Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

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Merlin   1 MW

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by Merlin » Sep 02 2019 7:57am

jameswalker wrote:
Sep 02 2019 3:28am

I am more interested in decent control of the throttle during the wheelie.

Should I start saving for the 24F?!
throttle control wise, special for wheelies, works pretty smooth. makes wheelies really easy.
if you have to wait anyway i would go 24F.

but your mxus is not that amp monster. so a 12F will overheat your Mxus also pretty fast (on full settings)

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by jameswalker » Sep 03 2019 3:38am

My MXUS is not quite ready for use yet, so I used my existing geared motor wheel build (BMC torque).

I wasn't successful getting the auto tune to work with this motor (I set the poles to 16 first, as instructed) but at the end of the auto tune, the wheel spins, I got "hall fail" error.

I managed to commute to work sensorless, I need to play with the acceleration / clutch config because I limited it too much.

Has anyone succeeded in autotune with a geared hub motor? Any tips to get it working? I know the motor halls are fine, as I literally just moved it off the working bike!

So far I am enjoying this controller. Even sensorless, with the acceleration and clutch config, it makes for a much smoother ride than before.

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by jameswalker » Sep 03 2019 4:05pm

I found the problem; where I had moved the wheel over, the ground wire had chaffed where it left the axle. I will repair that tomorrow and fingers crossed the auto tune will work.

As a side note, I was provided these instructions on how to debug the halls. Very useful info!

Go to controller - debug information - hall input,
There are 3 digits representing 3 hall inputs, spin motor slowly with hand and see if all of them are changing

Obviously when I did this, none of them changed, given the halls were not grounded.

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by Souvlucky » Sep 04 2019 8:55am

Here is some feedback following:
-300km with 12F at 16S;
-1300km with combined 12F + 6F at 16S + 13S respectively;
-300kms on single 12F at 16S;
-then another 300kms on 12F+6F at 16S for both controllers

Total ~2150kms running different Nucular configs to test and review as much as possible.
In this review I will focus mostly on 2WD 16S + 13S synchronization and performance results.
It's quite a long post, two parts.

[TL;DR: Nucular controllers simply epic :bolt: :twisted:]

[PART 1]

Two battery pack used: 12F on 16S for rear motor; 6F on 13S for front motor.
Each pack wired separately to one Nucular LCD - so x2 Nucular LCDs on handlebar.
Controllers are working as two separate Nucular networks.

Battery packs of different nominal voltage this way may be used on the same build at same time.
For 2+WD Nucular applications seeing same nominal voltage battery pack/s, only 1 x Nucular LCD can connect to and control all controllers inside the same Nucular network.

12F setting at Mode 3 is 80A with ~180Ap. Played up to 90A/95A and 240Ap bursts - wheelies no problem
6F setting for Mode 3: 56A with 120Ap. Went up to 58A/60A bursts - front spins no problem

Motors turned for speed (3T).
Face value per motor 1500W nominal. Nucular FOC around 4kW continuous achievable without serious motor heat and without FF/cooling mods
On 12F: motor peaks around 5800W, hit 240+Ap. Motor with slightly bigger neodymiums hit 6500W and 249,8Ap. Pop wheelies on Torque mode is such fun :)
On 13S: '1500W nominal' smaller motor peaked ~3300W and 120Aph

Combined peak performance for NUC 12F+6F at about ~9.8kW for this 2WD.
Current (2WD) top speed: 95/96kmh using 16S rear + 13S front with ~60A for Nucular FW.
About +13km/h than without FW around 83km/h.
96kmh.jpg
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Independent 2WD Nucular Throttle Sync:
Throttle used is a typical motorcycle grip.
Two mechanical hall boxes are used:
-The moto grip line is doubled using a Domino splitter;
-The two splitted mechanical throttle cables are mechanically wired to each hall box module;
-Each hall box is electronically wired to each Nucular LCD-controller pair.
Nucular right throttle (acceleration).jpg
Nucular right throttle (acceleration).jpg (57.81 KiB) Viewed 953 times
Synchronizing the throttle take-off on both Nucular controllers wired to different nominal voltage pack is made very easy:
Each controller auto-identifies one throttle value, then the throttle band may be adjusted using #Throttle min./max., through LCD all electronically, to personalize each motor behavior.
On Nucular, throttle - as brake - values are expressed in mVs (!) and can be adjusted in 10mV increments (!)

To match the throttle acceleration on throttle twist for both front and rear motors:
-The #throttle min. is auto-identified from to the Nucular itself using the "auto-setup" menu -> "throttle".
The "# Throttle min." value is then adjusted starting from the found resting value for each throttle box at its respective mV value.
-The auto-identified value can taken up/down in 10mV increments (on each LCD) so that on free-wheel throttle ramp up on both (independent) front/rear motors is closely synch'ed.
That way both motors "take" on at the same time on single moto throttle twist.
-Final quick road test allows to understand the effective throttle ramp-up of the EV, and helps to slightly readjust (some tens of mVs;) the #throttle min. value to sync even more accurately both motors at single throttle twist.

TIP! For more aggressive acceleration, as mentioned by Lukas, a small trick can be used to shorten the throttle band:
Narrowing the throttle max from 2.8V to 4.4V mechanically (here, on hall boxes) and also electronically through Nucular LCD (here on both LCD for FWD and RWD separately).
Using hall control boxes we can limit their swing by shortening the mechanical cables and re-screwing the cable-end in way that hall boxes position at rest may be around 3V, rather than the default ~0.9V "rest value" of throttle at iddle/untouched.
The throttle band until 4.4V would then become narrower and throttle more aggressive for same mechanical throttle pull as before.
Re-run auto-identify (5 seconds) for Throttle and follow same process above, and good to go.

Independent 2WD Nucular Variable Regen Sync:
Here same setup for usual throttle applies to variable regen.
This time, a typical moto grip is installed on left hand-side of handlebar (used as left grip).
(Sure, the throttle is in "upside-down" position, but this matters little as inside many inner moto throttle tubes the cable nay be set mechanically to "pull" or "push" twist position - as well as mechanical "rapid" or "normal" twist motion.)

Hence, for independent 2WD variable regen on single left throttle/grip, two more hall boxes are used;
-Moto grip gets splitted/doubled coming from the left throttle towards pulling at the same time both hall boxes modules used for regen.
-Each hall boxed is wired to the analog brake side of each Nucular controller-LCD pair (at controller or at LCD, since we have that choice 8) )
-#Brake min./max. values on each LCD are auto-identified ("Auto-setup" -> "Brake") are then re-adjusted using same process as above to obtain synchronized ramp-up on regen for F+R.

Naturally, the regen brake band can also be narrowed:
Electronically: # Brake min. and # Brake max. values for each controller may can be adjusted.
Mechanically: the same process goes for shortening splited cables (from splitter towards each regen hall box), to obtain stronger regen on regen throttle twist.
Nucular left throttle (regen).jpg
Nucular left throttle (regen).jpg (54.2 KiB) Viewed 953 times
Using this setup, e-scooter with two independent Nucular systems/each seeing a different voltage battery pack can be ridden using almost only the grips:
right throttle accelerates, left ("inverse" or "normal" twist) throttle decelerates using variable regen.
Truly works wonders.

Some other setting which can affect throttle/regen behavior:
-"Control modes" menu > "Current change" fields, for "-Acceleration" and for "-Braking": controls how fast current changes inside controllers (explained in wiki).
-"Control" menu > "Brake phase" field (in Amps) for motor regen, freely adjustable
-Nucular throttle filtering (oh yeah): comes with Linear, Quadratic, Cubic filtering correction and Throttle filtering factor, for even more thorough throttle tuning.

12F+6F Nuculars here are top mounted on deck to receive free air-flow.
Nuculars not easy (!) to heat up
Considering performance and size, very impressive such thermal management may be (theoretically) and is (in facts, on real road tests) attained.

Tested 12F+6F combo under highest temperature recorded, more than 42C without considering road temperature (~55C).
Nuculars reached 50C following 15-20 minutes withheld runs from take-off to top-speed.
Only for couple seconds saw 50C and rapidly falling 49C....48C....even at idlle with such small delta between controller temp and ambient temp.
IMPRESSIVE!
For such tiny size, it's wizardry how much Nucular controllers have in their bellies.
6F cuteness.jpg
6F cuteness.jpg (107.62 KiB) Viewed 953 times
The efficiency (particularly in FOC mode, IMO & IME) is simply ridiculous.
Recorded 30Wh/km for typical 2WD urban use (22Wh/km on FWD + 8Wh/km on RWD, with mentioned setup).
28Wh/km on average for single 12F all same equal but with overclocked [phase amps:battery amps] ratio of 3:1.
As low as 25Wh/km at 2.4:1 ratio and 22~24Wh/km with respecting 2:1 phase/battery amps ratio - as recommended in Nucular wiki (1.5:1 to 2:1).
Cooler motor and happier battery :)
(The above data is including stop-go's within city - without thinking to hold back much throttle compared to typical riding at car cadence within city)
Even hit 21Wh/km with "eco" riding (limit throttle opening/torque creation starting from dead-stops).

Even pushed hard (outside urban center) Nucular converts so very few Wh to a given performance!
I am recording ~30% gains in efficiency/Wh savings since my previous ~15000kms ridden using (MUCH) less developed, O.E.M, some Bluetooth, all Chinese and trap controllers.
(As if that could be a valid point of reference or comparison to Nucular, hah!)

Exploring settings and parameters available can make the ride more "eco" (1.5:1 to 2:1 phase amps, at S1 or S2 preset...) or "whip-your-arse" kind or experience (overlocking phase amps, not controller acceleration limits, PID tuning - I limit my use of S3 'all in' mode thanks to latching handlebar switch)
Since performance is not a compromise on efficiency (all hail NUC FOC + Torque mode!!) the whole Nucular experience becomes all the more impressive :warn:

The UI with the LCD is at first slightly overpowering but given a few days it unveils its hidden universe inside.
It is the gift that keeps on giving, to run Nucular. 8)
There's not so much being/becoming "used to it", with all the options and possibilities it packs. There's quite a lot to discover.

Safe to say Nucular controllers create a league of their own - as does the Nucular LCD.
Switches and button functions may be assigned and re-assigned individually for each of the many (7? or 8? different) I/O inputs that can be wired to LCD directly.
Long gone the times of physically re-wiring anything at all...all can be (re-)programmed through LCD. Only a couple - comfortable and sure - LCD clicks away! Love that.

Many useful practical functionalities inside Nucular package.
To name only few, Converter mode - charging battery using PSU through motor coil.
And LCD heater functions, to avoid condensation, for use in sub-freezing climates...
Two PWM outputs. USB Charger (5V 2.1A) built-into LCD and already pre-wired.
LED and brake lights (if not too power hungry) may be wired to controller 12V supply. For easier set-up LED could be 5V and use USB Charger power supply! (plug and play, can assign switch to turn on and off USB charger)
Complete list of features is long and thorough on Nucular.Tech and wiki explain them all better :)
Don't think one can find "half-baked" in the Nucular dictionnary!!
Last edited by Souvlucky on Sep 17 2019 5:00am, edited 13 times in total.
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Souvlucky   1 µW

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by Souvlucky » Sep 04 2019 8:56am

[PART 2]

NUCULAR MOTOR CONTROL - COMMUTATION METHODS
Commutation methods may be switched easily "on-the-fly", they are only some LCD clicks! away.
Also, there are two fields:
-"Control mode": the field setting with commutation method that gets saved/re-loaded at LCD restart, and:
-"Control mode now": for testing purposes and not saved at LCD restart.
Highly practical and handy: when discovering Nucular; upgrading motor and wanting to test behavior...for making "e-rocket" sounds using Combined mode in packed urban centers to alert people around... :D
To further tune the motor there is dedicated "Manual motor setup" part within "Motor setup" through Nucular LCD.
Luxury!

[FOC]: total silence. can hear the lone summer cricket :)
Even at low RPMs for startup and regen, hardly hear anything on FOC.
Even in WOT, EV remains virtually silent.
Only lightest whizzing sound even at hard accelerations. (With helmet, pretty much noiseless riding)
FOC pulls like mad! (a tad more than other modes in my experience)
FOC on stand-up e-scooter eliminates the vibrations on the deck and chassis going back the knees.
Noises and Wh losses are strictly limited. Very happy!
Coupled with huge efficiency gains, less vibrations make for much longer and comfortable rides possible (after ~1h riding usually on stand-up scooter, now on FOC it comes with welcome 'lag' a bit later)
The silence of FOC commutation also better helps focus on nearby sounds/cars/pedestrians/lending an ear to the ambient environment, improving riding awareness/safety and makes the whole experience more seamless.
FOC with Torque mode = smooth as silk riding experience! (nb. NUC throttle control modes feedback further down)

[COMBINED MODE]
Uses halls at startup then switches to sensorless mode above.
The hall -> hall-less switching threshold can be adjusted/tuned easily as well.
Nucular Combined mode sounds like Gogoro scooters with big Bosch motors making "electric rocket" sounds!
Combined Mode throttle / regen ramp-up develops those high-powered electric scooter sounds as well.
Typically not associated with electric "kick" scooters :D
Quite fond personally of the singing motor tunes of "Combined mode". The "electric rocket" sounds on regen below 20kmh are simply a laugh, truly e-rocket "sound of the future".
It's also noticeable that on Nucular Combined mode, people notice the (so-proclaimed, by some) "machine de guerre" (war machine). However on FOC that seems to disappear with the scooter blending in the city noises so innocuously.

[SENSORLESS MODE]
Smoother operation at higher RPMs right now - oh, well :D
Highly valuable in case of hall failure or in case of hall-less motor.

[SQUARE]
There is grand luxury of FOC right now, so far Nucular has come.
Most know square/trap commutation, allow me to skip

NUCULAR THROTTLE MODES
-"SPEED" mode:
Woah.
From dead-stop, a light touch of throttle (controllers settings without acceleration/RPM limit) and, on Speed mode, e-scooter attempts "fly-offs".
(Handlebar literally attempted to take off from my hands by itself on Speed mode. Front tire screeching like crazy and spining on meters - "hold handlebar for your life" kind of acceleration)
Can get pretty crazy pretty fast for startups with Speed mode. A bit like re-discovering new limits to the hardware (BLDCs/battery pack)
Jamming the throttle WOT with release of brake at takeoff has become arduous task on stand-up scooter: nearly not enough time at takeoff to re-calibrate body position and maintain correct balance!
Profoundly surprising torque. Seems like under "Speed mode" more tuning (or "taming") of this Nucular beast is needed.
(For this purpose 12F + 6F were kept with Acceleration limit "0", but it could of course be different.)
Here motors and battery packs are of moderate performance, 10kW all combined at peaks and about half at continuous operationg, controllers can take much more! (just to picture the possibilities)

-"SPEED+TORQUE" motor control mode:
Keeps the speed steady once reaching the equivalent throttle band opened for given speed (unique to each build naturally).
One could say "Speed+Torque" is similar to motorcycle throttle experience.
Ramp-up is slighty more progressive and less brutal than "Speed" mode at start-up, say until ~30kmh; then "Speed+Torque" mode feels slightly more nervous than "Speed" mode.
(Prob due to the fact motors are 3T/high speed rather not nervous take-offs; hence, controlling speed (only) from dead-stop the pull is strongest on Speed mode however above certain threshold, controlling speed using motor phase amps on top of speed seems to make more nervous throttle behavior on Speed+Torque mode, around the speed of these motors "sweet spot" in regards to BLDC properties)

-"TORQUE" motor control mode:
The one and only, the unique and marvelous: Nucular Torque mode!
Direct control of motor torque/phase amps.
This is some wizardry right there. Torque mode allows the most precise and sensitive motor control - silky smooth user control of torque and speed!

Using Torque mode it is theoretically possible to achieve any speed for any given twist position of throttle.
For example: one can let go of the throttle entirely, then quickly jam it back into position only a tiny bit to achieve "manual cruising"/constant speed.
With a light throttle retwist, hop! you are off cruising steadily at the present speed, and then whole (mechanical) throttle band has opened-up again for you to operate. Truly fine control.
Fewer battery discharge peaks and motor phase peaks, lower voltage sag, better efficiency, overall experience that is much easier on body fatigue as well (much happier wrists, much easier body re-calibration on throttle openings and expected performance)
Another gift of Nucular Torque control (+FOC for the complete pack): pop wheelies!
Easy does it: jam rapidly the throttle open + quickly release it and re-open quickly until lift is maintained. Repeat...repeat...repeat... :D

I also notice my right hand kept at almost resting position while riding Torque mode is really comfortable (using the aforementionned "manual cruising" trick to release wrist in case of long rides).
Makes for more relaxing trips, once used to it it becomes a second nature to ride in Torque + FOC mode :)

Further even, the body position for stand-up scooter stop being a hastle and truly starts becoming fun (on pretty-high-powered/small wheels stand-up e-scooters, too much power can be difficult to control fluidly at one's "own will" and not the scooter's)
Not having to think about throttle control anymore (trying to continuously correct the speed and torque of the vehicle), one can put the efforts towards better body positioning and re-calibration in sync with throttle.
This results in a feeling where the LEV becomes "an extension" of oneself, rather than a abrupt machine aiming to reach a desire speed or to develop a certain torque at the relative pull of the throttle. Before, it used to be that throttle always seemed "relative" in one's mind with the e-scooter not in full control of the rider. Not anymore :D
After a while of getting used to torque mode, it makes riding highly intuitive and easy-going.
In theory even first-timer could take hop on the scooter and start riding around with it.
The "mind-to-body-to-ride" fluidity on Nucular Torque mode (+ FOC, the one and only) is truly where I can rightfully take my hat of and say, in bowing to it: awe-some!


Put together the attributes of Nucular package make for uniques rides, experiences and product:
Performance;
+ Efficiency;
+ Flexibility (parameters);
+ Thermal management;
+ Size;
+ Updates & upgrades;
+ Reliability !

My experience has been fairly limited with Nucular so far, about 2000kms. But reliability also safely added on above list.
That is probably of the rare things Nucular technology can NOT do: create bugs!
(nb. post limited to personal experience; there's official bug list and continuous improvement of firmware for known bugs)

It's like the pride of owning FACOM tools.
User experience is definitely that "this is some serious equipment".

Nucular controllers ought to be severely "other-worldly" running at their absolute safe max. for battery amps and phase amps at 80V+ (20S, or 21S for the most adventurous :lol: )

After wiring Nucular controllers to this build, it's hard to conceive switching back to less advanced controllers
Setting all types and sorts of parameters / being able to follow status flags / throttle filtering / converter mode / different commutation methods / even FOC PIDs tuning (and surely many worthy of mention that I have forgotten to name) make the Nucular controllers all the more worth getting into to my mind.
The firmware updates with new features, new Nucular features list and known bugs are also something of a luxury compared to what other controller manufacturers offer today. And not to forget the Telegram groups with constant very helpful/insightful support.

All said and done, what a meticulous and professional team over of Nucular Electronics!
Safe to say it's pushing the LEV "enveloppe", and quite successfully!

To end this long review(/eulogy) I would like to extend my finest compliments to the Nucular Electronics team of wizards :mrgreen:
A big BRAVO for such artful work and masterful delivery of tiniest-sized, yet highest-performing controllers 8)
What an accomplishment!
Last edited by Souvlucky on Sep 13 2019 1:34pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by jameswalker » Sep 05 2019 3:31am

A nice review Souvlucky. I had a similarly enjoyable experience with the commute this morning. I fixed the hall sensor ground and now auto tune works perfectly and FOC control was enabled.

The most apparent difference after just 1 ride is how smooth this controller is. Buttery smooth!

I will dig deeper into the settings tonight.

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by cheeko » Sep 08 2019 9:10pm

Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by lukashanak » Sep 09 2019 1:19am

cheeko wrote:
Sep 08 2019 9:10pm
Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
In battery setting folder you set max battery and full charge delta V for example max 80V and delta 2V and when you power on display and you have 78-80V battery it resets wh counter to full.
And it is in wiki... :)
Cyclone 4kW mid drive + Nucular 12F + 18s lipo = 9kW of fun :twisted: :twisted:

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by cheeko » Sep 09 2019 5:05am

lukashanak wrote:
Sep 09 2019 1:19am
cheeko wrote:
Sep 08 2019 9:10pm
Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
In battery setting folder you set max battery and full charge delta V for example max 80V and delta 2V and when you power on display and you have 78-80V battery it resets wh counter to full.
And it is in wiki... :)
Thanks Heaps, So in display where it says capacity is that the AH also
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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by Joachim » Sep 10 2019 11:46am

you want to see real Wh not Ah

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by cheeko » Sep 10 2019 5:57pm

Joachim wrote:
Sep 10 2019 11:46am
you want to see real Wh not Ah
Yeah, ill have play with it.
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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by cheeko » Sep 14 2019 8:22pm

This bad boy very nice match to my setup

Thanks Nucular ImageImageImage

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by sn0wchyld » Sep 17 2019 5:32pm

Joachim wrote:
Aug 31 2019 12:43pm
jameswalker wrote:
Aug 31 2019 2:43am
What are the best control modes plus throttle config for wheelie control, would anyone know?

I am almost at the point where I can test this thing out for real! Hopefully tomorrow.
12F or 24F?
12F is not an easy to wheelie (Only 250A Phase) but depends on battery voltage ,your engine type and final drive ,hub engine or middrive?

my sur-ron with stock engine 12F nucular controller, 52T rear sprocket you can't make wheelies with
is the 12F at 250phA better than the stock controller? wondering if I should change over to my 12F or wait for the 24F

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by John in CR » Oct 07 2019 5:11pm

A new Nuk owner here with the arrival of 3 of the 12F's. 2 will drive a 6phase (dual 3 phase actually) HubMonster, and one is going on my son's 3kw generic hubbie Phazor frame build. I already have CA3's and use will often be in heavy rain conditions, so I picked up only one display for use to set controller parameters.

One of the controllers is already set up with wires out for ebrakes, throttle, 3speed, and cruise, but none are wired for a key switch to turn on, a requirement for all of my builds. I can't find documentation for where to wire in a switch to turn ON a stand-alone 12F Nuk.

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by John in CR » Oct 07 2019 9:33pm

John in CR wrote:
Oct 07 2019 5:11pm
A new Nuk owner here with the arrival of 3 of the 12F's. 2 will drive a 6phase (dual 3 phase actually) HubMonster, and one is going on my son's 3kw generic hubbie Phazor frame build. I already have CA3's and use will often be in heavy rain conditions, so I picked up only one display for use to set controller parameters.

One of the controllers is already set up with wires out for ebrakes, throttle, 3speed, and cruise, but none are wired for a key switch to turn on, a requirement for all of my builds. I can't find documentation for where to wire in a switch to turn ON a stand-alone 12F Nuk.

If there are different solutions, I need one that supplies the high voltage to the controller brain section. That way I don't need a separate switch for the DC/DC converters I use to supply 12V for lights.

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by VasiliSk » Oct 08 2019 1:42am

key on system cable, check schematics. connect K to GND to turn on. if you want to power up from high voltage use relay
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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by madin88 » Oct 08 2019 5:53am

I would like that it turns on automatically when the battery is connected to the main wires, because i am using a precharge circuit "relay" with keyswitch and would like to avoid to press the display button on the backside additionally each time.

Is this somehow possible?

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by VasiliSk » Oct 08 2019 9:11am

Make precharge more quick and add some discharge resistor on controller +-

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by John in CR » Oct 08 2019 9:28am

I'm probably just showing what an electrical dumba$$ I am, but here goes? Since everything shares a common ground to battery negative, is there any reason I can't put my keyswitch to complete the circuit to ground for my DC/DC converter as well as K1 to gnd? I'm sticking with fuses as my protection circuitry, because there's no way I'm adding the expense, space usage, or additional failure point of adding a contactor that can handle at least 300A at 80V+. I need to make a keyswitch work for me, worst case the key only completes the K1 to gnd circuit. Then I run brake lights and turn signals off of the 12V supply from the controller, and have my headlight switch turn on the DC/DC only when needed.

On my next controller order, is it possible to pay a bit extra for mods that boost the 12V supply to 4 or 5 amps or more? If I can eliminate a DC/DC converter and still run 30-40W of lights at night, it's worth paying extra. Hopefully all it takes is beefed up wiring in the 12V supply line.

Regarding Madin88's question, the way I see the schematic, doesn't he just need to solder a jumper of K1 to ground for automatic turn on when he powers up?

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by VasiliSk » Oct 08 2019 10:07am

you could use one switch if you add diode. from controller EN -|>|- to switch (dc-dc gnd)
otherwise you will apply high voltage on EN input and controller will be probably dead. really dead. very very. not fun to fix. i warned you.

im working on 3A dc-dc for controllers
Yes actually adding a jumper here also helps sometimes

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by John in CR » Oct 08 2019 10:22am

VasiliSk wrote:
Oct 08 2019 10:07am
you could use one switch if you add diode. from controller EN -|>|- to switch (dc-dc gnd)
otherwise you will apply high voltage on EN input and controller will be probably dead. really dead. very very. not fun to fix. i warned you.

im working on 3A dc-dc for controllers
Yes actually adding a jumper here also helps sometimes
I guess I am learning some, since I was actually thinking I needed a diode.

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Anyone using solar panels to charge thru Nuc controller?

Post by John in CR » Oct 09 2019 8:42pm

Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?

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Re: Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Post by sn0wchyld » Oct 10 2019 4:06am

Vasilisk can answer better on his controller, but from a solar panel perspective... probably yes, though its ability to deal with any transients is probably non-existant (ie clouds, or someone walking infront of the panel etc). Better off with a dedicated solar controller outputing to a small battery as a buffer, then use the nuke from there - or get a solar controller that can boost the voltage to pack level.

edit - I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :P

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Re: Anyone using solar panels to charge thru Nuc controller?

Post by John in CR » Oct 11 2019 6:20am

John in CR wrote:
Oct 09 2019 8:42pm
Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?
sn0wchyld wrote:
Oct 10 2019 4:06am
.... I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :P
I love the fact that the controller can be a second level of overcharge protection at the cost of only a few watts of heat in the motor copper even at a 20A charge rate with my low resistance motors, so adding the ability to act as a solar charge controller with no usage of space or weight would give it even more value to me.

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Re: Anyone using solar panels to charge thru Nuc controller?

Post by sn0wchyld » Oct 11 2019 7:01am

John in CR wrote:
Oct 11 2019 6:20am
John in CR wrote:
Oct 09 2019 8:42pm
Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?
sn0wchyld wrote:
Oct 10 2019 4:06am
.... I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :P
I love the fact that the controller can be a second level of overcharge protection at the cost of only a few watts of heat in the motor copper even at a 20A charge rate with my low resistance motors, so adding the ability to act as a solar charge controller with no usage of space or weight would give it even more value to me.
agreed - would be a neat feature. stick my bike on the back of my truck with a panel next to it - charge up while i drive between riding spots :P - not that i'd get much charge but still... make the nuke controllers even more useful!

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