Problem opening motor

Hello, I have a BLDC motor with a broken hall sensor, it looks like a bafang one, and I need to open it. I removed the screws from the back, but the cover does not come off... It's tightly sealed, I tried to put a knife where I see the cut and hammering it, but it just ruin the metal.
I attached 2 pictures, hope you can help me, I don't know what to try now...

Thanks!

It appears to be some type of geared motor, and doesn't look like the side with the screws is a cover that comes off. I don't see screws on the other side. I'd really need to see it in person, but first look for a seam for a cover on the side without screws. My guess would be that you need to tap on the axle to push it through, or if you can find a seam for a cover on the side without screws, tap a flathead screwdriver into that seam after removing the screws on the other side. All my motors have screws and covers on both sides, which come off fairly easily using two flathead screwdrivers, but yours looks to be sealed up much better.

John

the bafang rear hub unscrews. you goobered it up if you hammered a knife in the crack. someone had a thread a while back about removing them. there are 3 holes for a pin spanner to use to unscrew it. the holes are under the freewheel i think.

ask holmes.

dnmun said:

the bafang rear hub unscrews. you goobered it up if you hammered a knife in the crack. someone had a thread a while back about removing them. there are 3 holes for a pin spanner to use to unscrew it. the holes are under the freewheel i think.

ask holmes.

Click to expand...

Not all Bafang rear hubs have covers that unscrew. I have one that is threaded on both covers for rear wheel use including a screw on disk brake adapter. The covers on both sides have screws, and after the screws are removed, the covers pop right off. A screw on cover in the OPs case would make sense considering the lack of screws in the cover(s).
John

Thank you for the suggestions... Uhm, it doesn't look very much like a bafang now that I found the other threads (I have never seen one in person, and I assumed that based on pictures I've seen). Later I'll look for dents or something to unscrew the cover. I see a little seam on the screw side, but tapping it with a knife did nothing (nothing but massive dents). I'll post a picture with a decent camera as soon as I get home.
Thank you all!!

i was thinking it was a bafang, but after looking at the pictures, i can see it is not, so you should be able to pull it off on that side. maybe something with freewheel thread will fit on the threads, and then you can use a bearing puller with the hooks around the freewheel and the center pushing on the end of the axle. i don't think it screws on as i thought originally when i thought you had the rear bafang.

I have both rear Bafangs. My old one had screws into the case and came off easily with a 5-1 paint tool after the screws are removed. My new one has the threaded cover and Holmes recommended either a pin spanner or a big channel lock pliers! I actually have one with a jaw opening that fits. I would use lots of masking tape on the jaws to protect the motor paint. I have the replacement gear set (one steel and 2 nylon) and unfortunately will probably have to use it when i get the new trike going.
otherDoc

This is a Currie I-Zip motor. I am positive as I just opened one up. The motor was destroyed before I opened it up so I wasn't super careful with it. The Hub is 2 pieces. The side with the six screw holes is red locktited into the other piece. Once it is apart you will see. It almost looks like threads but I don't think it is, I think it is ridges machined into the body and cap to help hold it together. Once apart I tried to screw it back on, but it wouldn't. One tap with a hammer and it went back together. By the way the newer ones have bolts. I did a lot of beating on mine but it never came apart, and seamed to still be turning freely on the bearings. I was impressed at its rubustness. When I did finally get it apart the motor showed signs of all the hammering it took.

So how to get apart and still reuse? I suspect the factory has a way. I bet that it screws onto where the frewheel screws onto and they have a device to hold the hub and pull it off. I think if you have a small pencil torch to breakdown the locktite and continue with the knife and hammer you might get it. It really is pretty tough.

I can take some pics of the destroyed unit if you want

I would say you need to make a board to bolt it too (those six screw holes), then try to turn the wheel to break the face off.

Damn chinese and their no-repair-buy-new-one policy!!! :x
Bad news:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/repairs.asp?qfid=5&Product=154
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78424

The RED loctite, the color of the fluid not the bottle, is a PERMANENT
Loctite and should only be used on components that you are not planning
to remove.

The BLUE loctite, the fluid, is removable loctite, one of the names it is
given is "Thread 'n lock" as it is placed onto the threads of the screw
or bolt and then screwed together. It will harden up after awhile and
prevent the bolt or screw from coming apart from vibration.

Click to expand...

So, I'm pretty screwed. I tried to heat the motor with a heat gun, hoping that the metal would expand breaking the adhesive, but I got no luck. The loctite breaks at 150°C so I will destroy anything plastic inside he motor before getting inside it. My guess is that the factory has a plate that screws on the six screw holes, then they turn the rim taking advantage of the lever to "unscrew" the cover. So, I tried to screw back two screws leaving them half out, and putting the wheel on my vise. Useless to say, I bent the screws.

Can you post the pictures of the opened motor? I'm just curious.
Other ideas to evaluate?
Thanks!

Here are the pics

Uhm... It really looks threaded. I'll have a real hard time getting into it, I don't think the loctite is going to give up anytime soon. Oh well.

I know it looks threaded, but I don't think it is. I tried screwing it back on but it wouldn't, I gave it light tap and it dropped right in. Without the locktite it popped back off ver easily.

If your problem is hall sensors, you can still use it with a RC Controller. I had an old version of the Turnigy HV and it worked fine till I blew it ( I wasn't using extra caps) I bought a new version Turnigy, but it won't sync. I currently use a Castle 110HV and it works Fine. I am running 12S3P A123 and hit about 23 MPH with no peddling.

I have the same problem. I can't open my hub motor (24v 250W)
My hub motor (front wheel) don't have cover for opening.

Can someone help me ?
Attached photos of hub motor.

Best regards.
Thank you.

It's a Bafang QSWX5. There are one or two tiny grub-screws in the edge just outside the spoke flange that have to be removed first. Most are right-handed threads, but there are some with left-handed ones. You need to make the tool, then use a lot of torque to unscrew it. Heat often helps if it's stuck. Heat up the hub with a hot air gun until it's just about too hot to touch.

Where exactly are these screws located? Could you draw the location of these screws on the photo ?

I appreciate your help

Bet regards,

Paulo.