I Am Buying A Kit For My Trike

EarlB

10 mW
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
23
Miami Sun Trike. I want 20 mph, slightly plus. I may never ride it that fast, but I want it available. I've been pedaling this anchor for years. I am 74 years old, I just can't do it the same anymore. Mounting and dismounting is the issue cause by physical incapacities. To get to my VA hospital and more distant clinic I figure 40-45 miles round trip. There are several hills, one is quite long and about 30-35 degrees. That Sun Trike does not like hills; even with the five speed I put on it. Without tearing old injuries, I average 6 mph on the flat into a light wind. I have had a Honda Helix with training wheels since 2009, so I understand and KNOW the dynamics of three wheels and speed.

I am looking at a leaf front wheel kit; 1500 watts and 52 volt 20 amp battery. Will that serve me well? If it goes too fast, I will never use the extra speed. I just want to be certain that I have the 20mph and definite 40-45 mile range. That trike is hard to pedal. Hills tear old injuries.

If I can't find the right kit, I will just put any cheap one on and get a rear engine kit from Staton Inc. , and have two wheel drive. A good electric kit would be a lot less complication.

Thanks for any advice. Already, I see in here that there there are slow winds and fast winds.
 
EarlB said:
Miami Sun Trike. I want 20 mph, slightly plus. I may never ride it that fast, but I want it available.

I've worked on a whole lot of trikes, and believe me when I tell you-- you really don't want to go that fast, ever, on a granny trike. They get very treacherous and you will hurt yourself. Your Helix doesn't twist itself up like a granny trike and try to flip over, so it's not a good basis of comparison. You are at an age and state of health where you're no longer allowed to pile into the ground that hard.

15 mph is plenty on a granny trike. It's like the 30 mph of trikes. You'll still have to be very careful, because the trike still wants to put you on your head at that speed. The good news is that for any given amount of electric power, the trike will accelerate and climb harder the lower its top speed is. Also, your battery will take you a lot farther at a lower speed.

The Leaf 1500W is a great kit; I use a front one on my own 29" bike. One of its best features in your case is that you can get whatever winding you want at no extra cost, to give you the correct motor RPM per volt for what you're doing. Because RPM per volt and torque per amp trade off against each other directly, getting just enough RPM per volt will maximize the amount of torque you have available from the stock controller.

The unloaded motor speed needs to be about 1.25 times your desired top speed in a case like this where there's an abundance of power. So that means you're looking at an unloaded speed of about 260 RPM for a 24 inch wheel, or 240 RPM if you're using a 26 inch wheel. Leaf will set you up with the most appropriate winding if you tell them what unloaded RPM you want. It will probably be a 9 turn armature if you're using a 48 volt battery.
 
That trike has really bad turning and handling characteristics. I'd also keep it below 15mph because the realistic turning speed this type of bike can handle is more like 5mph. You can't make an emergency turn at high speed without being flipped over.

If we were talking about a trike with two wheels up front... that'd be a totally different story.
 
I believe you guys! I remember going down a hill that I struggled hard to top, and it was scary! Yes, I am at the age where injury is a fear. I am more durable than most at my age, but I've noticed that I have even slowed down with my Helix! I worry about deer bouncing out in front of me. I think I had better pass the DMV eye exam in October. Probably still getting a hub for my trike, but with lowered aspirations. I will talk with someone at leaf before ordering something. Will 48 volts and 20 amps get me 40-45 miles on a trike. I weigh 170 pounds. Is their any advantage to getting 52 volts and 20 amps?
 
EarlB said:
Will 48 volts and 20 amps get me 40-45 miles on a trike. I weigh 170 pounds. Is their any advantage to getting 52 volts and 20 amps?

That's about 1 kWh, and it could easily carry you 40 miles (or not) depending on your trike's configuration, your local terrain, and how many stops and starts you have along the way.

On my bikes, which weigh 450-500 pounds with me on them, and which I ride at about 20 mph with plenty of stopping and starting, I could expect to go 20-25 miles on a 1 kWh battery. If you weigh less and go slower, 40 mile range is not an unrealistic expectation.

Not every battery that claims 20Ah can deliver on that claim.

A higher voltage battery contains more energy at the same Ah capacity, but it will make the motor turn faster and use more energy too.
 
A bike that does 15-20mph won't need much of a battery or much of a motor. I'd consider at the largest, using a 500w geared motor on 36v or so.
 
neptronix said:
A bike that does 15-20mph won't need much of a battery or much of a motor. I'd consider at the largest, using a 500w geared motor on 36v or so.

I have a few hills, and one long steep one. My Sun Trike is hard to pedal. I can't stand up and pedal! It is ALL with my legs. Very little body weight. I don't want to regret being underpowered. Years back I
had an electric scooter to buzz around my little town, and it was very disappointing.
 
For what it's worth: if you use a big direct drive motor like Leaf 1500W on your trike, you won't pedal it unpowered any more. There's enough drag that it doesn't really make sense that way.

If you use a geared motor with an overrunning clutch (like MAC, BMC, eZee, or Bafang BPM), then the trike will be heavier but not draggier when you pedal it without motor power.
 
Is there a consensus opinion on the size of hub and battery I need to meet my needs? I am looking at you folks as the professionals. Already, I know more than before coming here, but now, I am just confused. I expect that I am generally going to get fractions of what sellers promise. I am now resigned to less than 20 mph. I thought we were there, then you say a 20 amp hour battery may not be 20 amp hours. Is Leaf going to sell me a good battery?
 
EarlB said:
Is Leaf going to sell me a good battery?

Leaf is a reputable seller that publishes test results etc, and I expect the batteries they offer are as claimed. It's mostly the cheap batteries from unknown eBay and AliExpress sellers that require you to derate your expectations.

Leaf 1500W is a lot of motor for the job you're trying to do. It's a good motor, and the correct winding will give you excellent performance. But you can get really good sub-20 mph performance from a smaller, lighter hub motor that might let you coast more freely. Where the Leaf excels is in being able to get the right winding for your application.
 
EarlB said:
neptronix said:
A bike that does 15-20mph won't need much of a battery or much of a motor. I'd consider at the largest, using a 500w geared motor on 36v or so.

I have a few hills, and one long steep one. My Sun Trike is hard to pedal. I can't stand up and pedal! It is ALL with my legs. Very little body weight. I don't want to regret being underpowered. Years back I
had an electric scooter to buzz around my little town, and it was very disappointing.

A 500w motor will have 1000w of peak power on tap and pretty easily scale a hill with some pedal assistance.

leafbike's 1500w motor is a 1900w rated motor in disguise. I hit 60mph on that motor, and probably could have topped out at 70mph before i hit saturation. You really don't need such a large and powerful motor.

Your bike is not all that safe safe under pedal power. Try turning your trike at 10mph and you will probably fall. Now imagine that fall at 30mph when you make an emergency steering maneuver.

leafbike is not known for their battery or controller quality. I would recommend another known trusted vendor such as ebikes.ca or em3ev for your battery needs and controller needs.
 
EarlB said:
Is there a consensus opinion on the size of hub and battery I need to meet my needs? I am looking at you folks as the professionals. Already, I know more than before coming here, but now, I am just confused. I expect that I am generally going to get fractions of what sellers promise. I am now resigned to less than 20 mph. I thought we were there, then you say a 20 amp hour battery may not be 20 amp hours. Is Leaf going to sell me a good battery?

Glad you trust our opinion, you've got a long term bike mechanic and the guy who made the leafbike motor popular on the line here.

In order to find the appropriate size battery and motor etc for your application, i strongly advise you check out the ebikes.ca motor simulator. It's the first tool i use to determine how to design a powertrain. Many popular hub motors have been put through dyno testing by justin of ebikes.ca for our community's benefit.

https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
 
I don't see how motor weight is remotely relevant for this situation. A DD front hub motor is a fine solution for this sort of setup. As long as he adds torque arms I don't see any problem. The only problem with leaf bike motors is that they have very fast windings, which is excessive for this application.

Might be worth to look at this company, I don't have any personal experience with them but they seem like a nice company:

https://www.ebikekit.com/collections/tricycle-kits

They have a few other websites were they sell upright trikes with motors and things like that. This one is nice because it comes with built-in reverse and locking brake handles so you can get out of the bike without it trying to roll away. And it's tuned to the speeds that are required.

The ebikes.ca simulator is the way to go for checking range. It's down right now, unfortunately.

I would go with the 10ah or 20ah battery. Usually bigger is better. But these kits run on the more expensive side. Might want to look to Em3ev for a battery or something like that.

The nice thing about buying everything from one company is that it'll plug all together. Otherwise you'll end up having to swap connections and such things to get everything lined up.
 
sleepy_tired said:
Might be worth to look at this company, I don't have any personal experience with them but they seem like a nice company:

https://www.ebikekit.com/collections/tricycle-kits
Yeah, a nice guy and a reliable source but the prices are greatly inflated. EZee and MAC are better motors, IMO.
For a time Luna sold the same kits for significantly less. No PAS just a throttle. MEH!
 
sleepy_tired said:
I don't see how motor weight is remotely relevant for this situation. A DD front hub motor is a fine solution for this sort of setup. As long as he adds torque arms I don't see any problem. The only problem with leaf bike motors is that they have very fast windings, which is excessive for this application.

Might be worth to look at this company, I don't have any personal experience with them but they seem like a nice company:

https://www.ebikekit.com/collections/tricycle-kits

They have a few other websites were they sell upright trikes with motors and things like that. This one is nice because it comes with built-in reverse and locking brake handles so you can get out of the bike without it trying to roll away. And it's tuned to the speeds that are required.

The ebikes.ca simulator is the way to go for checking range. It's down right now, unfortunately.

I would go with the 10ah or 20ah battery. Usually bigger is better. But these kits run on the more expensive side. Might want to look to Em3ev for a battery or something like that.

The nice thing about buying everything from one company is that it'll plug all together. Otherwise you'll end up having to swap connections and such things to get everything lined up.

I had zeroed in on this guys. I emailed hem. they told me to find one of their local dealers. Their "local dealers" are a 1,000 miles away from me. I had watched another site that has Phoenix kits that looked good. i sent an email with my phone number. A man called me Sunday afternoon and went on an hour long rant about Jesus sending me to him, Trump's family all going to mental asylums, the end of gas engines, my pride, how I don't know anything, and a lot I can't even remember. After a while I started comparing him to Charlie Manson. Yeah, he sounded like a Big Tech Silicon Valley Charlie Manson. He got into my head. He was in my head all Monday morning. His phone is the San Francisco area. I'm passing on the Phoenix Brute, which sounded perfect for me. That guy is scary!

I found a Shuck on amazon. 500 watt geared 36/48 volts 265-325 rpm, rated current 11 amps max current 22 amps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0868F1BY9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A348QL9CPMT0SW&psc=1

Found a battery if it will plug in. 48 V 20 AMP https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088RH4G3C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A323YRGVBR4QGU&psc=1

I need torque bars. Should I put two on? AM I DOING ANYTHING WRONG? The generic Chinese Motors are very similar, are they not? Kinda rolling the dice?
 
sleepy_tired said:
I don't see how motor weight is remotely relevant for this situation. A DD front hub motor is a fine solution for this sort of setup. As long as he adds torque arms I don't see any problem. The only problem with leaf bike motors is that they have very fast windings, which is excessive for this application.

Leaf Bike motors have whatever winding you ask for. If you don't specify, they give you a fast one.

The weight of a direct drive motor may not be relevant to this application, but the drag is. Pedaling a big direct drive hub without power is a bummer (though probably less so at granny trike speed).
 
Chalo said:
sleepy_tired said:
I don't see how motor weight is remotely relevant for this situation. A DD front hub motor is a fine solution for this sort of setup. As long as he adds torque arms I don't see any problem. The only problem with leaf bike motors is that they have very fast windings, which is excessive for this application.

Leaf Bike motors have whatever winding you ask for. If you don't specify, they give you a fast one.

The weight of a direct drive motor may not be relevant to this application, but the drag is. Pedaling a big direct drive hub without power is a bummer (though probably less so at granny trike speed).

My tricycle is hard to pedal even with the 5 speed hub I put on it. I do not need any extra weight or drag. If Leaf will sell me a "slow wind" will that 500 watt geared hub do the job on the few hills I have? I woke up thinking about the 265-325 rpm. Seems too fast! BUT! The 265 rpm is close to the 260 rpm you suggested. I do physical things by feel. I will know when it is too fast. My Honda Helix can run 65-70, but I like 45 and 50; maybe 55 with no traffic and no trees and brush for deer to hop out of. I know where the deer are, and 45 is it in those areas. I have been in the same house, going to the same places since 1985. I rode an 86 Honda Gryo that maxed under 30 mph for until Japan refused to send parts for it in 2007. I KNOW the traffic patterns and flows, and I know what people can do to small vehicles. Two really stupid well intentioned women drivers just about took me out on my Helix a couple years back. I still have reflexes for an old geezer.

Someone please take look at the 500 watt geared hub I'm looking at on Amazon. If the kit and battery are any good I could be electric for under a $1000. Reverse would be sweet, but I am Spartan enough to do without it. I can put two fork supports on, right? Sun Trike IS steel; checked with a magnet, but I try to error on the side of caution.
 
I'm passing on the Phoenix Brute, which sounded perfect for me. That guy is scary!

I would too. That sounds like a very unfortunate phone call.

I found a Shuck on amazon. 500 watt geared 36/48 volts 265-325 rpm, rated current 11 amps max current 22 amps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0868 ... T0SW&psc=1

Found a battery if it will plug in. 48 V 20 AMP https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088R ... 4QGU&psc=1

I need torque bars. Should I put two on? AM I DOING ANYTHING WRONG? The generic Chinese Motors are very similar, are they not? Kinda rolling the dice?

Well cheap motors are OK. My current ebike originally had a "Yescomusa" kit, which is about the cheapest possible setup you can have. I have since upgraded the controller, added Cycle Analyst v3, added PAS sensor, and upgraded the throttle.

The rims and throttles tend to be weakest link in very cheap kits. You get these heavy, but poorly built, rims with thick spokes. The thick spokes tend to loosen up over time and will break, but if you periodically check your spoke tension then you'll be find and you can get a lot of miles out of them. Plenty of people have, just have to be aware. Throttles will wear out, but they are not difficult to replace as long as you are comfortable changing connections.

A inexpensive brand that people seem to have a lot of luck with is ebikeling. I wouldn't mind having one of their "waterproof" kits.

Since you can replace and upgrade components it's not a bad idea to go with cheap kits as long as you don't mind tinkering. A mechanically inclined person with basic tools and a multimeter shouldn't have a problem.

The advantage to spending more money on a better quality kit boils down to features, build quality of the wheels, better/easier to use connections, and small things like that.


The place to spend your money, if you are on a budget, is on a high quality battery. This is the heart of the ebike and cheap batteries can ruin your week. Internal shorts and other problems can shorten the battery life and even cause fires. So you don't want to skimp on the battery.

I don't have personal experience with Unitpackpower, but they have a decent reputation for producing inexpensive batteries. They are a manufacturer and not a reseller, which is a plus. I've heard of a couple fires, but now they claim that their cells are individually fused. I don't know if this is a new thing, but it's better then most other cheap brands.

They produce batteries with generic "2500mah" Chinese cells as well as name brand cells from Sanyo/Samsung/Panasonic. The name brand cells are much more desirable. I am sure that the generic cells are not terrible, things have improved quite a bit over the years, but I would still want the name brand ones if I had a choice. They will usually tell you in the description, if it is something like "Powerfull 2500mah cells", then it's using generic cells. If it's name brand cells they will tell you the brand. They also have warehouses in the USA that are stocked with some of their batteries, which should (in theory) help speed up the process.

If I was to buy a battery today I would try to order one from Em3ev. They produce the best batteries that I am aware of and are not significantly more expensive then other battery manufacturers. However I don't know the shipping situation for them, since everything is kinda jacked up for imports/exports right now it may be a problem.

I need torque bars. Should I put two on?

One is fine, unless you are doing regenerative braking (which most kits don't support). Especially for lower power motors. If your fork is steel and you are using a 250 watt class motor you can get away without them, but I would want to have them on anything more powerful then that.

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html

These are the best quality torque arms that I am aware of. It's what I use and they are very beefy.

Grin (ebikes.ca) produces some of the best kits you can find, but they are pricey.
 
Thanks! Especially for the link that shows what a torque arm is supposed to prevent. Seeing it is better than reading about it. I think I am a two torque arm guy. I am learning a lot from you folks!


sleepy_tired said:
I'm passing on the Phoenix Brute, which sounded perfect for me. That guy is scary!

I would too. That sounds like a very unfortunate phone call.

I found a Shuck on amazon. 500 watt geared 36/48 volts 265-325 rpm, rated current 11 amps max current 22 amps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0868 ... T0SW&psc=1

Found a battery if it will plug in. 48 V 20 AMP https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088R ... 4QGU&psc=1

I need torque bars. Should I put two on? AM I DOING ANYTHING WRONG? The generic Chinese Motors are very similar, are they not? Kinda rolling the dice?

Well cheap motors are OK. My current ebike originally had a "Yescomusa" kit, which is about the cheapest possible setup you can have. I have since upgraded the controller, added Cycle Analyst v3, added PAS sensor, and upgraded the throttle.

The rims and throttles tend to be weakest link in very cheap kits. You get these heavy, but poorly built, rims with thick spokes. The thick spokes tend to loosen up over time and will break, but if you periodically check your spoke tension then you'll be find and you can get a lot of miles out of them. Plenty of people have, just have to be aware. Throttles will wear out, but they are not difficult to replace as long as you are comfortable changing connections.

A inexpensive brand that people seem to have a lot of luck with is ebikeling. I wouldn't mind having one of their "waterproof" kits.

Since you can replace and upgrade components it's not a bad idea to go with cheap kits as long as you don't mind tinkering. A mechanically inclined person with basic tools and a multimeter shouldn't have a problem.

The advantage to spending more money on a better quality kit boils down to features, build quality of the wheels, better/easier to use connections, and small things like that.


The place to spend your money, if you are on a budget, is on a high quality battery. This is the heart of the ebike and cheap batteries can ruin your week. Internal shorts and other problems can shorten the battery life and even cause fires. So you don't want to skimp on the battery.

I don't have personal experience with Unitpackpower, but they have a decent reputation for producing inexpensive batteries. They are a manufacturer and not a reseller, which is a plus. I've heard of a couple fires, but now they claim that their cells are individually fused. I don't know if this is a new thing, but it's better then most other cheap brands.

They produce batteries with generic "2500mah" Chinese cells as well as name brand cells from Sanyo/Samsung/Panasonic. The name brand cells are much more desirable. I am sure that the generic cells are not terrible, things have improved quite a bit over the years, but I would still want the name brand ones if I had a choice. They will usually tell you in the description, if it is something like "Powerfull 2500mah cells", then it's using generic cells. If it's name brand cells they will tell you the brand. They also have warehouses in the USA that are stocked with some of their batteries, which should (in theory) help speed up the process.

If I was to buy a battery today I would try to order one from Em3ev. They produce the best batteries that I am aware of and are not significantly more expensive then other battery manufacturers. However I don't know the shipping situation for them, since everything is kinda jacked up for imports/exports right now it may be a problem.

I need torque bars. Should I put two on?

One is fine, unless you are doing regenerative braking (which most kits don't support). Especially for lower power motors. If your fork is steel and you are using a 250 watt class motor you can get away without them, but I would want to have them on anything more powerful then that.

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html

These are the best quality torque arms that I am aware of. It's what I use and they are very beefy.

Grin (ebikes.ca) produces some of the best kits you can find, but they are pricey.
 
I think I have found it. Leaf has responded to me. This is the motor: https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/24-inch-48v-52v-1500w-front-hub-motor-bike-conversion-kit-1072.html He will set it up for the max speed I want. I am going with 20 mph, assuming that I will be moving closer to 15. I have miles of open road with no obstructions and traffic. I will know what is right when I feel it. It is rated 90% efficient, whatever that means in the ebike world, It has reverse, and it is regenerative. I feel like I am going to have a lot of understated dormant power. He suggested a battery, but i picked a different one: https://www.leafbike.com/products/lithium-battery/52v-20ah-rack-lithium-ion-battery-1221.html It says 2000 charge cycles. LOL! I may not live that much longer. And it weighs twice as much as the one he suggested. If that means anything. So! I need two torque arms. I want a new tire. I think I want one of those with the really thick orange layer that resists flats. I need a gel seat, and a springy seat post would be nice. I think..... Any thoughts on that? I have good front and rear lights, and big Red, white, blue, and yellow reflectors all over my tricycle. I can't wait for my grandson and I to put this kit in together. A week ago we set a Rad City up for his wife, and that was a lot of fun. He got on that Rad and was like a little kid again. He was so excited by the power and speed. He doesn't know it yet, but he will be getting himself an ebike soon.

Anyway! Someone please take a quick look at what I am getting before I pull the trigger tomorrow. I want some input from people who understand everything I have been looking at for the last two weeks. I now know just enough to get myself into trouble. I really appreciate you guys!
 
EarlB said:
It has reverse, and it is regenerative.

Take care with regenerative braking. The reversing torque applied to the axle will loosen the axle nuts, spread out your fork tips, and even tear through the flats in most torque arms. Forward drive only is a lot easier to keep in check, without damaging your motor and axle and possibly ejecting your wheel at speed. I don't think it's worth it. Get a good rim brake or disc brake (depending what your trike is equipped to use) and save yourself some grief.

https://www.leafbike.com/products/lithium-battery/52v-20ah-rack-lithium-ion-battery-1221.html It says 2000 charge cycles. LOL! I may not live that much longer.

That battery isn't made of lithium iron phosphate cells or lithium titanate cells, so 2000 cycles is a gross exaggeration. Regular lithium cobalt cells don't even have that much shelf life, let alone cycle life. If it gets to 2000 cycles, it will be at a small fraction of its original capacity.
 
Two points:

1) Seat ... I have tried a number but the only ones I will purchase now are Cloud 9. There may be others out there that are just as good but one can be assured that Cloud 9 will always be among the very best.
https://cloud-9.bike/

2) As I only run front geared hubs the question of regenerative braking is not one I have ever paid much attention to. However I have wondered just how it affects the limited number of recycles ... especially for lithium-cobalt batteries which is low to begin with.
 
Thank you. Most of my routine use will be jogging my dog around town. and my goal has always been to get completely around town(3 miles) without using my brakes one time. I've done it many times. Cars get in the way. Maybe a a couple times a month, I will go into Iowa City. I cannot see me needing reverse at all. It is just there. I will find a better rim brake and extra pads. I will put two GOOD torque arms on. And I will keep an axle wrench on the trike. Should locktite be put on the Axel nuts?

Yeah. I was skeptical of the 2,000 cycles. I was thinking maybe that means charging it every time I ride even if it is only three miles. ???? The battery suggested is triangular and just would not fit nicely anywhere on my trike. The battery I'm buying can be put into a locked( When I go into the City) plastic tool box bolted with fender washers into my rear basket. Honestly: The battery may last longer than I do.
Do lithium batteries like to be kept fully charged?

Any thoughts about Tannus tires?

My dog will soon be jogging along side me again. A slow jog of three miles is all he wants. I want to visit neighboring towns.


Chalo said:
EarlB said:
It has reverse, and it is regenerative.

Take care with regenerative braking. The reversing torque applied to the axle will loosen the axle nuts, spread out your fork tips, and even tear through the flats in most torque arms. Forward drive only is a lot easier to keep in check, without damaging your motor and axle and possibly ejecting your wheel at speed. I don't think it's worth it. Get a good rim brake or disc brake (depending what your trike is equipped to use) and save yourself some grief.

https://www.leafbike.com/products/lithium-battery/52v-20ah-rack-lithium-ion-battery-1221.html It says 2000 charge cycles. LOL! I may not live that much longer.

That battery isn't made of lithium iron phosphate cells or lithium titanate cells, so 2000 cycles is a gross exaggeration. Regular lithium cobalt cells don't even have that much shelf life, let alone cycle life. If it gets to 2000 cycles, it will be at a small fraction of its original capacity.
 
I am looking at Could 9 this morning. I finalIy feel like I am ready to order everything! just contemplating tires. The tires on the trike are old. Not used that much, just old. I bought got the trike after it sat in a man's garage for a couple years. He was a huge guy and lived on top of a hill. He tried it once and busted a spoke trying to pedal that trike up a steep hill. It was a three speed. I put a five speed hub on it.(Didn't help very much.) I've had the trike for 5 years. It is ready for tires. I am looking at the Tannus tire liner.

LewTwo said:
Two points:

1) Seat ... I have tried a number but the only ones I will purchase now are Cloud 9. There may be others out there that are just as good but one can be assured that Cloud 9 will always be among the very best.
https://cloud-9.bike/

2) As I only run front geared hubs the question of regenerative braking is not one I have ever paid much attention to. However I have wondered just how it affects the limited number of recycles ... especially for lithium-cobalt batteries which is low to begin with.
 
EarlB said:
Honestly: The battery may last longer than I do.
That is what I thought some six years ago when I purchased my Golden Motor kit. Now that LiFePO4 battery pack will barely get me to the grocery store and back (about 5 miles round trip) ... on the other hand it is still getting me there and back but I top it off for a couple hours just prior to going to the store.

EarlB said:
It is ready for tires. I am looking at the Tannus tire liner.
I am rebuilding my main bike (Grocery Getter). I run Schwalbe Big Apple Raceguard 28x2 which is the largest tire I can fit in the rear frame. Strangely enough I only seem to get flats on the rear wheel but those are inconvenient enough to add Tannus tire liners as well. All I can tell you about them at present is that they come packed in a small box folded up like pretzels. It takes three afternoons in the Texas Sun for stress relief for them to return to a circular form.
 
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