Connecting an LCD display.

pmjk

100 µW
Joined
May 10, 2022
Messages
7
Hello to All,

I am sure you get this question a lot. I have looked but cannot find my specific controller to work from. I bought a DIY kit from Walmart. It's a front hub 500w version that did not have an LCD display included. My question is how would I connect such a display as I wish to try and change some of the controller settings. Looking at the photo provided can anyone tell me how I could connect an LCD display? I am not great with electronics.










Thank you.
 

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pmjk said:
Hello to All,

I am sure you get this question a lot. I have looked but cannot find my specific controller to work from. I bought a DIY kit from Walmart. It's a front hub 500w version that did not have an LCD display included. My question is how would I connect such a display as I wish to try and change some of the controller settings. Looking at the photo provided can anyone tell me how I could connect an LCD display? I am not great with electronics.

Thank you.
Unfortunately displays and controllers need to be matched/paired, or at least be made by the same manufacturer. Not all controllers support user adjustable parameters or are programmable, and most lower cost ones don't have displays or many adjustments. Yours supports the cruise control function and probably supports a three speed (lo-med-hi) switch ("Three Gear Line"). The "Booster Line" is interesting. Not sure what that is.
 
Thank you E-HP. Perhaps it might be better to buy a new controller already paired with an LCD display. Although this unit is new hate to have wasted money.

The boost line has me wondering as well. I thought it was for the PAS sensor. The kit didn't come with one.
 
You could purchase both a KT display and replacement controller matched to it for relatively little that would give you what you are looking for. You could likely use a lower-amperage controller with that motor combination. The display connector from most controllers has 5 or more wires - yours does not appear to be set up for a display. The other connectors (halls, phase, brakes etc) are pretty universal and common, and a KT controller will be straightforward for connections here. The only thing that may require some work is to determine the correct motor parameters to set in the configuration to function with your particular motor.
 
Thank you ccihon,

I have been looking at KT products. Could you suggest parameters for the controller? I have a 500w front hub motor, twist throttle, 52 v 10ah battery. No pas sensor. Does the controller have to say it's suited for a 500w motor etc?

The reason for all this is I am barely going15 km per hour and uphill, turtles pass me.

Best regards,

Peter
 
Your battery is 52v "10ah" - that is a measure of capacity but unsure what the current draw max it may support is. A 500w draw at 52v suggests you may see current draws in real world use of that motor of maybe 10-15 amps. The controllers are generally rated in amps rather than watts, and most support 36v, 48v, and 52v. I think many pick the "KT-22A" or similar for something like this. You can run this without PAS, and even add that later if desired. Max current is 22amps on these but standard rating is 11 amps:

One example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234530011583

This version uses waterproof connectors, I think you can find same combo slightly cheaper with connectors that are closer to what your current system has - but you will likely only be hooking up the motor halls and phases, battery power, throttle, maybe brake sensors? Most of the time some solder splicing and shrink tubing is in order anyway.
 
Well before I buy a new controller, can anyone tell me why I am going so slow?
As I said before my battery is a 52v 10ah 20 amp battery, 500w front hub motor, and no pas sensor. I have attached a photo of the controller. Is it my battery?
 

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pmjk said:
Well before I buy a new controller, can anyone tell me why I am going so slow?
As I said before my battery is a 52v 10ah 20 amp battery, 500w front hub motor, and no pas sensor. I have attached a photo of the controller. Is it my battery?

Do you have a link to the motor or kit? The voltage and motor winding determine the speed. If you're going faster than 20 mph, then the power (controller) will make a difference. What speed do you get with wheel off the ground, full throttle?
 
Here's a link https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/INTBUYING-26inch-Mountain-Bike-Modified-E-bike-Conversion-Kit-without-Battery-48v-60v-500w/2822Y64X44HA

20mph? I barely get 10 miles per hour.
 
pmjk said:
Here's a link https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/INTBUYING-26inch-Mountain-Bike-Modified-E-bike-Conversion-Kit-without-Battery-48v-60v-500w/2822Y64X44HA

20mph? I barely get 10 miles per hour.

You have some problem with your system. What are you using for a battery?
 
pmjk said:
20mph? I barely get 10 miles per hour.

Does the motor or controller get hot when riding? Something is wrong with the configuration if you're topping out at 10mph. Are you using a 3-speed switch?
 
The motor is not getting hot. Yes, there is a 3-speed switch. The battery I am using, I bought from here a 52v 7ah 20 amp continuous...

https://www.affordableebikes.ca/collections/batteries/products/underseat-battery-clip-on-off?variant=41766781288602
 
pmjk said:
Here's a link https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/INTBUYING-26inch-Mountain-Bike-Modified-E-bike-Conversion-Kit-without-Battery-48v-60v-500w/2822Y64X44HA

20mph? I barely get 10 miles per hour.
Under what riding conditions? Flat smooth roads, or hills, or sand, dirt, rocks, etc? Winds? (and so on...)

Does the battery meter show any cahnge during acceleration vs riding slowly and steadily vs riding faster and steadily vs just sitting there stopped?

Does the battery itself get warm during operation?

Note that some localities have legal limits on the speed of ebikes; some very low. If the kit you bought was made to be sold in such an area (even if yours is not), it may have a built-in limiter preventing operation beyond that speed. The ad for the kit doesn't specify what speed it is able or intended to go. :(


Yes, there is a 3-speed switch.
What change, if any, is there between the 3 positions of that switch?


Were these steps (from the linked purchase website) performed after the system was installed on the bike? If not, the motor may be being driven incorrectly by the controller.
1. Turn off the power supply and the switch lock.
2. Connect the Hall wire, motor phase wire, switch lock wire, throttle handle wire,identification wire, and power wire in order to start debugging.
3.Turn on the switch and the motor starts to rotate. If the wheel rotates in a forward direction, the debugging is successful; if the wheel rotates in a reverse direction, unplug the identification wire and connect it again until it turns in the forward direction and the debugging is successful.
4. After the debugging is successful, separate the two identification wire, turn the knob to confirm the success, turn off the switch, and connect other wires as needed. (When the motor is rotating forward, separate the identification wire without turning off the power supply, the motor will stop rotating, and the motor will be fully controlled by the handle at this time. Turn off the power supply and the commissioning is completed.)



It's a front hub 500w version that did not have an LCD display included. My question is how would I connect such a display as I wish to try and change some of the controller settings. Looking at the photo provided can anyone tell me how I could connect an LCD display?
As noted by others, that controller probably doesnt' support an LCD.


pmjk said:
I have been looking at KT products. Could you suggest parameters for the controller? I have a 500w front hub motor, twist throttle, 52 v 10ah battery. No pas sensor. Does the controller have to say it's suited for a 500w motor etc?

The reason for all this is I am barely going15 km per hour and uphill, turtles pass me.
You'd need to list the specific conditions you ride under, worst case, and what you need the bike to do for you, specifically, for us to suggest parts that can do these things for you. ;) For hills, total system and rider and cargo/etc weight also matters.

Hills take more power than flat roads, the steeper the hill the more power, and even more the more weight there is to move up the hill. Same thing with speed; faster takes more power because of air resistance primarily (which is why fighting winds take more power, too, it's just like riding that much faster--10mph headwind plus trying to go 20mph means taking as much as twice the power just as if you were trying to go 30mph).
 
Thank you Amberwolf,

Quite a long detailed answer, I appreciate it. I understand the basic law of physics that it requires more energy to move weight uphill and that weight itself plays a part.

I am sure I have wired something incorrectly as the speed on a flat, paved surface is remarkably slow and uphill I could get off and walk faster.

You did make me think about the sequence of how I connected things though. The 3-speed switch provides no discernable change in speed. Perhaps when I initially wired it up I didn't follow the instructions close enough as far as the order. I will disconnect everything and start over.

Thank you again for your detailed answer, a lot for me to mull over.

Best regards,

Peter
 
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