24 Volt Voltage regulator?

Can anybody point me to a source for a 24 Volt Voltage regulator, or a simple way to build one? I would like to run my 500Watt, 24V cyclone motor off of 36V Bosch battery packs. It needs to handle 40 Amps peak. I'm an electrical engineer by trade, but I've been digital design for the last 10 years, so I only know 1s and 0s now.

I don't want to take apart the Bosch batteries as I would like to use the stock charger.

Thanks in advance!

StinkyGoalieGuy said:

Can anybody point me to a source for a 24 Volt Voltage regulator, or a simple way to build one? I would like to run my 500Watt, 24V cyclone motor off of 36V Bosch battery packs. It needs to handle 40 Amps peak. I'm an electrical engineer by trade, but I've been digital design for the last 10 years, so I only know 1s and 0s now.

I don't want to take apart the Bosch batteries as I would like to use the stock charger.

Thanks in advance!

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Well I'm a mechanical engineer so you would know better. So I am just wondering if a set of regulator wouldn't work the same way as a set of 12v batteries. Could you wire 2 - 12v regulators is series like we do with the batteries? You should be able to find 12v regs easily.

just run your cyclone at 36V. no need for a 24V power supply.

If you have 2 isolated regulators they might work like that, but I don't recommend it. You're looking at $200 or more for those, better off buying a new motor for that price, or just hedging your bets and plugging into your current one at 36V, should run. Might want to keep an eye on its temperature for a wile though, make sure the paint doesn't start peeling etc.

doesn't the cyclone have a thermostaic switch in the windings? seems like that will protect against the overtemp. there have got to be dozens of threads on it here. i never had one so don't know.

StinkyGoalieGuy said:

Can anybody point me to a source for a 24 Volt Voltage regulator..? ... I'm an electrical engineer by trade.....

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Well, you're an EE, so you should have some Idea how bad your efficancy is going to Suck taking the power down from 36V to 24.

Just run the motor at 36 volts. re-gear if needed. It might blow up, but not likely. if it does, as pointed out, it would be far cheaper to upgrade the motor than to buy a regulater (and much higher capacity battery).

i don't know about the newer internal controllers. on my original Cyclone motors the capacitors on the controller are only rated for 30V. now i know that this is not an absolute rating. the caps may survive being over volted to 33V (dewalt pack voltage) for quite a while. but depending on the manufacturing tolerances this could be a risk. the dewalts would not be as extreme as lets say hooking up a 36V SLA pack which fully charged comes up to over 40V. the DeWalts are only 33V and will be kinder.

besides if it fails. you could look into buying some spare parts from cyclone-tw and convert it to an external controller verision.

rick

rick, can he open it up and replace the caps and the input resistor? even if he is just a programmer he should be able to replace them, heh?

maybe put a 10A fuse inline when you try it on 36V. maybe 3A.

If worst comes to worst, you could just run the phase wires out of the motor, and use an external controller to power it. I really think that may be your best bet if it ends up not working at that voltage.

dnmun said:

rick, can he open it up and replace the caps and the input resistor? even if he is just a programmer he should be able to replace them, heh?

maybe put a 10A fuse inline when you try it on 36V. maybe 3A.

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the caps are all surface mount. yes even the big electrolytics are surface mount. so it could be done but it just too much hassle.

you could do what i did and strip off all of the parts except for the hall sensors. then i lead out the phase wires and added a hall connector for a regular crystalyte analog controller. sort of a DIY external controller adaptation.

for $30USD or $40USD Cyclone-TW will sell you the internal hall effect sensor board. not 100% sure but it should fit in place of the internal controller and provide all of the signals you need to connect to an external controller.

the remaining issues is the Cyclone throttle. it uses a 7pin plastic connector (JST "SM" series) and has that 24V "fuel gauge." your choice either adapt the wiring to work or just get another throttle.

rick

i would get rid of the fuel gauge. i heard that is how rain can get high voltage to the 5V rail of the controller and blow it up.

actually any controller would work externally if you carried out the hall signals. the solution would be something to add to the 'known to work motor/controller wiring schematics' in the archives.

then you could use a digital controller and program it. heheh

try 36V then until it fries and then tap into the hall lines and bring them out to a new controller.