Connectors and Plugs!

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Jun 15, 2019
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I'm about to snag a generic weatherpak kit off amazon so that I can begin making proper weather-resistant connectors for all my projects, from Ebikes to yard tools to cars, but I just have a quick couple of questions before I start adding things to my basket:
  • JST connectors. Should I still get a kit for them, or should I just snip the ones I find off for more weatherpak connectors? I could use them on other electronics projects, but there's no concrete plans yet.
  • And what Amazon kits do you recommend for these? I know weatherpaks have been licensed for awhile, but I wanted to make sure I was getting a decent kit.

If you're wondering- I've thought about getting deutsch connectors but their high cost (and lower maximum amps) is what's stopping me, when weatherpaks work almost as well for a fraction of the cost. These are just being used for accessories and things that most places use JST for instead.
 
I have been using Julet connectors. I just buy Julet extension cables, cut them in half and solder them inline using waterproof heatshrink to seal the solder connection. JST connectors are not remotely waterproof, but you could cover them with heatshrink or maybe slather them in dialectric grease.
 
RunForTheHills said:
I have been using Julet connectors. I just buy Julet extension cables, cut them in half and solder them inline using waterproof heatshrink to seal the solder connection. JST connectors are not remotely waterproof, but you could cover them with heatshrink or maybe slather them in dialectric grease.

Thank you, but I'm dead-set on using Weatherpaks.
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
Thank you, but I'm dead-set on using Weatherpaks.

I don't have any experience with Weatherpack connetors, but looking at a picture of them they seem kind of bulky. Especially the ones with more than three or four connectors. I am sure they will work fine though. I think you will probably have to rely on the Amazon reviews to find the best Amazon kit/seller. But don't trust the reviews if there are only a few. If there are less than 100 reviews and they are all five star, I just assume that they are all sock puppets from the seller.

Usually, you only need to worry about high current for the motor and battery connections and I wouldn't use the Weatherpack connectors for those. For the battery connection I think XT60, XT90, or bullet connectors would be the best choices. Anderson are good too, but less waterproof.
 
RunForTheHills said:
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
Thank you, but I'm dead-set on using Weatherpaks.

I don't have any experience with Weatherpack connetors, but looking at a picture of them they seem kind of bulky. Especially the ones with more than three or four connectors. I am sure they will work fine though. I think you will probably have to rely on the Amazon reviews to find the best Amazon kit/seller. But don't trust the reviews if there are only a few. If there are less than 100 reviews and they are all five star, I just assume that they are all sock puppets from the seller.

Usually, you only need to worry about high current for the motor and battery connections and I wouldn't use the Weatherpack connectors for those. For the battery connection I think XT60, XT90, or bullet connectors would be the best choices. Anderson are good too, but less waterproof.
Oh, I'm only talking for accessories like lights and some sensors! All my battery leads are XTs and all my motor connections will likely be MTs or andersons.
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
...so that I can begin making proper weather-resistant connectors for all my projects, from Ebikes to yard tools to cars...
While I acknowledge your lauditory objective to standardize connectors across your projects, for those applications you mention (signal, low current, [relatively] lo volt), for the ebikes at least, you may want to use Julet/HIGO for the following reasons:

1. Compact, streamlined minimally bulky form factor.
2. Reasonable water resistance
3. Ease of use
4. Price
5. Growing standard (?)

The current Julet/HIGO on my ebikes (daily use in a rainforest environment) have been a pleasant surprise. They are not overwrapped or oversleeved with anything, nor treated with dielectric grease or similar, and have never caused a problem even after several hours riding thru torrential downpours (I'm pretty dedicated/determined).

Testing showed that they will fault (short circuit from water ingress) when targeted with a directed high pressure stream from a garden hose nozzle but this treatment will also damage sealed bearings.

Previously used JST and I liked them for the ability to backprobe them but they were not as reliable, even when packed with dielectric grease and tightly wrapped with self-fusing silicone tape.

As mentioned above, just buy extensions in the pinouts you need, cut them in half, and splice them into your circuits using your preferred method. I either crimp/heatshrink sleeve, or solder/heatshrink sleeve.

LATER EDIT: Ok I just reread and noticed this "Thank you, but I'm dead-set on using Weatherpaks." must have missed it before so sorry to waste your time with all this but maybe it will help someone in the future. :)

Anyway, as far as Weatherpacks, make sure they support your duty cycle (aren't they spec'd for 10 engagement and disengagement cycles?) and that you get good quality crimpers and shrink boots as needed.
 
99t4 said:
LATER EDIT: Ok I just reread and noticed this "Thank you, but I'm dead-set on using Weatherpaks." must have missed it before so sorry to waste your time with all this but maybe it will help someone in the future. :)

Anyway, as far as Weatherpacks, make sure they support your duty cycle (aren't they spec'd for 10 engagement and disengagement cycles?) and that you get good quality crimpers and shrink boots as needed.
My hope is, that I can use them both for these, but also for working on my project cars and my lawn tractor. I also looked at deutsch connectors, but even the no-name crimpers are expensive.

I'll look up the cycle counts- if it's that bad I might check myself. Thanks!
 
spinningmagnets said:
Please post pics and tips after you finish experimenting with these.
If that's the case... I'll give it a shot then. Some of the kits are only ~$20 so I'll take a chance on one soon and do some basic destructive tests. I have no IR or heat camera though, but even a simple "can it handle X?" should be enough.
 
You can et a small kit of Molex P25 Mizuo from Digikey. Mizu P25 is tiny, 24g system that works will int he systems we need them to. Digikey has many " sample" packs that hold 10-25 pc kits. Of certain types of connections.

I have alot of systems. I use gold alot. Alot of aircraft (old) style. I try not to solder.

You eventually end up with an assortment. I got boxes of Molex in the shop.


Weatherpack is junk but I will tell you where to by them. Buy them form DIYAUTOTUNE.com and be assured you are not buying fake clones ( but they still suck in comparison to most other connection systems.. Lol) . I do admit I have some here.

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/wiring-components/weather-pack-kits/

Mizu.. and.. Molex XT. I buy Molex sample packs whenever I can. Panduit. I have learned to trust Panduit too.

The maker Deutsch is way overpriced and Cannon, Amp, ot Tyco close barrel crimps is what i use. However, you need a turret crimper if you really want to be good with those ( 750$~).


I got a ton of ramshackle systems in my tackle boxes. Them ones that come on teh Kelly controllers, the ones that come on BMW cars, the ones that come on American cars, ect. Jst jst jst. All the RC ones bah. Cheapest junk goes, Eh? . I have seen people be absolutely obsessed with getting a correct crimp, and written up long dissections about the quality of the crimp system in action. Most of my stuff I build is relatively cheap and need only fulfill the need: I try to stick with the stuff that is already there as opposed to rewiring the entire systems. Its not like I am ever going much over 150mph ever ( car engines) or flying spaceships ( the needed reliability vs cost) .

I trust my connections. Harness building is an art and a skill to be learned. I try to go closed barrel if I can.. but I dont always. I certainly have the wing-crimps too.
 
Forget even going 150MPH, I can't even find a frocking connector that does multiple jobs without requiring an investment of hundreds of dollars! I'm very sorry to rant, but I can't put a single EBkie together because there's ten thousand goddamn choices to make and even just connectors keeps stalling me.

Okay. I need advice. These connectors will be used for mostly signaling and automotive duties- my goal is, that whatever I snag I can also use for my lawn tractor (1971 International Harvester, 12v DC generator system) and whatever future project car I bring home (lots of kinds, my daily is a turbo Mitsu and I've thought about buying a '50 Packard Straight 8) because I don't have the money to burn on buying a wiring set and tool, and finding that it's a poor fit. I can buy deutsch- buy once, cry once- but there's worry with the aftermarket like DogDipstick said, and the literal hundreds of pages I've read about them imply that you really, REALLY need a good crimper. I've already got XT60s for future batteries, a good Anderson Powerpole crimper, and I'll either use MT60s or the andersons for my phase wires.

I stuck myself on weatherpaks for a few reasons- extremely low cost, easily obtained, already known work for signaling, weatherproof- but also because my step father has worked in Transmission design for OEM manufactures (he works the electronic side) and he just advised to get weatherpaks for hobby duties. I also know weatherpaks can pull more amps than deutsch, up to a max of 20, so even serious lights should be possible.

So, please hit me with what experience or opinions you have.
 
The cheapest crimper for those Mizu's are $350, which is right back to Deutsch territory.
larsb said:
Another tip is jwpf connectors for signals, like them but find them a tiny bit too small.
Those JWFPs look interesting- up to 100v, but maxes at 3 Amps. But it looks like common JST crimping tools work for them? If so, then that's a $20 tool and a $20 kit- that could work.
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
So, please hit me with what experience or opinions you have.

Well, if you want my opinion, here it is:

1. It is a lot easier to hide bulky Weatherpack connectors under the floorboard of a car than on the frame of a bicycle.
2. You don't need to buy an expensive crimper to use julet connectors on your bicycles. You can still buy a Weatherpack kit for your future car projects and you are not out any money using julet connectors on the bikes.
3. You don't currently have a car project that needs Weatherpack connectors.
4. Lawn tractors don't commonly use Weatherpack connectors and I would be inclined to use the OEM connectors where possible.

I have a couple of kits from Grin that use the CAv3. There is a mess of connectors that come out of the bottom of the CAv3. Most of them are JST connectors and there is a new 8 pin water proof connector that goes to the controller and looks like a julet/higo connector. I don't really ride much in the rain, but I have been tempted to replace the connectors on the Cycle Analyst just to clean up the bulky mess coming out of it. Weatherpack connectors would just make it worse, but julet connectors would streamline the wiring a lot.

5 pin JST:

pctdetail.899-543.1.jpg


5 pin Weatherpack:

16418.Jpg


5 pin Julet:

DISPLAYEXTENSION2_1024x1024.jpg
 
RunForTheHills said:
2. You don't need to buy an expensive crimper to use julet connectors on your bicycles. You can still buy a Weatherpack kit for your future car projects and you are not out any money using julet connectors on the bikes.
What tool do you use for the Julets?

3. You don't currently have a car project that needs Weatherpack connectors.
s-shut up :oops: this is a joke lol

4. Lawn tractors don't commonly use Weatherpack connectors and I would be inclined to use the OEM connectors where possible.
OEM connectors for the International are ring terminals :lol: it doesn't even have an alternator- it's a 12v generator system using contactors to shuttle power. I have to rewire the whole thing.

I do worry about the size of the Weatherpaks, but with most wiring diagrams and connections for externals (lights, displays ect) they're -3 to-5 pin plugs and I imagined I could deal with their bulky nature. I'm open to other things- like those JWFPs- but that's why I didn't seem to worry *too* much about size; having one common system was more important to me.
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
What tool do you use for the Julets?

You have to buy the connectors as a pigtail or or an extension cable and then cut them in half. Because of the small form factor, you can't crimp the pins as far as I know. Buying the extension cables and cutting them up is the most cost effective way. You could use heatshrink butt connectors and crimp those as @99t4 mentioned, but that is not an expensive crimper. I soldered the splices on my last project, but I might try the butt connectors in the future.

33cc20b4269b3ff7ba7e17a8174bb93bad9a48f3_original.jpeg
 
These are the connections coming out of a Cycle Analyst. The six pin connector has been replaced with an 8 pin higo-like waterproof connector on new versions. The CA is typically mounted on the top of the handlebar stem.

Untitled-3.jpg
 
I see which connector we're talking about know! I actually used weatherpack connectors on my first build, then no more. Too bulky and ugly with no benefit. Julet, jpwpf, mizus, hiroses are all better suited for the job :wink:
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
What tool do you use for the Julets?
You don't, they are overmolded, the pins and sockets are not readily accessible for manipulation, hence the reason for buying them as an extension cable which you cut in half to get a M and F, ready for you to splice into your system.

For your other (non ebike) projects:

What about visiting a junkyard and harvesting interesting connector sets from applications that are similar to your current and planned projects? IIRC, GM (and others) widely used Weatherpack connectors in their vehicles. Simply clip them out leaving plenty of workable pigtail length for splicing. One Cadillac probably has dozens of them! Bring home bags of them for a few bucks! Big assortment of Weatherpacks ready to be spliced into your projects!

Only potential drawback I can see is that it will look ultimately not as clean as if you were incorporating the naked connectors directly into your pristine wiring looms at the pin level instead of pigtail-splicing them in. IOW the pigtail segment wire colors/gauges may not directly match your harness colors, and the pigtail splices do add bulk (and -potential- points of failure).

I suppose this is a meta way of thinking about incorporating connectors into your system. I like to use this method where I can because I don't have to get into the whole "assembling a connector" mindset and its associated costs ($pecialized crimping tool$) and time investments and taxing fine motor skills and patience. Besides, the factory likely does a FAR better job than I could.
 
99t4 said:
What about visiting a junkyard and harvesting interesting connector sets from applications that are similar to your current and planned projects? IIRC, GM (and others) widely used Weatherpack connectors in their vehicles. Simply clip them out leaving plenty of workable pigtail length for splicing. One Cadillac probably has dozens of them! Bring home bags of them for a few bucks! Big assortment of Weatherpacks ready to be spliced into your projects!

Always an alright idea, assuming. I don't see that many bigass caddies in the yards anymore- where will I get my 500ci V8s :(

I suppose this is a meta way of thinking about incorporating connectors into your system. I like to use this method where I can because I don't have to get into the whole "assembling a connector" mindset and its associated costs ($pecialized crimping tool$) and time investments and taxing fine motor skills and patience. Besides, the factory likely does a FAR better job than I could.
And it's also why at the end of even this discussion, the adage "Buy once, cry once" might force me still to offbrand Deutsch style. I've got this question asked in other circles too, so I'll see what else I find aside from the JWPFs.
 
Came upon a problem today with my battery, it charges fine and was supplying current to the battery until it didnt.
Its taking a charge just fine, the XT90 seemed to have failed at 54.00v, but taking it up to 57v at 4a until the Satiator stops, then I will look at the XT90. This XT90 with no A/S and daily unplugs and plug-ins, so 100's upon 100's of connections.

I am now looking into a mechanically fastened at a reasonable price that are water tight.

Whats usually the case with XT90's failing, they fail at the solder joint, from what I see of mine it looks fine, but the barrels of the XT90 are dirty dirty dirty, higher resistance, more heat at that joint. Time for a change indeed. New XT90 or new other connector.

I take a new DMM to the XT90 and it reads 4.00v not 5x.xx volts.

edit
Just did a quick repair and swapped in a new XT90-A/S, its nice not having to hear that spark every time. Then I did a quick, fast, rainy 18 mile test ride to see if I could find my glove, I did not find it because it was windy a.f. today too. A few yrs ago, I had lost the same glove but found it on the ground 3 days later. I will do a second run to find it tomorrow, got nothing else to do.

I should really do the same XT90-A/S with the other battery but only on the final series adapter xt90.

The problem was the XT90 failed at the solder joint, like every other one. With the frequent, daily if not multiple times a day times of plugging it in and unplugging it puts strain on the strands. All in all I have
52v 15ah = 1 xt90
36v 20ah = 5 xt90 (because of the series adapter)
1xt90 for the controller.
Total is 7 XT90 :shock:
A couple weeks ago I put in gold bullet connetors for the phases, un-sensored controller.
I do believe my throttle wires are just only taped on :oops: :lol: :thumb:

Ramble on
Similar problem occured on the battery while out riding but I carry wire strippers and tape. I just babied it and tried not to put to much power through it.

I think the situation here is the cyclic heating happened degrade the connection and strands of wire even more. And all the times I remember, I was going up a slight hill, just like today over the foot and canal and into the hood.
 
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