Planning to, one day, replace my controller.

Joined
Mar 5, 2022
Messages
252
Location
Aptos, CA
Hi everyone, I'm thinking that I'll have to eventually replace my controller, or display. I'm not sure what to get for my motor. The bike is a Ride1Up 700 Series (link https://ride1up.com/product/700-series).

The motor is Shengyi. It's got a stamp that reads "SY2248700CUL3030PS1". After much searching, I've found out that this is 22 amp, 48 volt. That would make it a 1000w motor. This motor is for a 700C tire, which mine is 27.5 inches. I'm not sure what the rest (UL3030PS1) is. I think something to do with magnet size. This motor has the HiGo Z910 waterproof connection.

The existing controller is a Lishui 48 volt, 22 amp (max), Sine-wave (LSW1155-29-6M). I know that different controllers have different "communication protocols". A lot of newer controllers are KT type. Could I use a KT controller with my motor? Would they be able to communicate with each other? They have the same type HiGo Z910 connector, it seems.

Thanks for reading!
 
The motor and controller don't communicate, in the sense you're talking about.

The motor, if it has hall sensors, does produce signals the controller, if it is sensored type, will use to determine motor posiiton for smoother motor operation at low speeds and from a stop. But it's not really communication. THe controller produces the currents in teh phase wires that drive the motor, but that's not really communication either. Some motors have temperature sensors or speedometer sensors, that produce signals a controller can read, if they're setup for that.

THe controller and display do, if you have a display that comes with the controller (so it will be compatible, using the same protocol and data). If your display didn't come with the controller then there's a good chance it won't work fully or at all together (even if the connectors are the same).


There are many many different controllers, and different generations of some of them that may not be fully intercompatible with otherwise same model system parts (displays, etc). because of firmware changes over time. (not common, but it could happen)

Many controllers don't even have display options, so if you want a display, don't get those.


The best thing to do to figure out what controller to get is list the things you need it to do for you (including how you want to control it (throttle, pas and what kind, etc etc), and if you want a display, what you want that display to show you and any configuration options you want to have.

Then list the electrical requirements, of system voltage, current limit to protect against overloading your battery, current needed to drive your motor sufficiently to perform the way you need it to, etc.

Then you can look for ocntrollers that meet those specific requirements. It will probably narrow your field quite a lot, and make it easier to choose one from the remaining options.
 
Awesome info. Thank you for clarifying the communication.

My controller is installed in the frame, so I'd be looking for something of a similar size. I may be able to fit a 48v 35a max controller in there. My motor is 48v, 22a (max, I think, it's printed SY2248700CUL3030PS1). My battery is 48v 14ah. If I can't fit the 48v 35a max controller, a 48v 25a max controller should fit fine. I've been looking at kits that are the LCD8H display and a 48v 35a max controller. Would that play nice with my motor? This kit https://www.amazon.com/HalloMotor-B...6891914&sprefix=35a+controller,aps,118&sr=8-5
 
slaphappygamer said:
My controller is installed in the frame, so I'd be looking for something of a similar size.
If you want others to help you find one, you'd need to provide that size information.

I may be able to fit a 48v 35a max controller in there.
For example, the phaserunner is quite small and is much higher capability than that...but it doesn't use a display.

My motor is 48v, 22a (max, I think, it's printed SY2248700CUL3030PS1).
The motor phase current is not the same as the battery current, it can be much higher. So unless they specify what current that is supposed to be, it's tough to use it as a spec limit.

I would personally find it more likely that the first four digits are a model number of the motor, as typically I don't see current limits printed on them at all (can't actually remember ever seeing this). (wattages, sometimes).


My battery is 48v 14ah.
Unfortunatley that only tells you what voltage and capacity it is. It doesn't tell you what it's limits are, such as what current it could provide.

You can assume it would likely be ok to supply at least 1C, or 14A, but higher currents depend on the number and type of cells, construction, BMS, etc. If it has no information on it, and none from the manufacturer of the bike itself, then to be safe you could assume it cannot provide current any higher than what the original controller demanded of it. What was the original controller's current limit?
 
I'll have to measure the inner frame cavity to be more accurate, but the current controller is L 105mm x W 50mm x H 25mm. With the wiring, it's getting pretty tight. The Phaserunner would fit just fine, but I think I'd want a display. Cool device, though.

I'm not sure what is coming through the motor phase current, I could measure that. All I know of the motor is what I've already shared. I tried a search and everything.

Same with the battery. I don't know more than it's 48v 14ah battery and Reention makes it and that is also has "52x Samsung 35E Cells and Smart BMS".

The original controller has a rated current at 11a and 22a max. This is a 48v controller.
 
slaphappygamer said:
The Phaserunner would fit just fine, but I think I'd want a display.
Doesn't the Phaserunner have a connector for a Cycle Analyst?
 
slaphappygamer said:
I'll have to measure the inner frame cavity to be more accurate, but the current controller is L 105mm x W 50mm x H 25mm. With the wiring, it's getting pretty tight. The Phaserunner would fit just fine, but I think I'd want a display. Cool device, though.

I'm not sure what is coming through the motor phase current, I could measure that. All I know of the motor is what I've already shared. I tried a search and everything.

Same with the battery. I don't know more than it's 48v 14ah battery and Reention makes it and that is also has "52x Samsung 35E Cells and Smart BMS".

The original controller has a rated current at 11a and 22a max. This is a 48v controller.
Your battery is only good for 32A max, but likely better run below 25A. If you're upping your controller current in the future, you should start thinking including the upgrading of your battery too.
 
slaphappygamer said:
I'll have to measure the inner frame cavity to be more accurate, but the current controller is L 105mm x W 50mm x H 25mm. With the wiring, it's getting pretty tight. The Phaserunner would fit just fine, but I think I'd want a display. Cool device, though.

What are you trying to accomplish? What makes you think to need to swap these parts out?

If you're just restless to hack on an e-bike, why not find a broken one for free (or close to free) and make it work, rather than putting your bike out of action for stuff it doesn't need?
 
Chalo said:
If you're just restless to hack on an e-bike, why not find a broken one for free (or close to free) and make it work, rather than putting your bike out of action for stuff it doesn't need?

Thank you for saving me. This bike, I use it to commute every day to, and from, work. I should keep it in a legal state. I do have other bikes that I can convert. I love to tinker with things, but you are right, I shouldn’t hack on this bike.

Thank you to all who replied.
 
99t4 said:
slaphappygamer said:
The Phaserunner would fit just fine, but I think I'd want a display.
Doesn't the Phaserunner have a connector for a Cycle Analyst?

The Cycle Analyst is not a display. (see my many other posts on the subject for details, from all the other times people have suggested this; too wiped out tonight to type it all up again).
 
Yes of course I know, sorry to cause the extra anguish AW, I have indeed read your well-written descriptions of the CA and what it is and isn't.

My thinking was that the CA can display a great many items a controller display does, and can serve as a "display" (in terms of common display features as speed, odo, battery level, watts, trip time, etc.) And the Phaserunner is wired for it.

Anyway, it's currently a moot point, as Phaserunners are backordered until later this year.
 
99t4 said:
My thinking was that the CA can display a great many items a controller display does, and can serve as a "display" (in terms of common display features as speed, odo, battery level, watts, trip time, etc.) And the Phaserunner is wired for it.

That's true; I just didn't want you (or any readers) to think it does what typical controller displays do (setup and program the controller), and then be disappointed or frustrated because it can't. ;)

To do what those displays do, you'd need to use a smartphone with bluetooth and the grin app, and I'm not sure it's a realtime-kind-of-thing (never had one to try out).

FWIW, the CA actually does way way more than any of the typical controller displays (or even many controllers!)...but only if you need those specific things, and are willing to go thru all the setup necessary to do it.

With a PR, many of the things the CA does are already possible if you set it up for them; albeit it's a different method of setup.
 
Hi all, I ended up cutting a piece of foam packaging to the size of a 35a controller I was looking at and it would be too large. In the future, I'll be replacing the controller with a similar size, a 25a controller (125mmX65mmX36mm) will fit just fine. I may have to move some wiring around and clean it up better to get a more proper fit. I'll be sure to get a new display as well. I see that there are many combo kits available, that way I can be sure everything will work together.
 
So, I ended up getting this, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32972931563.html, display and controller. It fits perfect in the downtube, where the original controller was. I've limited the max amps to 22 (because I think that is the max amps my motor can take, not sure though). I can notice a difference in the reaction of the throttle. I wasn't expecting to go faster, just sooner. This is great for taking off at stops and going up hill (which was my goal). The original controller was limited, by the display, to 18 amps. It's just 4 amps difference, but that is very noticeable to me.

Do you think I could set my max amps to 25 and not damage my motor? 1056 to 1200 watts seems negligible. Other than the stamp (SY2248700CUL3030PS1) on the motor, I really have no other information to identify it. With the bike weight and a backpack, we total about 220lbs.
 
Could be possible to go from 18A to 25 if you’re carefully trying it out. It will cause higher temperature in the motor, just resistance losses in the windings will go up from 18^2 to 25^2 which is close to double (assuming the given controller currents are rms phase current values)

How hot does it get during your normal driving?
 
larsb said:
Could be possible to go from 18A to 25 if you’re carefully trying it out. It will cause higher temperature in the motor, just resistance losses in the windings will go up from 18^2 to 25^2 which is close to double (assuming the given controller currents are rms phase current values)

How hot does it get during your normal driving?

I'm not riding this on throttle only, so yes, I will be using caution.

I'm not sure if I am measuring the temperature properly. I'm using an infrared heat gun, like for the BBQ. The temperature is at about 86F. I'm pretty sure this isn't accurate as I think I'm only measuring the external temp. My motor has only the 3 phase wires and a 6pin hall sensor connection. I know it has a speed sensor and I'm fairly certain that there is no temp sensor (otherwise I'd have a 7pin connection?). I should also mention that the motor has the 9pin connector (HiGo Z910).
 
Back
Top