Geared hub motor toast?

barboma

100 mW
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
44
Location
Southern Idaho
I was taking the wheel off and noticed something I thought was weird. One side of the axle (the wired side) would turn somewhat freely compared to the other side. In other words I can turn each side of the axle in different directions. This motor has about 1500+ miles on it. Is the motor bad/defective? I haven't opened it up because I dont have all the right tools.
 
Something is wrong. Tell us what motor it is or show us a picture and we might have an idea what is wrong/how to make the tool.
 
motomech said:
Something is wrong. Tell us what motor it is or show us a picture and we might have an idea what is wrong/how to make the tool.

This would be the motor from the manufacturer: http://www.electricbikeoutfitters.com/ebo-electrichubmotors.aspx - Specifically the 36V 350WRear Brushless Geared Hub Motor.

My feeling on this is the the while the stators and magnets might be good, the cost of trying to open the motor up, replacing the axle and so on is going to be more than replacing the motor. Is that realistic? For example, I found this on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V500W-DGW25-rear-hub-motor-for-fat-bike/904105_32691458619.html. But, I would have to get a cassette and either have someone or try to lace the wheel myself. Totally bummed about this, everything was working fine until I took the wheel off when I didnt have to.
 
If the axle is completely fixed in place axially, and the only issue is that it rotates independently, it's possible that it will function perfectly normally as-is.

Since the issue was already there before removing it, if you experienced no problems with it up to that point, I'm not sure there's any worry about it, and putting it back on just like it was before will probably continue to operate normally. Myself, I'd do just that--put it back on and ride it just like before.

(I might also be looking for a replacement in case it ever did fail, but myself I'd probably open it up after failure to see what I could do about it. ;) ).

It's even possible that nothing is wrong at all, and it's designed that way. and you may simply not have noticed when originally installing it. Not likely, but possible. :)

FWIW, I have at least one geared hub here (tongxin) that has two separate axle sections, one on each side. One is integrated into the sun gear, and the other bolts onto the other side of the motor. Because there are recesses for it to fit into, and shoulders on it inside the hub shell, it would actually stay in place and function without being bolted to the motor. But it wouldn't be able to resist torque using that axle side, just the one with the sun gear on it. Given the very low power of that motor, I don't think it'd ever be a problem.

Not sure on yours without seeing the internals.
 
amberwolf said:
If the axle is completely fixed in place axially, and the only issue is that it rotates independently, it's possible that it will function perfectly normally as-is.

Since the issue was already there before removing it, if you experienced no problems with it up to that point, I'm not sure there's any worry about it, and putting it back on just like it was before will probably continue to operate normally. Myself, I'd do just that--put it back on and ride it just like before.

(I might also be looking for a replacement in case it ever did fail, but myself I'd probably open it up after failure to see what I could do about it. ;) ).

It's even possible that nothing is wrong at all, and it's designed that way. and you may simply not have noticed when originally installing it. Not likely, but possible. :)

FWIW, I have at least one geared hub here (tongxin) that has two separate axle sections, one on each side. One is integrated into the sun gear, and the other bolts onto the other side of the motor. Because there are recesses for it to fit into, and shoulders on it inside the hub shell, it would actually stay in place and function without being bolted to the motor. But it wouldn't be able to resist torque using that axle side, just the one with the sun gear on it. Given the very low power of that motor, I don't think it'd ever be a problem.

Not sure on yours without seeing the internals.

Thanks. You are probably right about it working fine as I have had no issues. My other problem, which will require me somehow opening the motor is that wiring that exits the motor got messed up, actually has been messed up, from about 3 months ago when I didn't tighten the axle bolts enough and it spun out. It has not been a problem, until now (was getting hall sensor errors), sound like the fragie wires finally broke. In addition, the threads on the axle are a little worn. Yes, my first e-bike, I have done a lot of thing I now know I shouldn't have. At least the battery and controller are both good.

So, I currently have the battery and controller off and will operate as a normal bike for the time being, at least until I can get a clearer picture on what to do here. Also, there is absolutely no way the seller is going to warranty this, so I have two options as of present, buy a new motor or try to fix the one I have. I guess a new motor is going to cost about $200, a cassette, about $50. And maybe labor for someone to lace and true the wheel.

What are your thoughts on my situation?
 
THe wire issue may be easy to fix without opening it up, if the damage is far enough out past the axle end to just re-insulate each wire from the others, and if necessary splice broken ones back together.

If the damage is too close to the axle end, you may have to open the motor up and pull the wire *into* the motor, then splice stuff as needed, and leave the repaired part inside the motor. If there's no room for an extra loop of wire to live inside the motor, you may have to cut out the damaged section and splice all the wires separately, and reinsulate everything, instead of just the damaged ones.

It's a common enough problem, and repair--just a bit harder on some of the geared hubs vs most of the DD hubs.

Based on this pic
http://www.electricbikeoutfitters.com/images/products/detail/RearBlackGearedMotorWeb.jpg
It looks like the wire-side side cover just unbolts, and then can be pulled off to expose the interior. Don't know which side the gears and clutch will be on, but they probably would be on the other side, out of the way. Probably all you have to do is remove all the outer edge screws, then gently push the axle end on the non-wire side on a hard surface (concrete), and it should push the motor out of the casing, as long as all the axle nuts and washers are off of the axle. You don't have to pull the motor out all the way, just enough to pop the wire-side cover loose.

Then you can pull the wire-side cover off, and access the inside to do the cable repair.


That's basically what I did years ago with similar geared hub by Fusin, when I spun it out on DayGlo Avenger. :oops: Except I cut the wires and refed them thru the axle--pulling it thru from inside and then cutting the damaged stuff out is easier.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15570&p=355453&hilit=fusin+spun#p355453

BTW, the pics there show that even that motor has one axle side bolted to the motor, rather than being a solid axle. ;)
 
amberwolf said:
THe wire issue may be easy to fix without opening it up, if the damage is far enough out past the axle end to just re-insulate each wire from the others, and if necessary splice broken ones back together.

If the damage is too close to the axle end, you may have to open the motor up and pull the wire *into* the motor, then splice stuff as needed, and leave the repaired part inside the motor. If there's no room for an extra loop of wire to live inside the motor, you may have to cut out the damaged section and splice all the wires separately, and reinsulate everything, instead of just the damaged ones.

It's a common enough problem, and repair--just a bit harder on some of the geared hubs vs most of the DD hubs.

Based on this pic
http://www.electricbikeoutfitters.com/images/products/detail/RearBlackGearedMotorWeb.jpg
It looks like the wire-side side cover just unbolts, and then can be pulled off to expose the interior. Don't know which side the gears and clutch will be on, but they probably would be on the other side, out of the way. Probably all you have to do is remove all the outer edge screws, then gently push the axle end on the non-wire side on a hard surface (concrete), and it should push the motor out of the casing, as long as all the axle nuts and washers are off of the axle. You don't have to pull the motor out all the way, just enough to pop the wire-side cover loose.

Then you can pull the wire-side cover off, and access the inside to do the cable repair.


That's basically what I did years ago with similar geared hub by Fusin, when I spun it out on DayGlo Avenger. :oops: Except I cut the wires and refed them thru the axle--pulling it thru from inside and then cutting the damaged stuff out is easier.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15570&p=355453&hilit=fusin+spun#p355453

Yes, the damage is to close to the axle, unfortunately.

I think you are right about the cover just needing to be unbolted and the motor needing to pushed out. I will go ahead and try to open it up and see what we have. Without seeing inside, I think it ultimately can be fixed. If not I have already sourced a replacement for $130 (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DGW07C-MD-36v250w-silver-rear-hub-motor-for-electric-bike/904105_32691505912.html).
 
amberwolf said:
THe wire issue may be easy to fix without opening it up, if the damage is far enough out past the axle end to just re-insulate each wire from the others, and if necessary splice broken ones back together.

If the damage is too close to the axle end, you may have to open the motor up and pull the wire *into* the motor, then splice stuff as needed, and leave the repaired part inside the motor. If there's no room for an extra loop of wire to live inside the motor, you may have to cut out the damaged section and splice all the wires separately, and reinsulate everything, instead of just the damaged ones.

It's a common enough problem, and repair--just a bit harder on some of the geared hubs vs most of the DD hubs.

Based on this pic
http://www.electricbikeoutfitters.com/images/products/detail/RearBlackGearedMotorWeb.jpg
It looks like the wire-side side cover just unbolts, and then can be pulled off to expose the interior. Don't know which side the gears and clutch will be on, but they probably would be on the other side, out of the way. Probably all you have to do is remove all the outer edge screws, then gently push the axle end on the non-wire side on a hard surface (concrete), and it should push the motor out of the casing, as long as all the axle nuts and washers are off of the axle. You don't have to pull the motor out all the way, just enough to pop the wire-side cover loose.

Then you can pull the wire-side cover off, and access the inside to do the cable repair.


That's basically what I did years ago with similar geared hub by Fusin, when I spun it out on DayGlo Avenger. :oops: Except I cut the wires and refed them thru the axle--pulling it thru from inside and then cutting the damaged stuff out is easier.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15570&p=355453&hilit=fusin+spun#p355453

BTW, the pics there show that even that motor has one axle side bolted to the motor, rather than being a solid axle. ;)

OK, got the freewheel and motor cover off and unfortunately the axle is broken, completely separated on the wire side. I am not sure how I have been riding around in this state. I never noticed anything really obvious to indicate that this was the case. I guess its good that this is discovered now and not some catastrophic failure while en route somewhere putting my safety at risk.

Anyway, at this point I think I might be looking at a new motor. I am not sure what is involved in replacing the axle but it probably involves taking the motor completely out? Trying to weigh the pro' s and con's and find the best solution.

I will try to get picture today but the axle has obviously failed.

Would something like this from Aliexpress work? I have 29 inch wheels. It says up to 28 inch on the page but my current wheel has 36 spokes, so shouldn't it work?

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DGW07C-MD-36v250w-silver-rear-hub-motor-for-electric-bike/904105_32691505912.html
 
So thinking about this more, couldn't the motor still work safely even with one side of the axle is not permanently affixed? The motor cover holds it straight with 6 or 8 screws and the ball bearing should keep it from coming out. From what I know, the gears are on the right side and the motor wires are on the left. The left side of the axle (as looking from back of bike) is the one that has broke and probably been broke for some undetermined amount of time. So wouldn't that mean the actually turning of the wheel is happening on the gear side, the right? Assuming that is true, would that cause long term issues with torque? We are talking about about a low wattage motor here, max 450w but typically use is around 60 to 150w. I dont use it to climb many hills. Even with the left axle being broke, I did not notice any strangeness.

I will get pictures today. I know that will help see what I am talking about here.
 
barboma said:
So thinking about this more, couldn't the motor still work safely even with one side of the axle is not permanently affixed? The motor cover holds it straight with 6 or 8 screws and the ball bearing should keep it from coming out.
You're not seriously trying to talk yourself in to using a hub motor with a sheared axle, are you?
 
billvon said:
barboma said:
So thinking about this more, couldn't the motor still work safely even with one side of the axle is not permanently affixed? The motor cover holds it straight with 6 or 8 screws and the ball bearing should keep it from coming out.
You're not seriously trying to talk yourself in to using a hub motor with a sheared axle, are you?

Haha, on second thought, no.

Any thoughts then on this as a replacement? I fairly certain the dropout size is 135mm. The current hub has 36 spokes. And from other sources, it like this motor has built in speed and hall sensors. Plus it uses the same kind of Higo connector and one would hope the wiring is identical but I am not sure if I can tell definitively. My other option is going straight plug and play from the seller but that's going to cost way more, probably 2-3x more.

Then there is the issue of getting the wheels laced, never doing this before, I wouldn't be comfortable doing that, which means I will having to find somebody to do it.

Anyway, have you any thoughts on this situation?

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DGW07C-MD-36v250w-silver-rear-hub-motor-for-electric-bike/904105_32691505912.html
 
Images:

https://m.imgur.com/a/RTugii8


So I called the seller because I was curious, not expecting much. About $350 for a motor that is easily replaceable in the current housing and rim. The bearings look good on either side. The only caveat is price and the fact that two of the screw heads are broken off and I will have to see if I can extract them (third picture in link). Otherwise about $430 a whole new rear wheel.

Any advice on the best course of action would be greatly appreciated.
 
If the replacement motor is exactly the same as the one you have, then the spoke flanges are the same and you can simply unlace the motor and relace the new one in.

If you do it one spoke at a time, then you can be sure of lacing it back the way it was originally. There are a lot of places on ES and the web to see how to do lacing a wheel, but if you do it one spoke at a time and be careful to follow exactly how it already was (take pictures for reference!) then you can easily do the lacing part. Then just doing the tensioning and truing might take some learning, but if you have a local bike shop you may be able to take it to them for that last part, if you already have it laced up.

Lots cheaper than a whole new wheel, and would probably be built better. :)
 
amberwolf said:
If the replacement motor is exactly the same as the one you have, then the spoke flanges are the same and you can simply unlace the motor and relace the new one in.

If you do it one spoke at a time, then you can be sure of lacing it back the way it was originally. There are a lot of places on ES and the web to see how to do lacing a wheel, but if you do it one spoke at a time and be careful to follow exactly how it already was (take pictures for reference!) then you can easily do the lacing part. Then just doing the tensioning and truing might take some learning, but if you have a local bike shop you may be able to take it to them for that last part, if you already have it laced up.

Lots cheaper than a whole new wheel, and would probably be built better. :)

Stuck in a hard place here. Not sure what to do. Still processing my options.

As mentioned, there are two screws where the head broke off the motor cover. I tried to extract them however they are pretty small (M5, I believe) and the drill bit doesnt want to get into the screw. So I am not sure if that's a total loss here. If it is then I have two options. 1) order a new motor from seller (the one I linked from Aliexpress probably wont work, they have customized it their version) and attempt to unlace/lace new motor and body on to existing rim and spokes or 2) get a new wheel/motor entirely which has the advantage of being plug and play out of the box. The price difference between the two options is about $120. And the price for a whole new wheel and motor is about but less than half of what I paid for the kit to begin with. And just the motor is about a 4th.

But whats is constant is that a new motor is needed and whats negotiable is if I want to try and do the lacing. I have concerns on that as I have never done anything remotely close to that before. But the concept is somewhat simple, just taking one spoke off at a time.
 
I am going to go ahead and order a new wheel and motor due to my lackluster repair skills :lol: :lol: and somewhat of a time crunch as I do have a car but the ebike is my main mode of transportation. I guess I can console myself in that a new motor for a car would be about 5x as much.

Anyway, due to my lack of knowledge on this stuff, I am pretty sure I destroyed that axle by not addressing those broken cover screws sooner, not tightening and looking at the spokes and over tightening the axle nuts. I think that all that abuse combined after 1500+ miles did the trick. I cant imagine that the axle would break otherwise during normal road use.

Lesson learned and wallet depleted. :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
I doubt the cover screws had anything to do with the broken axle. I can't see your pics, but if it's broken on the wire side, then it's probably broken where the wire "duct" goes thru it. Also, I'd bet that it's also at one of the stress risers where there's a shoulder for a cover bearing.

I've seen broken axles here on ES and my own personal experiences for a number of reasons, some of which appear to just plain be defective axles, made of recycled beer cans or whatever metal was laying around to toss in the melting pot at the time. ;)

Some are actually well-made...but not most of them. Cheap is the name of the game, so the least expensive way to get and make things is how it's all done, whether it works or not.


I've broken three axles on my SB Cruiser trike, but it's several hundred pounds with me and cargo, and there's some severe potholes around here that I avoid as much as possible, but sometimes can't due to traffic around me. That took two out. The third was broken where the wire duct goes thru, due to shockload from sudden reversal of twisting forces caused by a bug in a motor controller I'm testing.


FWIW, many of these geared hubs use the same tooth counts and gear shapes and sizes, so you may be able to use parts from the broken motor to fix the new one if that should ever happen. :)
 
The EBO pictures indicate the motor has the usual motor connector with male pins. That means your aliexpress motor has the same connector and should work. It's a freewheel motor. Your existing freewheel should spin on.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DGW07C-MD-36v250w-silver-rear-hub-motor-for-electric-bike/904105_32691505912.html

Now you get the wheel laced into the old rim. Just my opinion, but unless you go to a really experienced bike shop, they will probably do it no better than you, and they may do worse, if they have never seen a hub motor. I figured it would be about $50 in labor to get it done, but then I would have to listen to the shop guy moan and groan about ebikes making it extra hard. So I just did myself.

A new rim is about $25 and spokes will be about a dollar each. You have to wait til you get a motor and rim before you can use the online Grin spoke calculator to to figure out the spoke length.

I would suggest buying a new rim because then you can use the old one as a guide. Watch a youtube video on lacing. This gal's video is what I followed. Works for 26" wheels.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIU6mi0K4Y4
 
amberwolf said:
Some are actually well-made...but not most of them. Cheap is the name of the game, so the least expensive way to get and make things is how it's all done, whether it works or not.

One thing I really struggle with is that cheapness. I have had more problems than someone probably should have with this kit (Controller issue after 500 miles, battery connector issue at 1k miles and motor replacement after 1500 miles). My first instinct it to blame seller, but I know the company more or less just curates all the parts and stamps their logo on them. Plus, I know I have admittedly done some irresponsible things too. But still. I am not saying the kit is falling apart at every turn but at the same time its not rock solid. Maybe I need to manage my expectations? And it doesn't help that the seller only wants to sell me stuff and not warranty items and relies on the ambiguity of a customer installed kit to cast doubt about who is responsible.

Anyway, still really happy that I went the e-bike route, but its really a caveat emptor type thing, unless you know a lot or enough to do all the curating yourself. But also still thankful I have these problems because I am learning a fair bit.

Thanks for the help/information, I am sure I will be posting another problem (not to soon, hopefully) :D :D :D :D
 
docw009 said:
The EBO pictures indicate the motor has the usual motor connector with male pins. That means your aliexpress motor has the same connector and should work. It's a freewheel motor. Your existing freewheel should spin on.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DGW07C-MD-36v250w-silver-rear-hub-motor-for-electric-bike/904105_32691505912.html

Now you get the wheel laced into the old rim. Just my opinion, but unless you go to a really experienced bike shop, they will probably do it no better than you, and they may do worse, if they have never seen a hub motor. I figured it would be about $50 in labor to get it done, but then I would have to listen to the shop guy moan and groan about ebikes making it extra hard. So I just did myself.

A new rim is about $25 and spokes will be about a dollar each. You have to wait til you get a motor and rim before you can use the online Grin spoke calculator to to figure out the spoke length.

I would suggest buying a new rim because then you can use the old one as a guide. Watch a youtube video on lacing. This gal's video is what I followed. Works for 26" wheels.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIU6mi0K4Y4

Thanks for the information! I am not sure I am brave enough to go that far yet, but one day maybe.
 
barboma said:
I am not saying the kit is falling apart at every turn but at the same time its not rock solid. Maybe I need to manage my expectations? And it doesn't help that the seller only wants to sell me stuff and not warranty items and relies on the ambiguity of a customer installed kit to cast doubt about who is responsible.
It depends on what you're willing to pay. Paying more doesn't guarantee better stuff, but known-reputable vendors are going to generally cost more, because they have support overhead, and have to amortize the costs of that support as well as defective stuff across the sale of all the other items.

They may still sell the cheap stuff, but it won't be as cheap as other places that don't offer support/etc. ANd likely they'll also have better stuff, that will cost significantly more, but be more reliable.

Vendors that sell stuff close to their cost are unable to eat the cost of defective parts, so their customers have to do that instead.

So if you've got the money, and want to just ride and not fix things, or at least have reliable help when you do have to, there are vendors that do a bit better than others. Picking one that's as local to you as possible also helps, becuase then shipping times and costs are reduced or eliminated durign warranty repairs. Grin Tech, EM3EV, etc., are good, though nobody is perfect, and there are plenty of others out there too.

Unfortunately just about any site that is a site full of various sellers, is going to be a crapshoot, even though the competition is likely to make things cheaper.


However, even the "more reliable" stuff that "good" vendors sell, which still comes from the same places originally that the cheap stuff does, is going to have problems, mostly in design and manufacturing processes. Some places like Grin Tech spend money on R&D on designing and testing better ways to do things, and get stuff made based on that. Sometimes that trickles down into copies of the better stuff, but the copies are not necessarily faithful ones, and that is a critical thing--just because it *looks* the same doesn't mean it works the same.


One example: Manufacturing stuff like axles and other machined parts is not quite as simple as just picking up a bar of metal and chucking it in a lathe; the design has to be made with the experience and training of what won't fail under the uses it will be put, with a large margin of safety added. Not just "Hmmm..let's just stick a piece of threaded rod in there and spot weld it to the stator, then have them grind flats into it to fit in the dropouts".

Then the actual materials have to be correct, and of good quality, and they ahve to be cast or rolled or otherwise processed correctly; there are many ways to make a metal part, and each way has problems that are created by the process, which make it unsuitable for some uses. Not just "melt that old pile of assorted metal down and pour it into these round-ish holes in a mold".

Then the machining of the part has to be done the right way, exactly as it was designed, with the right tools and cleanup processes, and then any post-machining processes have to be done correctly. Not just "all these chamfers and shoulders and polishings are time consuming and hard to do; let's just cut them all as straight edges and leave it raw; i'll be easier and cheaper to do". "hardening costs too much and takes too long". etc.


And then the parts have to be assembled correctly without improper handling. Not just "oh, it's a little tight" "no problem, just use that 10lb sledgehammer; it makes everything fit".

Unfortunatley too much of the time it seems like the "Not just..."s up there are how it's done, to one degree or another. It's not just China-made stuff either--it's worldwide, and it's all about the money.

Good stuff *is* designed, and made, but often enough the money-handlers get in the way of the process even when the designers and makers know what they're doing, and steps get left out that are very important to the final result. And too often, the designers or makers don't know what they're doing, and the product was doomed before the money-handlers got to it...but then *they* get to it and make it even worse.
 
I'm not sure that this is going to be helpfulbut at least you warned us about EBO not being helpful to your cause. It solves my problem of who not to order from. An axle should not break under normal ebike conditions. That motor looks a bit like a Bafang. Is that the brand?

If so I know who not to order from.

Thanks and I hope you solve your problem. Cute Q100H work well and don't seem to break. I have one on my trike for about 3 years with no problems.
Good luck.
otherDoc
 
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