Grin TorqArm V2 install question

Assembling my kit from Grin on my Bike Friday New World Tourist and am stymied at the TorqArm V2 install. The motor, a Shengyi SX1 came with three washers, two of which are the ones with tabs that go in the dropouts. I have one tabbed washer in the dropout as seen in photo 1. Near as I can tell the second washer shown in photo two goes between the TorqArm and the dropout. What do I do with the one with the tab (#1) and the C shaped one (#3) in photo 2? I do have a tabbed washer on the other side of the motor BTW.

Weirdly there were no instructions included with the TorqArm or on the Grin site. And there is nothing on their Youtube feed either.

Thank You

Many times it is a bit of a 'jerry rig' as standard bicycle frames were never designed to have electric motors mounted in their axle dropouts. One must adapt and go with what works for a particular frame/motor combination.

Personally I always try to center the axle in the slot/hole. Looks to me like it is off center. I would rotate the tabbed washer around 180 degrees. I believe that number 3 washer is a bit smaller in the outside diameter than the rest and likely used to fill in the area of the cursed "lawyers lips" (open end up). Number 2 goes on last under the nut ... assuming you have adequate threads to accommodate it.

Enkidu said:

Weirdly there were no instructions included with the TorqArm or on the Grin site. And there is nothing on their Youtube feed either.

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Rotate your tabbed washer 180 degrees as mentioned. Add washer #2 on the outside of the fork. Put the C washer in the parts bin. Then attach your torque arm per the diagram for TA2:
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html

Washer #2 allows the TA parts to line up with the part that attaches to the fender bolt.

Doesn't Grin have a whole scection on installing TA's?
Anyhow, I toss the tab'ed washer/spacers, they are not strong enough to serve a useful fuction and then I use the C-washers to fill the Law yer's Lips void.
The flat usually ends up going inside the chain stay, between it and the end of the cassette spline/free wheel to keep them from rubbing. Get a handful of those flat washers @ the H.ware.
Hold the #2 piece of TA where you want to mount it on the Chain stay/fork tube and stack flat washers to get the location.
Don't overtighten the axle nuts and ck them after the first couple of rides.
Use med strenght Loc-Tite.

motomech said:

Doesn't Grin have a whole scection on installing TA's?
Anyhow, I toss the tab'ed washer/spacers, they are not strong enough to serve a useful fuction and then I use the C-washers to fill the Law yer's Lips void.
The flat usually ends up going inside the chain stay, between it and the end of the cassette spline/free wheel to keep them from rubbing. Get a handful of those flat washers @ the H.ware.
Hold the #2 piece of TA where you want to mount it on the Chain stay/fork tube and stack flat washers to get the location.
Don't overtighten the axle nuts and ck them after the first couple of rides.
Use med strenght Loc-Tite.

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I could be wrong but I believe the picture posted by the OP is a front fork.

Thanks all for the replies. I wrote to Grin and here is their answer.

Adjust the tabbed washer so that the tab sits at the bottom of the dropout.

The flat washer should sit between the dropout and axle nut.

The C shaped one you only need to use if your bike has lawyer lips, and that would go inside the lip.

You can disregard the tabbed washer on the torque arm side.

We'll be putting together motor manuals soon, but happy to answer any questions by email in the meantime.

Bicycle Fitment, Axle Hardware, and Torque Arms https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits/shengyi-sx-geared-hubs.html

These motors have a natural fit for standard quick release bicycle frames that have 100mm front fork spacing or 135mm rear spacing. The front axle is exactly 100mm long while the rear is 136.5mm so no frame spreading is required, and the smallish diameter and narrow motor construction means that there are few fitment issues with the the rear stays or fork blades. The axle itself is the common M12 x 1.25 with 10mm flats, and it may be necessary to file open the dropout slot to the full 10mm width if it is too narrow.

Both the front and rear motors have internal tabbed washers on the axle shoulder which must be located on the axle inside the dropout for correct axle length and disk / cassette alignment. The tab faces outwards and into the dropout slot to provide additional anti-rotation strength. This solution is adequate on bicycles with strong chromoloy dropouts, but for alloy or thinner steel dropouts we always recommend a torque arm as well. Our standard V2 and V3 torque arms are recommended with the front SX1 motor,

LewTwo said:

motomech said:

Doesn't Grin have a whole scection on installing TA's?
Anyhow, I toss the tab'ed washer/spacers, they are not strong enough to serve a useful fuction and then I use the C-washers to fill the Law yer's Lips void.
The flat usually ends up going inside the chain stay, between it and the end of the cassette spline/free wheel to keep them from rubbing. Get a handful of those flat washers @ the H.ware.
Hold the #2 piece of TA where you want to mount it on the Chain stay/fork tube and stack flat washers to get the location.
Don't overtighten the axle nuts and ck them after the first couple of rides.
Use med strenght Loc-Tite.

Click to expand...

I could be wrong but I believe the picture posted by the OP is a front fork.

Click to expand...

The same applies to both ends.

Both the front and rear motors have internal tabbed washers on the axle shoulder which must be located on the axle inside the dropout for correct axle length and disk / cassette alignment. The tab faces outwards and into the dropout slot to provide additional anti-rotation strength.

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Use these only if you are using the Ebike CA pieces.
I suspect many first time installers may end up some axle rotation, not enough to break the drop-outs, but a little bit. Genaric TA's made to fit both size axles have some slop (gd. reason to use the Grin TA's), the new installer may not have pre-loaded the axle. the hardware that connects the 2-piece TA may not be tight enough. At any rate I think this happens fairly often and is the reason to visualy inspect the mount for several rides with a new install. So what gets messed up when this happens? Caught in time, it may only leave some divots in the drop-out and that's it.
What is a problem are the CAST tab washers/spacers. They are the ones that have no strength and unfortunately the cast majority of kits come with them.

This solution is adequate on bicycles with strong chromoloy dropouts, but for alloy or thinner steel dropouts we always recommend a torque arm as well.

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I.M.O., there is no substitute for a real torque arm on any ebike of any power or frame material. They are cheap and will actually hold the wheel in place if something goes wrong.

Note; Looking at the first post, I seee that the Grin tabbed washers are machined steel. This is the way to do it. although I'm not sure I would want the buying public to make the call on when they can be used w/out a TA.The cast ones are truely junk and they are more of what I'm referring to.

Fyi, if the wires come out of the axle, it's opening is supposed to face downwards so rain water doesn't run into the axle.
So maybe you have to rotate your whole axle 180deg instead of flipping the washer.

Enkidu said:

You can disregard the tabbed washer on the torque arm side.

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You need a washer anyway, assuming you have an aluminum fork, so why not just use the tabbed one, in the same orientation?

The article uses a normal flat washer:
https://www.ebikeschool.com/install-hub-motor-washers/

Grin just says to use the tabbed one: