The Specifications needed / Your suggestions appreciated
- Thread starter mike5ive
- Start date
SlowCo
1 MW
FS DH bike with BBSHD
justlooking808
100 W
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2021
- Messages
- 105
mike5ive said:
i have a modded ride1up core 5 that can do this and i weigh 270lb, have a battery in the back basket (about 7lbs) and can climb hills up to 30% grade(maybe more, but don't have one to test) at 14mph from a dead stop. i top out at 30mph on a 48v battery and can keep that speed all the way down to 44v. range is about 70 miles, but is a little overkill on this small island. :lol:
btw, it looks ugly as heck, but does it's job, so it's alright.
Chalo
100 TW
mike5ive said:
BBSHD is quieter than most hub motors. I don't know what you expect, but if you want 35 mph in a bike that can climb steep grades, you're going to be able to hear it.
The quietest option would be a 3kW direct drive hub with a sine wave or FOC controller, but if you put a heavy hub like that in a long travel suspension, the resulting bike will suck.
Chalo
100 TW
Suspension dampers make noise, and pivots creak. Derailleurs and chain tensioners make noise. Disc brakes make noise. Most freewheels and cassettes make noise when you coast.
If you want a very quiet bike, use a single speed coaster brake (crazy cheap) or an Onyx sprag clutch cassette hub (crazy expensive). Use smooth treaded tires (not too fat) but no suspension components--rigid fork and rigid frame. Get a direct drive front hub, like Leaf 1500W or Grin RH212. Mate it with an FOC controller.
"One by" gears with a clutched rear derailleur will prevent front derailleur scraping and substantially reduce chain slap on the frame, eliminating other sources of noise. The shifts are louder and clunkier, though. If you use disc brakes, organic pads are quieter than metallic pads, but they don't last as long.
Then there's maintenance. If you need a quiet bike, you'll have to keep the chain and other moving parts lubricated do they don't squeak, and keep the bearings adjusted to the correct tension so they don't knock or rattle. Use a saddle without springs or any metal parts other than the rails.
With a little restraint and ingenuity, you can have a bike that's maybe even quieter than walking.
If you're only looking to have a quiet motor drive (rather than an entirely quiet bike) so you can use trails where e-bikes are prohibited, well that's another problem that has an easier solution: Don't do it.
If you want a very quiet bike, use a single speed coaster brake (crazy cheap) or an Onyx sprag clutch cassette hub (crazy expensive). Use smooth treaded tires (not too fat) but no suspension components--rigid fork and rigid frame. Get a direct drive front hub, like Leaf 1500W or Grin RH212. Mate it with an FOC controller.
"One by" gears with a clutched rear derailleur will prevent front derailleur scraping and substantially reduce chain slap on the frame, eliminating other sources of noise. The shifts are louder and clunkier, though. If you use disc brakes, organic pads are quieter than metallic pads, but they don't last as long.
Then there's maintenance. If you need a quiet bike, you'll have to keep the chain and other moving parts lubricated do they don't squeak, and keep the bearings adjusted to the correct tension so they don't knock or rattle. Use a saddle without springs or any metal parts other than the rails.
With a little restraint and ingenuity, you can have a bike that's maybe even quieter than walking.
If you're only looking to have a quiet motor drive (rather than an entirely quiet bike) so you can use trails where e-bikes are prohibited, well that's another problem that has an easier solution: Don't do it.
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