36v 350w controller issues

Snu

1 mW
Joined
Jun 15, 2018
Messages
17
Hi all

Having a bit of trouble with a "new" second hand bike I bought, it was sold as seen as not working, I got it back and it had no controller in it, just a load of bare wires that were'nt even tinned, bought a cheap unbranded controller and set about fixing it, I'm now at the point where I'm stumped 😒.
I think I have connected every think but still no joy when I use the throttle.
I have a pink, blue and orange wire from the anti theft plug left, the pink gives me 40.5v (battery voltage), the blue gives me 4.6v, the orange gives me 0v until I turn the wheel and the voltage goes up the faster I spin the wheel !!!

What do I need to do now !!

Any help very much appreciated.

Sorry for the poor quality of the photos as I had to resize to a very low res to post them.

Cheers

Clive
 

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Hey there,

It's hard to see from the pictures what's going on but i might be able to give you some general advice;

To my knolledge the alarm function on the controller doesn't have to be activated/dealth wit in order to make the controller work. I've never used this myself but i believe it just sends out a signal to an external (option) device that would provide you with a certain 'protection' when the alarm gets activated (somehow).

Here's a general wiring for the controller you have:

Orange or red wire (often both in a single connector 1 pin) are used to turn on the controller. One of the wires (orange) is normaly 0v, and the red wire is battery voltage. Sometimes there's no red battery voltage wire and only an orange wire, in this case it could be connected to battery postive to activate the controller.

Black/(green/blue/brown)/red 3 pin connector, this is for throttle. Connect your signal cable from the throttle to the (most often) middle wire in the connector. Black to black and red to red. The throttle gives a signal between 0.8 to 4.5~ volts in most cases.

On some controllers there are 2 cables (same color) which can be connected to each other with the connector they come with. This can be either a 'learning' mode to set the hall angle for the motor or either a regenerative function if braking.


In general to get a controller to do 'something':
Connect the correct voltage to black and red supply cables
Connect the 3 phase wires from the controller to the motor\
Connect the hall sensor cables (5 pc)
Connect the throttle

Activate the controller by connecting (most often) a orange or red (thin) cable to red battery postive.



Keep us updated, goodluck!

Tim
 
Looking again at the pictures i see that the cables are labled; care to share what they say?

My guess:
Yellow + black = brake
Brown = feedback from hall sensor (mostly unused)
Pink = could be the high speed setting or a boost setting; most often connected to ground to function, controller works without this being in use

2 red connectors; can be ignored, both are alarm
Black + white in white connector: Could be regenerate or if the cable is't black but blue it's cruse. If curse connect to ground short or permanent to activate cruse. brake to deactivate.

2 grey-ish/white -> activate regenerative braking if connected, my best guess

Orange wire -> could be the cable you'd have to connect to battery postive to activate the controller...... But it could also fry the controller if i'm wrong

:?
 
Hi Tim

Thanks for your reply, I have replied to your comments below.

Hey there,

It's hard to see from the pictures what's going on but i might be able to give you some general advice;

To my knolledge the alarm function on the controller doesn't have to be activated/dealth wit in order to make the controller work. I've never used this myself but i believe it just sends out a signal to an external (option) device that would provide you with a certain 'protection' when the alarm gets activated (somehow).

Here's a general wiring for the controller you have:

Orange or red wire (often both in a single connector 1 pin) are used to turn on the controller. One of the wires (orange) is normaly 0v, and the red wire is battery voltage. Sometimes there's no red battery voltage wire and only an orange wire, in this case it could be connected to battery postive to activate the controller.

The power connector comes with an extra red wire which I have connected to the main battery power wire.

Black/(green/blue/brown)/red 3 pin connector, this is for throttle. Connect your signal cable from the throttle to the (most often) middle wire in the connector. Black to black and red to red. The throttle gives a signal between 0.8 to 4.5~ volts in most cases.

I have connected red/red green/green and black/black, not checked for voltage.

On some controllers there are 2 cables (same color) which can be connected to each other with the connector they come with. This can be either a 'learning' mode to set the hall angle for the motor or either a regenerative function if braking.

I have connected these wires bit have had no response from either the throttle or the drive wheel.


In general to get a controller to do 'something':
Connect the correct voltage to black and red supply cables
Connect the 3 phase wires from the controller to the motor\
Connect the hall sensor cables (5 pc)
Connect the throttle

I have done this but still nothing, I did a youtube search for halls testing and the result came out as good.

Activate the controller by connecting (most often) a orange or red (thin) cable to red battery postive.

The controller now seems to be active but no response from the thottle ao drive wheel via self learning !!!

Keep us updated, goodluck!
 
What exacly do you mean by the extra wire comming from the battery positive? Is there an extra small red wire comming out of the controller?

Based on what do you believe the controller is now active?


-> The hall sensors shouldent be the problem at this point - if they're configured in a wrong combination the motor should still do something, either make a sound or spin slow/low torque or with a 'hum' on/off/on/off idea.


Try to never switch the red and black on the hall sensors. This could fry the hall sensors.

You can try this if you want to mess with the hall sensors:
Put 5v on the red wire, put negative on the black wire
use a voltmeter to measure the yellow/green/blue wire as you rotate the wheel. As you rotate the wheel everytime a different wire should be 5 volts.

If you can tell me why you think that the controller is active (so i can verify this) then we can move on with troubleshooting

Tim
 
This is a picture of the wiring diagram that is on the box it came in.
 
Here you go
 

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Give me a moment to look at that into detail; i've found this one laying around maybe you can relate to some of it:

https://i.imgur.com/oLtU49K.jpg

At the very top you can see the thin red wire, this is the ignition (connect to red positive)
Then second the blue/white, i dont know, could be cruse.
red/yellow/black is for PAs sensor (so it gives power when you rotate the pedels) Shouldent be required to spin the motor
Next connector is hall sensors
Red connector = alarm
white connector is for throttle (black/(green/red)/red
2 white wires could be for auto hall sensor or regen braking
Red connector could be alarm or a 3 speed mode, no use for basic controller use
Brown wire, green connector - feedback from hall sensor, no use
Red connector - alarm
Purple wire - e-brake
 
Tim, I have done the halls test and I get voltage/zero voltage when the wheel is moved on all 3 halls wires.

The reason I say the controller is now active is I have voltage on wires I didn't have before, not sure which ones now as this has been over a few weeks and I have been playing with another Ebike I am trying to fix (Giant twist with a pedal sensor issue....may be my next post when I fix this one :) )

Thanks for your help/advise
 
Did you apply 5 volts on the hall sensor red wire yourself to test them?

Either way if the controller is active it should output 5 volts on the red hall sensor wire..


You could try to connect the green or blue wire to black to set it into high or low speed. I'm not aware that this is required to spin the wheel normaly, but maybe this controller only has a high and low speed and its required to set one in order to spin up..

Tim
 
I'll try that tomorrow mate, thanks for your help mate.
 
I just tried bridging the high/low speed and still no joy, I also tested the red halls wire and that has 4.43v !!
Not sure what else I can try, is there a known way to test the wheel motor by bypassing the controller !!
 
If I need a new controller for just thumb throttle and pedal assist what would you recommend !!, it needs to be small to fit in the housing.
 
Jumping in with a comment. I see someone labelled a pair of wires as learning mode. I only had one controller with learning mode. Purpose was to auto figure the phase/hall wiring inside the controller memory if it was not done right originally by the user (there are 36 possible combinations but only one works).

It worked by powering up the controller with the learning mode wires connected. I recall that the wheel would spin as soon as the controller turned on (I had an LCD to see that), but don't remember if it kept spinning. Then I had to disconnect the jumper and power off. Now the controller would know how to drive the motor.
 
I have tried connecting the self learning wires but no wheel rotation, I'm thinking that the 5v needs to be earhed to create an on/off switch to power the motor...........only a hunch but a bit loathed to try it incase I blow something in the conroller and keep trying to fix it when it's dead already.
 
Update, I've just tested the voltage on the halls wires, I've got 0.7v on green, 4.1v on yellow and 4.1v on blue, so it looks like the controller needs replacing :?
 
Snu said:
Update, I've just tested the voltage on the halls wires, I've got 0.7v on green, 4.1v on yellow and 4.1v on blue, so it looks like the controller needs replacing :?

Measure them while slowly turning the motor. Each one should toggle from .7v to 4.1v as the motor turns.
 
Just tested them and yellow goes from 4.18 - 0.0 and back up quickly, blue is the same but green stays on 0.77 and does not move when the wheel is moved........so I think it's ready for the bin !!

If someone could point me in the direction on a controller that will run a throttle and pedal assist, oh and work 8)

Thanks for all your help chaps

Clive
 
It could actually be your motor. To be sure, disconnect the hall signal wires but leave the black and red power wires going to the halls and check the signals coming from the motor.

Alternately use a 9v battery to power the halls in the motor and measure the signals while moving the motor.
 
Thanks for your help, what signal am I looking for once I disconnect the halls wires !!

Cheers
 
Thanks, I'll check it out and see what results I get.
 
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