Generic Controller Connectors (wiring)

rick_p

100 W
Joined
Feb 16, 2021
Messages
260
Location
Los Angeles
The goal is to figure out what the controller supports that I'm not using yet (there are connectors that I don't know what they are for).

A few preliminary notes:

The bike is operational but it's throttle only. I'm not unhappy with it but I'd love to add a PAS sensor if it supports it, and if it does, I'd like to add brake sensors to cut the power when braking.

This is the same bike I posted about in the Build section where I covered how I built the custom bracket to convert the bike to disk brakes. (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=116725)

I found a couple of previous posts on this topic (controller wiring). Both are useful so I'll add links to them here, but neither was useful at helping me finish wiring up my controller.

Whats the basic layout for an E bike wiring harness (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27509)
36V 22A Controller wiring questions (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80435)

I tried searching the internet for the only number found on the controller (ZHZ48V1000W) and found nothing.
The controller came in a kit that included a wheel, the controller, and a throttle with battery indicator lights, but I don't know who the seller was because I got the kit second hand.
The wheel has a number on it too. (HBS-48V1000W1708 4414)

Wiring up the basics was easy because the wires are all color coded and/or the connectors matched up uniquely. I'll post everything in case it helps figure out what my extra connectors are for, and also to help others who are struggling with the basics.

Here are the three mystery connectors with voltages:
mystery-connectors-voltages-2.jpg

Here are the throttle/power button/battery indicator connectors:
throttle-power-batt.jpg

Here are the motor connectors:
motor-connectors.jpg

Here is the power connector:
power-connector.jpg

Here is the generic controller:
controller.jpg

Anyone know what the mystery connectors are for?
 
rick_p said:
Anyone know what the mystery connectors are for?

A three wire connector with red, black and green wires if often used for PAS. Under normal operation, connected to a PAS sensor, you'd have 5V on the red wire and 0V on the green. When not connected, I believe there's a pull up resistor that brings the green signal wire up to 5V, or close to it.

Red and black seem to just pass through battery voltage, may used for lights, etc. not sure.

The blue and black could be for a brake cutoff, or things like self-learning or a speed limiter when connected, not sure.
 
E-HP said:
A three wire connector with red, black and green wires if often used for PAS. Under normal operation, connected to a PAS sensor, you'd have 5V on the red wire and 0V on the green. When not connected, I believe there's a pull up resistor that brings the green signal wire up to 5V, or close to it.

Red and black seem to just pass through battery voltage, may used for lights, etc. not sure.

The blue and black could be for a brake cutoff, or things like self-learning or a speed limiter when connected, not sure.

E-HP, thanks a bunch for the swift reply on this, and this is great news because it sounds like it supports PAS, and if so, it stands to reason that the blue and black would be a brake cutoff, and if so, I would expect it to have some voltage on it, so I just went and checked it again and sure enough, 4.7 volts, I guess I just didn't get a good connection with the voltmeter the first time. I'll update the image.
 
rick_p said:
E-HP said:
A three wire connector with red, black and green wires if often used for PAS. Under normal operation, connected to a PAS sensor, you'd have 5V on the red wire and 0V on the green. When not connected, I believe there's a pull up resistor that brings the green signal wire up to 5V, or close to it.

Red and black seem to just pass through battery voltage, may used for lights, etc. not sure.

The blue and black could be for a brake cutoff, or things like self-learning or a speed limiter when connected, not sure.

E-HP, thanks a bunch for the swift reply on this, and this is great news because it sounds like it supports PAS, and if so, it stands to reason that the blue and black would be a brake cutoff, and if so, I would expect it to have some voltage on it, so I just went and checked it again and sure enough, 4.7 volts, I guess I just didn't get a good connection with the voltmeter the first time. I'll update the image.

Likely a good guess, but proceed with caution. Also manage your expectations since you can't know what to expect with PAS when there's no way to control the level of assist.

To not re-invent the wheel, here's an excellent explanation of how the brake cutoff works:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104189#p1521396
 
E-HP said:
Likely a good guess, but proceed with caution. Also manage your expectations since you can't know what to expect with PAS when there's no way to control the level of assist.

Oh right, there aren't enough connectors, so the controller doesn't support things like an LCD, or a handlebar switch to change the PAS level. :roll: Sheez, what was I thinking!! I feel pretty dumb for wasting everyone's time on this because quite honestly, I doubt I will pursue PAS now, and without that, I don't need brake cutoff switches either.
 
I take pictures of the controllers wiring, then I take it to the desktop pc program to label the wires, then print it out and save it, or just post it up online for future reference, I do it all the time.
 
calab said:
I take pictures of the controllers wiring, then I take it to the desktop pc program to label the wires, then print it out and save it, or just post it up online for future reference, I do it all the time.

Great tips!! And I hope this thread helps others who purchase the same controller, but as I mentioned in my last post, I may not pursue verifying what the three mystery connectors are, and the rest are painfully obvious (in my case) because the components came in a kit, and each connector is unique.
 
You plan to start touching random wires together to see what they do?
I wouldnt, all you need is throttle, phases and battery. No sense wires when you have a Sensorless controller. More wires is all sense wires brings to the table, more potential for things to not work properly. Then you can fluff things up with pedal assist, figure out the cruise control wires, figure out the e-brake low (connected to gnd) and high (connected to battery+) wires. Not sure how one would install a Cycle Analyst on a generic, but why have more stuff on the handlebar? More eye candy for the passerby's. A big neon arrow saying something is different about this bicycle.

rick_p said:
Great tips!! And I hope this thread helps others who purchase the same controller, but as I mentioned in my last post, I may not pursue verifying what the three mystery connectors are, and the rest are painfully obvious (in my case) because the components came in a kit, and each connector is unique.
 
calab said:
You plan to start touching random wires together to see what they do? I wouldnt, all you need is throttle, phases and battery.

I'm sorry if I was not clear, but no, that's not what I meant, not what plan to do, and definitely not what I would advise others to do. Let me reiterate a couple of things I said further back in the thread, which should clear things up. The bike is operational but it's throttle only. Wiring up the basics was easy because the wires are all color coded and/or the connectors matched up uniquely.

Explaining that last sentence a further, I got the kit second hand, but the guy I bought if from told me it didn't come with instructions, but the throttle, power, battery indicator, and motor connectors all came pre-connected, which only leaves the battery wires. So, there was no guesswork.

As for the mystery wires, that was the reason for this post, I was hoping to positively identify what they were before attempting anything. I like PAS and would have considered getting that working, but then I was reminded why in this case it might not work out as expected, so I cancelled that idea as well. Buying a new controller is an option, but like I said in the very first sentence, I'm not unhappy with the way it is.
 
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