How do i fix this????

Icewrench said:
Maybe another frame.
Is that bike aluminum or steel?
Were the axle nuts installed when it came loose?


damn i hope not
Steel
they were on but the throttle was fine then all of the sudden it slipped it seemed like
 
Icewrench said:
At least with a steel bike it is possible to add more material to the drop out and weld it up.

i would prefer to take the derailer off and chain it back up since i wont shift gears but idk what to do i want this up and running soon but its causing me a lot !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of heartache
 
Yes it can be a gruesome process working out the bugs.

But then comes the grin and the electron fix that we all love so much.
 
Icewrench said:
Yes it can be a gruesome process working out the bugs.

But then comes the grin and the electron fix that we all love so much.


so far i cant find grin because ive had this projecting going on for almost 2 weeks now and i still have not ridden it yet
i had just finished the wiring today and was gonna take it out tomorrow until this happened


if i cant fix this idk what il do expect scream........
 
So back to how to fix this mess.
That looks like the axle easily opened that drop out.
Maybe you or a shop with a welder could hammer that dropout back to shape and then weld a 1/4 inch id pipe across the dropout and then cut the pipe to match the slot. Use a nut and bolt in the pipe to clamp it tight.

IMAG0107b.jpg

The best drop outs are thick. The thicker the better. Consider adding more thickness to your drop outs.
 
Icewrench said:
So back to how to fix this mess.
That looks like the axle easily opened that drop out.
Maybe you or a shop with a welder could hammer that dropout back to shape and then weld a 1/4 inch id pipe across the dropout and then cut the pipe to match the slot. Use a nut and bolt in the pipe to clamp it tight.



The best drop outs are thick. The thicker the better. Consider adding more thickness to your drop outs.


is it possible to just remove the derailler or something and go from there or is it a lost cause now?
because i dont know how to add more thickness and all that other stuff

i bought a ebike torque arm but thats all i know of right now.
 
Why the heck is the derailleur on the inside of the dropout? It doesn't go there. Take derailleur guard off and get it out of way. Put it back on later. Remove derailleur to out side dropout. Put wheel back in dropouts all the way in. Take big hammer and beat the dropouts back down to where there's 10mm clearance. That should make the axle flats flush in the dropouts. Put derailleur on the way it should go. Install torque washers and then axle nuts. Tighten axle nuts as tight as you can get them with a 12" wrench or 50 foot pounds. Lastly put derailleur guard back on. Done. This should take some that knows what they are doing no more than ~30 minutes even if they are as old and slow as me.
One note about the derailleur. If that's the type that fits in the back of the dropouts with a little half moon adapter, then just remove that bolt and adapter and just hang it on the axle flat. That will allow the axle to go all the way back in the dropout.
I don't know how you managed to spread the dropouts like that. You did something seriously wrong. I run at least 4 times the power that kit will put out and have never spread my dropouts in 25K miles. And I don't use torque arms/plates at all. Just the torque washers and tight axle nuts. And I also use regen braking.
If you don't understand any of this, then you should probably find someone that does to do it for you.
 
Looks like hes unbolted the derailleur hanger, or it ripped off. But the derailleur itself was not the problem, or the dropout.

The nut was loose, looks a whole lot to me like it was overlapping that derailleur nut. He installed it wrong.

and I'd bet ten bucks no torque arm, since the cheap ass kit generally does not provide one.

Wrong frame to go single speed, no way to adjust the tension, so if he does go SS, he will still need a tensioner of some kind. clearly beyond his bike mechanic experience.
 
FInally, a decent picture, but too bad it came to this. My question is ...what does the other side of the motor look like? I hope the wires aren't all twisted up, or you really have a show stopper.

Looks like both the drop out and the derailleur bracket are bent. Well, if the frame is steel it's easily unbent. Same for the bracket.

If the motor wires are good, when you put it back together, you need to do something about the little nut on the derailleur bracket. It probably interfered with the axle nut and washers. Wes Newell says to get rid of it. I dunno. If you keep it, maybe you have to file down the edge of the washer if it doesn't sit flush. I wonder if it's worth filing down the raised part of the drop out to get a clean flat surface for better grip from the washers. I can't tell from the picture.

Also, get rid of that metal c-shaped derailleur guard. You should have torque arms on both sides, and you can likely use one of the screw holes for the derailleur guard to secure the torque arm on the chain side. That's better than a hose clamp.

Sure, it can be fixed. Seems easy to me. Seen worse.
 
docw009 said:
FInally, a decent picture, but too bad it came to this. My question is ...what does the other side of the motor look like? I hope the wires aren't all twisted up, or you really have a show stopper.

Looks like both the drop out and the derailleur bracket are bent. Well, if the frame is steel it's easily unbent. Same for the bracket.

If the motor wires are good, when you put it back together, you need to do something about the little nut on the derailleur bracket. It probably interfered with the axle nut and washers. Wes Newell says to get rid of it. I dunno. If you keep it, maybe you have to file down the edge of the washer if it doesn't sit flush. I wonder if it's worth filing down the raised part of the drop out to get a clean flat surface for better grip from the washers. I can't tell from the picture.

Also, get rid of that metal c-shaped derailleur guard. You should have torque arms on both sides, and you can likely use one of the screw holes for the derailleur guard to secure the torque arm on the chain side. That's better than a hose clamp.

Sure, it can be fixed. Seems easy to me. Seen worse.


What you said confused me big time
 
His bike has semi-horizontal dropouts, so he could do a single speed by taking some links out of the chain, but I'm not sure he could do it. But there's no need to. If you blow up this photo a lot, you can make out all the details.
nighthawk.jpeg
I'm about 99% sure his derailleur mount is just like the ones that came on several of the bikes I've used. The mount part looks similar to this.
83128.jpg
And it will slide right over the 10mm hub motor axle flats perfectly and the axle nut will hold it in place. Here's a closeup of one mounted that way.
rnut.JPG
 
looks like the derailleur mount is screwed up to. Try and fix it or get a new mount or derailleur.
In the meantime, I sent you some google links to how to videos. Watch a lot of them.
 
You spun your axle and rolled the rear wheel out of the frame. Next time, use a torque arm. Two, if possible.

Huffy bikes are made out of cheese and must be treated accordingly. My guess is that the steel in the dropout plates is no stronger than aluminum.
 
That'd funny. I wonder why mine hasn't spun out yet. I know I don't put more than 6000W into the 3000W motor running 24s lipo, but since I've never used torque arms it should have spun out by now. Or could it be that you are just flat wrong, as usual. I'm sure he found your comments very helpful. :)
 
Confused? OK. If it were my bike, this piece comes off.
jagger3.jpg

That allows you to mount an ebay torque arm like this.
gooder.jpg

Hose clamps can work like below, but this guy had two holes he could have used. Bolting to frame is better, in my opinion,
badder.jpg

Good luck.
 
I think you need to visit a page on how regular bikes work before trying to figure out this ebike build on your own. This current issue is not purely an ebike problem, more of a regular bike issue. And if you cannot figure out where the derailleur goes, you should spend some time on www.sheldonbrown.com
 
I have to say, now I see what happened, and where his semi horizontal dropout is.

I was having some trouble seeing it for what it was,, an upside down bike. the wheel was touching the ground, so I saw right side up. I thought the hanger was some kind of vertical dropout.

Man, he really screwed up installing it, if it could do that. I still see what looks like his washer or nut overlapped the hanger bolt. That was the prime problem. With the nut or washer bearing crooked, it quickly deformed and then the nut was loose as hell when it spun.

I have also run many miles without torque arms, on steel frame bikes. Like thousands. My routine goes like this,, tighten the nuts, wait 10 min, then try to tighten some more.

Nevertheless,,, TORQUE ARM ON THE OTHER SIDE.
 
OK since I can't quite everyone e will try to find there responses please

Yes I'm grateful for advice

I bought torque arms I'm unsure if they will work or not I'm unsure if front will work or if I bought rear but I'm fearing it was front.......

No I didn't install derailer the shop did

I'm re-installing derailer after someone gave me advice that was wrong

I am going to post pics when it's RE RE setup

I am unsure if I missed anyone
 
Lots of misunderstanding here on both sides. I'm sorry if I made that worse, but here on the open forum, If I say something dumbass, I get corrected. Sending me more PM's just makes both of us get more confused, and nobody to correct me when I'm wrong.

What I would do

remove that funny derailleur protector, at least till you have the wheel properly installed. Put it back on later, only if it does not interfere with anything.

Hammer that bent out dropout back straight.

Put the derailleur hanger back in place.

Install the wheel, with at least one torque arm on the non derailleur side. Front design TA can install fine on that type frame dropout. Make sure that all the nuts and washers bear perfectly flat on the frame, and or hanger. If you have to grind down a nut or washer to clear that hanger bolt, then do so. Tighten up the nuts. Wait 10 min, then try to tighten some more. Not too tight, but get them snug again, after the motor settles into the frame.

Test ride, then check the nuts again.

FWIW,, my first motor install, I made it a half mile, and had the wheel leave the bike. Ive been there bro. In my case, I cut the wires to the motor, and blew the controller. So that half mile ride cost me a couple hundred bucks.
 
badder.jpg

Slightly OT.. but one plus of the way the torque arm is mounted in that pic is that the rotation is pushing against the fork leg, and isn't really pulling on the hose clamp. With it the other way, its pulling on the bolt holes of the fork, and they're not very strong. They're meant for a disc brake, which would be pushing towards the fork leg too, not counting on the little thin rim of metal at the back in tension. Also there's a big bolt, or sometimes a rebound adjuster on most suspension fork legs right where the plate around the axle has to go when its facing the other way.

That being said, I'm not sure I would feel very safe even with torque arms on an alloy suspension fork depending on the power levels and riding styles one likes.
 
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