PAS Sensor KT-D12FL problem

Hello All, hoping someone can help me please? I'm trying to repair an Ice Trike which has a 250w e-bike conversion kit fitted. It was working fine until the PAS Sensor was ripped off in an accident. I couldn't source a KT-D12FL as originally fitted, but was advised that KT-D12L was the same and would work - unfortunately, it doesn't! So potentially there is other damage, maybe the controller, but possibly there is a difference in output between KT-D12FL and KT-D12L.
Can anyone please advise if there is a difference between the two sensors and if so, any idea where I can get a KT-D12FL?
Thanks. Jon

Do they look the same? One might be for the left side and the other for the right side. Given an arbitary two piece PAS sensor, I've always thought there are two positions for the sensor and two for the disk, for a total of four possible fits, and only one is right.

Does it work if you spin the pedals backward? Flipping the magnet disk might fix that.

They look identical and fit on the left hand crank. The right side sensor is KT-D12R I believe. I must admit I haven't tried pedalling backwards, but will give it a go. Thanks

Jonrb101 said:

Can anyone please advise if there is a difference between the two sensors and if so, any idea where I can get a KT-D12FL?
Thanks. Jon

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If your bottom bracket is square tapered (Shimano), then you might consider the KT-V12L. It's self-contained, so you don't need to mess with disc and sensor placement/spacing.
https://www.amazon.com/Elecrtic-Bicycle-Assistant-Waterproof-Conversion/dp/B09C1ZXVG6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1HKNL0PHUALKB&keywords=kt-v12&qid=1642018364&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=kt-v12%2Csporting%2C184&sr=1-2

On the other hand, if you're choosing the ones you listed because they don't require crank arm removal, then the V12 wouldn't be your best choice.

Yes, BB is square tapered and both the original (KT-D12FL) and replacement (KT-D12L) come with a 12 magnet split disc, but removing the crank arm isn't a problem and the KT-V12L does look a more sturdy unit. The main issue is whether the output from the sensor is the same as the original, before I go down the road of changing controller etc. Thanks.

It may just be a setting issue and the wrong parameter is selected for the PAS, If one has an lcd to enter in to the C settings then make a change with C1 to value 1 if it isn't already so.

Thanks Hemo, I thought of that, but unfortunately, the KT-LCD1 display fitted doesn't let you make adjustments to the 'C' settings.

Yes, the LCD1 is pretty simple. I recently had to change the PAS sensor on a bike that uses the LCD1. The first one I installed worked in both directions, which I discovered while I was rotating the pedals and the bike took off and slammed into the garage wall. Glad it did not ram into my car, I believe the LCD3 would have been able to discriminate better.

Anyway, I found another PAS unit in my parts bin.

.

Jonrb101 said:

Thanks Hemo, I thought of that, but unfortunately, the KT-LCD1 display fitted doesn't let you make adjustments to the 'C' settings.

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Are you able to access the P settings, specifically P3 and P4?

Thanks for all your suggestions. I've tried them all and gone through the LCD settings without success. I'm thinking the problem can only be within the Controller as the motor still works on the thumb throttle. Would you agree with this or do you have any other suggestions please? Many thanks. Jon