EVG eBike - Heinzman 36v 500w barely runs

KevXR

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Joined
Jul 10, 2012
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I took my EVG bike out for a test run and the motor runs, but there is no power to the rear hub. Gear issue?
The bike is used and the rear hub has always made a slight click. (Not the freewheel.) The bike ran strong for me, but my step-son said it was really slow the last time he rode it. I noticed the hub did not like being backed up. I wonder if something broke.

1) If this is a gear issue, is repair easy?

2) Adding a thermometer. Is there an easy way to added a temperature sensor or thermometer to the motor? Links to the parts appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Kevin
 
My understanding is that the Heinzman hub motor is a direct drive brushless motor. The motor is probably fine. I would check the voltage of the batteries. If it's the original lead acid battery, then that's more often than not, the culprit. Time to upgrade to newer and longer lasting, and lighter battery.
 
The sun gear can loosen on the motor shaft or the one way clutch can come loose either way the motor runs and the bike will not move. The sun gear and clutch are press fit and occasionally come loose and slip.

Some pics here

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=41092&start=75


Good luck
 
here is a thread where keith put the housing back together with the gear slipping on the shaft and i used bearing retainer and JBWeld to glue it on to make it work again, on page three of this thread:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4190&hilit=heinzmann
 
It looks like the problem with my Heinzman hub is the "bearing / one way clutch" is spinning on the race it was pressed onto.

If I am correct in my understanding, I need to make the assembly so the inner spacer (blue arrow) does not spin on the sleeve (black arrow). This may require cleaning out the grease between the two.

Then make sure the bearings under the dust seal (green arrow) are lubed. Of course, the dust seal seems to be non-removable. Spraying with WD-40 has oozed out some grease and it is rotating better now. Once the bearing is secured, I will try to pack grease back under the seal.

Hubclutchbearing_zpsd739a279.png
 
Yes it should be a tight fit between the black and blue arrows.

A geared motor will always have noticeable drag when rolling backwards as the oneway clutch will engage and spin the motor.
 
Icewrench said:
Yes it should be a tight fit between the black and blue arrows.

A geared motor will always have noticeable drag when rolling backwards as the oneway clutch will engage and spin the motor.

That is my problem. The one way clutch spins on the racing. (Between the black and blue arrows)
Need to either "drill and stake it" or glue it.

Looks like Loctite 640 bearing retainer is what I need. Now, if I can find some. Amazon is the only one for under $10 plus shipping.
 
dnmun said:
did you try the bearing retainer like i recommended on the other thread? can you pull it apart to clean it?
The other tread drifted between fixing two different types of hubs, or so it seemed.

The bearing spins on the race, but will not pull off. I guess I could get an automotive puller or bearing puller.

I saw one other thread where the owner destroyed the gear. Bad move. I am trying to avoid that.

Not sure if this would work. Or if the area is clean enough.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctite/LT37424.html?feed=npn&gclid=CPWeq63bjLkCFWxyQgodXjkAMw
 
yep, that is bearing retainer. i got a generic at the bearing shop. it does wick deep into what seems like an interference fit on the faces. you gotta keep it out of the bearings. i think i overdid it with the JBWeld on mine.
 
Thanks for helping.

My plan of attack.
1. Duct tape the bearing dust cover and caged roller bearings.
2. Spray cleaner on the race / one way clutch.
3. Let dry.
4. Put in Loctite 640. Tilt so any leakage goes away from roller bearings.
5. Assemble and test the next day.
 
if i were you and there is no grease on the interface then i think you can just dribble it on a little at a time around the edges and just let the solvent in the bearing retainer sweep the oil off the faces.if you use solvent it may spread any oil in there out all over the entire surface so just use the bearing retainer by itself imo.
 
dnmun said:
if i were you and there is no grease on the interface then i think you can just dribble it on a little at a time around the edges and just let the solvent in the bearing retainer sweep the oil off the faces.if you use solvent it may spread any oil in there out all over the entire surface so just use the bearing retainer by itself imo.
Good point and too late.
 
Right or wrong, this is what I did.
1. Duct tape the bearing dust cover and caged roller bearings. Added grease to needle bearings. Cut gap between race and one-way clutch inner race.
2. Spray brake cleaner on the race / one way clutch gap (between blue and black arrows).
3. Turned so it would drain out. Used "canned air" to blow out any moisture.
4. Couldn't find Loctite 640. Website said Permatex bought Loctite and Permatex 64000 for Cylinders is the same. $9 at Napa Auto.
Placed face up so Permatex would flow down. Filled with blue-green Permatex. Made sure the clutch turned freely in the free-wheel direction only.
6. Next day. One way clutch now works. Does not slip on mount. Put Bel-Ray motorcycle grease over bearing seal and tried to work in. Greased both gears.
5. Assembled after 20 hours. Works great unloaded. Waiting for a full 24 hours before testing under load.

If the Permatex fails, I will drill holes and put in stainless stakes.

FYI: Once again, I found the R/C users are well versed at fixing one-way clutch issues. I guess this happens with the helicopter rotor blade freewheel. So if you are looking for parts or fixes, once again, use the R/C people.

IMG043_zps25ec0035.jpg
 
dnmun said:
don't drill if it gets to that point. just 'stake' it with a punch. drill filings will get into the bearings no matter what you do. way cool you fixed it though.

The FIX lasted about 2 seconds. Either the wrong "bearing adhesive" or too much contamination. I heard a "pop" and the motor spun.

I'm going to stake it next. Good point on drilling shavings. Once again, duct tape over everything. I might buy a small drill press tomorrow. Harbor Freight. Then I need some stainless pegs.
 
it doesn't have to be stainless and it doesn't have to be steel. it can be copper wire and you can drill the hole just big enuff to jam the wire in and then use a punch to drive the wire deeper. i think we tried to talk someone into tack welding it but she had it drilled and roll pins inserted. but tiny drills will break off too.
 
dnmun said:
it doesn't have to be stainless and it doesn't have to be steel. it can be copper wire and you can drill the hole just big enuff to jam the wire in and then use a punch to drive the wire deeper. i think we tried to talk someone into tack welding it but she had it drilled and roll pins inserted. but tiny drills will break off too.
Yes, tiny drill bits snap off like pretzels. I am going to buy a drill press to slowly drill into the gap, which brings a greater chance of snapping the drill bit. The downside of using a punch is metal has to go somewhere. It can push into the one way clutch. Stainless is only for the hardness, steel works just as well. Copper will probably be too soft. I may buy a roller bearing and pull out the rollers. I'm winging it.
 
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