alex151 said:
I’ve got this motor, looks like it shifts gears too..
that motor looks like a standard "500w" (sometimes "1000w") direct drive hub, it doesnt' have any gearing inside; there's no gears to shift.
even geared hubs don't shift gears inside; it's fixed gearing.
on the outside, there are no gears to shift either, for your pedal drivetrain chain; it's a single speed sprocket.
looking at the wheel it looks like someone misassembled it and put the gear outside the guard..
they probably didn't have a lockring so they put that outer sprocket on to lock the guard in place.
Anyways, I’m trying to Identify it and find whatever I can on it and hopefully fix it/ get it wired up right.
I'm using KT-LCD3 controller that it came with, but open to alternatives if there is any upside..
install it securely to the bike, with two tight-fitting (on the axle, so it doesnt' rock back and forth and break things) torque arms securely fastened to your frame, and ensure all mounting hardware is securely fastened. don't depend on those little tabbed washers it has to do this for you, use real torque arms like these:
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html
don't skip that step; you can break your bike if you do. if not the bike, the motor and controller, when the axle spins in the dropouts from the torque and rips apart the wiring and shorts things together.
you'll need spacer washer(s) between the axle flats inside the lockring / guard and the dropouts; without these the lockring/guard/sprocket will be jammed into the bike frame, which you don't want to happen. (damage to frame, wheel unable to spin, etc).
tehn wire up the three thick phase wires from the motor to the three phase wires on controller, then the five hall signal wires from the motor to the matching hall signal wires on the controller. then use whatever "auto identify" or "self-learn" procedure your controller has to make sure the controller properly sends the phase signals in the right timing from the halls.
if the cnotroller has no such procedure, then if the motor does not run smoothly at low current when offground slowly ramping up throttle from zero to full, then you'll need to manually switch phase wire pairs around until it runs the right direction, then switch the non-red/non-black hall wires around utnil it keeps running the right direction and runs smoothly with low current when offground.
if current is high or it is "grindy" or doesn't spin right, it's not the right phase/hall wiring combination.
