Truckrun 250w hub + ZNZK Controller

Hello Forum,

i have bought are used ebike kit, unfortunately the seller did not have the pas sensor nor any documentation.

The motor is branded 'Plenty' and is made by Wuxi Truckrun Motor, 250w geared.

The controller is branded 'ZNZK Controller' 15A/7A product number ZN02-M6PLT. It has a wierd mix between normal sm and waterproof julet connectors (these are branded YLS but are identical to julet). The motor phase wires are separate with a separate motor hall sensor connector. There is a 9-pin Julet/YLS breakout cable conecting 2x brake switches 1x control unit(only 3 button + leds) 1x 3pin what i assume is throttle and 1x 2pin for light? The pas cable on the controller has a male end. There also seems to be a 4pin display connector. Although i dont know which displays could fit.

I can't find anything on the web on either the motor, nor the controller. I have ordered a pas sensor only to find out, that i cant connect it because it has the same connector as the controller.

How do i go from here? Is it safe to connect the pas sensor with some jumper cables to the other male connector for testing purposes or do i risk breaking the controller/pas sensor?

Wuxi Truckrun Motor

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Who is this really?
Jus kidding, I thought I had seen all the goofy names, but I guess not.
It seems what you have is a genaric mini-motor and 6-FET controller that's a clone of something (show us a pic of the motor if you are curious The controller could be square wave or sine wave, we would have to see the display to know). The fact that is a clone doesn't necessarily mean it's any better or worse than the rest of the stuff, the lines get rather blurry in regards to who makes what.
As far as documentation, if it ever exisited, it wouldn't be much. It too would be rather genaric. Look at vendor's sites that sell controllers and look at connection diagrams for a controller like the one you have
Unless one buys a "factory" ebike or maybe a "water-proof" kit (which I guess is what that was originally), mismatched connectors (or connectors not worth using) when putting these kits on a bike is an every day occurence. So if this frustrates you, perhaps you are venturing into the wrong hobby Most everything w/ a name or a label on these things doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

It would have been more useful to show us the wires/cables coming out of the controller ( We don't really need to see the insides of any more genaric controllers). I'm not exactly sure what you are asking, but perhaps some of this basic info will be useful.
The big 9-pin connectors are readily available as an extension cable which you can cut and you then have a male and female end (BMS Battery, Luna, Ebike CA, Amazon, Ebay and many others). I' ve never used the small ones, but they are probably avail. too, probably as a "Y" harrness or an extension, so you will probably have to do some soldering. Ck those vendors or maybe someone here knows where they are avail.
You can use simple wire nuts to test connections.
Most everything except the power wires can be connected incorrectly without damaging anything.

I would also suggest you make use of the tutorials and the search engine which would add to your knowledge of the in's and out's of ebike care and feeding.

motomech said:

Wuxi Truckrun Motor

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Who is this really?
Jus kidding, I thought I had seen all the goofy names, but I guess not.

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Here is their website https://www.truckrunmotor.com

I have added a few pictures of the controller and motor. Yes everything is pretty straightforward, except the pas sensor which is a male connector. If the pinout is different e.g. 5v and ground is switched i could potentially fry the pas sensor. Thats why i was asking.

I can probe which of the pins is 5v on the controller side, but which of the pins on the pas sensor is used for 5v?

Look at vendor's sites that sell controllers and look at connection diagrams for a controller like the one you have
Unless one buys a "factory" ebike or maybe a "water-proof" kit (which I guess is what that was originally), mismatched connectors (or connectors not worth using) when putting these kits on a bike is an every day occurence.

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Thats the thing, i havent found any controller with these kind of connections and with a male pas sensor wire. The Controller is how it came from the factory.

So if this frustrates you, perhaps you are venturing into the wrong hobby

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I am more frustrated with trying to pull the cranks off of a 30 year old mtb ;D

Here is their website https://www.truckrunmotor.com

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Couldn't find any info on any controller, strange. Good to know they sell masks though.

Yes everything is pretty straightforward, except the pas sensor which is a male connector. If the pinout is different e.g. 5v and ground is switched i could potentially fry the pas sensor.

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No it won't. Countless folks have had to go thru wire matching ritual, no burned hall sensors.

I can probe which of the pins is 5v on the controller side, but which of the pins on the pas sensor is used for 5v?

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Hard to say, there is no universal color scream, often when I buy a controller w/out a PAS feature and I buy a stand-lone PAS, the colors don't match, even from the same vendor. As I recall, most sets of 3 PAS wires from the controller have a brown in there, like blk. red, br or gr, red brown.
It doesn't matter, as I understand it, you are going to have to add a connector, whether it be half a Higo or another connector altogether, so you have the three PAS, wires right? Just try the different combos, assuming red (if there is one) is hot. In fact, if you want to continue to look with a multimeter and there is a red wire, you should get your 5 Volts across it and one of the other wires. Not easy to see a signal, you would have to spin the crank, and even then it will momentary.
And we are not done yet.
If the disc is on the chain-ring side (where most put it, in fact, I cut the disc and epoxy it inside the sm chain-ring to avoid pulling the crank), you will have to turn the sensor around 180 degrees. Once you do that, only one screw can be used, but it will stay in place. Also, the sensor needs to be very close to the disc.
And lastly, since I usually don't pull the crak, I usually can't install the sensor bracket as intended (didn't work out when I tried), i bend the bracket to where it conforms to the underside of the bottom bracket and after I've mocked everything up and it works, I epoxy it there.

Also, the motor looks like a copy of a Bafang, which is usually the case.
The free whl. with a 14T sm gear is going to useless to pedal along @ anything over 15 mph. You will not be able to pedal fast enough. You need one w/ a 11T gear, or at least a 12T.
And the spokes will need to be ck'ed for tightness.
Kit came with a torque arm, right?

motomech said:

The free whl. with a 14T sm gear is going to useless to pedal along @ anything over 15 mph. You will not be able to pedal fast enough. You need one w/ a 11T gear, or at least a 12T.
And the spokes will need to be ck'ed for tightness.
Kit came with a torque arm, right?

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The old bike only had a 15T sprocket in back. So the 14T already is a little longer. I do live in germany, so 25kph or 15,62mph is the max. allowed speed. One kph more will get you arrested and charged with terrorism. :lol:

I will check the spokes for tightness. The kit did not come with a torque arm.

Anyway, its all together now. See the pictures attached for how i connected the pas until the female julet wire arrives.

There is still one small problem with the pas and that is, that motor runs when pedaling backwards. This is the sensor used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001022596303.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76154c4d85hvwF
I guess there is nothing i can do about it, without a proper display or manual to change the pas settings.

Thanks for your help!

Ok, now all you have to do with the PAS is turn the sensor around (180 degrees) on the bracket. only one of the screws will line up, but it's enough to hold it place.
You MUST install a torque arm. If the axle spins in the drop-outs, it will ruin the bike,...and your day.

motomech said:

Ok, now all you have to do with the PAS is turn the sensor around (180 degrees) on the bracket. only one of the screws will line up, but it's enough to hold it place.
You MUST install a torque arm. If the axle spins in the drop-outs, it will ruin the bike,...and your day.

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Sorry, i missed a important part. The motor runs regardless of which way i pedal, forward or backward.

There is no torque arm, but i think i am ok without one. Its a steel frame, the axle is machined flat on two sides and fits very tightly into the dropouts. There are also two keyed washers on either side.

Meyerlein said:

motomech said:

You MUST install a torque arm. If the axle spins in the drop-outs, it will ruin the bike,...and your day.

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There is no torque arm, but i think i am ok without one. Its a steel frame, the axle is machined flat on two sides and fits very tightly into the dropouts. There are also two keyed washers on either side.

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It looks like your bike has vertical dropouts. If so, the tabbed washers can do nothing to resist reaction torque. Remember the axle wants to spin in the opposite direction from the wheel, so the washer tab has nothing to bear against on the forward side.

When something goes wrong, remember motomech warned you.