At 48V what controller, etc for 96?

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Boyntonstu

10 kW
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
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549
Location
Boynton Beach, Florida
My Day 6 bike now has almost 4,000 miles at 48V LiPos without a single balance charge,

The four Hobby King 6s 5,200 have been amazing! A parallel set of 48V for 10,400mAhr.

From time to time, I would like to go 35-40mph for a short distance.

I am happy at 20 mph for 20 miles using PA with the cells charged to 4.0 and discharged to 3.8.

By changing 2 connections I can series the set for 96V at 5,200 mAhr.

What speed could I expect at 96V and what new components (controller, throttle, etc) do you recommend?
 
You would only need a controller with 100V caps and fets. That should be any 72V controller. You can use the throttle you have now, just don't hook up the led battery lights if your throttle has them. Unless you're over 275 lbs, you can expect 40+ mph using a motor rated for 470 rpm at 48V. What motor kit are you talking about?
 
I disagree just a bit. a 72v controller will typically be happiest if the actual fully charged voltage is not above 96v. As it was explained to me, a small resistor on the 5v throttle power supply takes a beating above 96v.

I ignored that and ran more anyway, and later on that controller did die a bit early. I did not confirm what failed, but I do suspect it was that 5v leg. as it failed, the throttle signal seemed to be getting weaker and weaker.

I blew that thing after running 26s on it, so I can't say 28s is okey dokey. ( 2x 14s) That's 117 volts. Hard on the caps at that point too.

If you are running true "48v" 13s, then you get a bit closer to ok, but still over 100v full charged.

If you are running 12s now, then 24s is pushing it, but not too bad, since voltage will drop very soon after you start. 24x 4.2v = 100.8v

You can of course, get a 100v rated controller, which likely will have a low voltage limit around 90v.
 
I've been running my 72V controller for over 5 years on 24s lipo (100.8V charged) and about 20K miles at that voltage. The hall sensor in the throttle draws a very small current. That was not the reason your controller failed. More than likely it was from running 26s (109.2V fully charged) on 100V caps and fets.
 
I charge with a Constant Voltage 48 V charger and the current battery has never been higher than that.

I will use a pair of 48 V chargers to get the series set to 96 Volts.

Will a 72 V controller work at 48 V?

The $180 1,000 Watt Ebay motor is what I am using.

Are there any disadvantages running 20mph on a 96 V battery?
 
I run a 6fet lyen mini monster controller on both 12s and 24s lipo with upgraded caps for 100v+, but I really like it at 24s and a 3 way speed switch so I can turn on the speed when needed and dial it down when I don't.
 
wineboyrider said:
I run a 6fet lyen mini monster controller on both 12s and 24s lipo with upgraded caps for 100v+, but I really like it at 24s and a 3 way speed switch so I can turn on the speed when needed and dial it down when I don't.
Click to expand...

Please diagram the 3 way speed switch.

6fet lyen mini monster controller? Buy it where?
 
Boyntonstu said:
I charge with a Constant Voltage 48 V charger and the current battery has never been higher than that.
I will use a pair of 48 V chargers to get the series set to 96 Volts.
Will a 72 V controller work at 48 V?
The $180 1,000 Watt Ebay motor is what I am using.
Are there any disadvantages running 20mph on a 96 V battery?
Click to expand...
Default LVC for many 72V controllers is ~62V, so if you want to run 48V on them you have to lower the LVC. Some controllers, like my 96V controller will work with lower voltages. I can run it on 16s - 30s lipo. They also make controllers that have a switch to change LVC so it can work with different voltages. I put a variable resistor in my 72V controller so I can set LVC to anything. The only disadvantage to running at a higher voltage is it's a little less efficient, and the potential to burn the motor up arises if you feed it to much power for too long. Not enough to worry about imo. There are several advantages. The main one is smaller wires are needed to carry the same wattage. VA=W. IOw's it takes less amps to get the same wattage. 48V x 40A = 720W, 96V x 20A = 720W. Here's 1 example of a controller with variable LVC,
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-Quality-GREENTIME-15-Mosfets-48-84V-1500W-Dual-mode-Sensor-Sensorless-Brushless-DC-Motor-Controller/313864_32218294528.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.rryQGy
 
Not variable, but it will be fine for 48 V.

Low Voltage Cutoff: 41.5V +-0.5V
Rated Power: 1000-1500W
Mosfets: 15pcs Genuine irfb4410 mosfets, this controller can work with 48-84V batteries.


Description:
MOSFET MOSFT 100V 96A 10mOhm 120nC
 
nutspecial said:
The switch is just a 3 position on/off/on. It's dealing with 5v and milliamps for the controller.
Speed 2 is open (off), and speed 1 & 3 are closing their respective sets of two of the three wires total.
Click to expand...

1 & 3 are closing their respective sets of two of the three wires total

What does that accomplish?
 
It changes the preset speed limits. The controller 'controls' the speed limit based on whether it sees 'open' (spd 2), or for spd 1 or 3 it sees a closed circuit on the respective wires.

You can just find the 3spd controller wire (3wires, similar to throttle), find the hot one, and short it to one of the others for 2 (usually lower) speeds.
I could be wrong- most controllers might use the 'open' for 100% speed by default. Never actually testing mine, but I do swear by it for something like 15 25 and 40mph speed limits.
 
The lower ratios of full speed give better throttle resolution and actual hard limits if wanted. Whether 100% equals 120%, or 398285%, or pi or whatever :mrgreen:

Mine keeps me from 'transporting' thru trees and whatnot when I'm a little too jumpy on throttle with 6/7kw mid geared for 40mph. Beam me up, down, and around- just not through anydamnthing
 
nutspecial said:
The lower ratios of full speed give better throttle resolution and actual hard limits if wanted. Whether 100% equals 120%, or 398285%, or pi or whatever :mrgreen:

Mine keeps me from 'transporting' thru trees and whatnot when I'm a little too jumpy on throttle with 6/7kw mid geared for 40mph. Beam me up, down, and around- just not through anydamnthing
Click to expand...

Thanks, better throttle resolution and actual hard limits explains it very well.
 
Beam me up. Yea at 7,200 watts it feels like it's levitating 80v 90amps . I guess that's what you get the term it leaves. Be careful that motor will make heat.
 
The first one is the one the second one has a battery meter meant for SLA crap. Or too much junk. The first one is the one. Any basic throttle well work there's no such thing as a 99 volt throttle.
Edit: sorry cleaned it up.
 
999zip999 said:
The first one is the one the second one has a battery meter meant for SLA crap. Or too much junk. The first one is the one. Any basic throttle won't work there's no such thing as a 99 volt throttle.
Click to expand...

The 99 refers to the maximum Voltage that it can measure. A nice battery monitoring feature to have and much better than the Green,Yellow,Red LED's that I am currently using.

Poorly written but they make their point: "V number of units of measurement, the turn to regardless of lithium batteries, lead-acid batteries, water batteries, dry batteries, for various types of electric vehicles, can automatically identify the voltage."
 
Well volts can help an amp/ hour meter is better. To see how much you have taken out of the battery.
Sorry about that sentence almost any throttle will work .
 
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