 3 speed is good enough w/ a 22 MPH top,speed (BTW, you only need 48 Volts to get that).
It might sound counter intuitive to run a stout controller for climbing hills, but think about it this way. The longer you maintain mnomentum, the farther you can get before falling down to that dreaded "half of the no-load top speed", where the motor starts to make more heat than forward motion. Never "lug" a hub motor.
Speaking of hills, if they are only "blocks" long and you can get a good run on it, this set-up will climb really steep hills. It's the long grinds on a hot day that will cause prob.s. And even then, it's more likely going to be melted wires, connectors or controller before the motor melts nthe windings (but I've done it, @ 68 Volts!).
Not sure if that motor has a temp. (white wire) sensor, probably not. Might be a little hard to know with the 9-pin connector (that's what that motor uses, as most mini's and even middie's do). You don't really need to monitor motor temp. Stop and put your hand on it. If can leave it there, it's fine.
Any how, if I had that motor/whl. needing a build, that's what I would do.