EBikeling 48v 1200w Rear Direct Drive Hub questions

G

gravityrun

100 µW
Joined
Mar 9, 2019
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7
I recently did a EBikeling 48v 1200w Rear Fat Tire DD Hub Kit (Note the actual motor can reach upto 1450watts). Comes with the S830 LCD Display. However, the controller says it's a 30amp controller. The s830 display reads the max current as 24amps when going. Battery is a 52v 20ah with a 40amp BMS rated at a peak of 120amps.

When going into the configuration settings P01-16, I see that P11 is related to the max AMP out. Currently, it doesn't allow you to set it higher than 24 in the selection options. Which to me is a bummer cause it's a 30amp controller. I've opened the controller to take a look and it has 12 FETs and 2x35v caps. (soo should handle around 1200-1500watts and 70v...).

I've got one of the BBSXXX Programming cables on the way and plan to see if they work with the ebikeling controller to allow me to modify it so that 30 amps is a selection option and maybe even for testing purposes a 40 amp (Note with the 40amp, i think I would need to perform a shunt mod, not fully sure on this as I'm new to this scene.)

I do have an issue where there isn't a speed sensor and it's suppose to be calculated based off the 26" wheel and RPM's. Option P07 appears to be related to this. With the motor, i believe it's a 23 magnet pair so I have set it to 46 to match the magnet count... at least that's how I think it works.

But I sure could use some suggestions on how to modify the actual selections for that P11 option.
 

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How is this kit working for you after a month? I just purchased the 700c version of this kit, and am planning to use my egopowerplus lawnmower battery(14s3p - 52v 7.5ah) with it. It's still in the mail until next week, so I'm reading anything and everything to make sure that this goes smoothly.

Did the LCD display let you adjust the current to 52V? (Did the programming cable work?)

Does the battery need to be undercharged to prevent an overload cut-off?

I messaged the seller and was told that the controller has cut off which is -/+ 3%, so I'm worried that the full 58.8 volts will cut it off if it's set to +/- 3% of 48v. Unless I misunderstood what he meant by that.

I'd love to know any other observations you have after riding this thing.
 
So I did manage to read out the values of the ebikling controller and indeed the controller was set for a limit of 41 amps limit of 24 amps is coming from the display controller. Now the kit is working great not to mention getting a replacement is way easier than most companies. I've actually enjoyed working with them.

So far I've put around 350 miles on my kit, breaking in the 52v 20ah battery. I would highly recommend getting a different display such as the 750c if you're going to use a 52v battery that doesn't have a BMS on it. The 830 that comes with the bike is for the 48v and doesn't have the ability to read 52v. I'm a little baffled as to why this is. I'm under the impression this has something to do with the firmware on the 830 display. But honestly still loving this kit. We have done a few modifications since, such as flipping the mirrors to be under the handle bars and setting up a bluetooth speaker mount. We did manage to break the plastic ring that is on the LCD display controller. But it's not an end of the world situation.

Now when I looked at the controller I did see that the cut off is for a 48V battery, SO DO NOT RUN a 52V cell and think it will cut off. I am running a BMS that will disable the battery once I hit 41v. Max charge on my batttery has been around 59.2v. Normally I keep it around 58.5 tops.

My research is basically pointing me in the direction of getting the 750c display with bluetooth. The controller handles 52v batteries and will give a more accurate readout.
 
Thanks a lot for the info!

Yeah - the information that the battery doesn't have a built-in cutoff still confuses me a bit. I'm guessing they've done it to discourage people from using their tools with other equipment. My other thought is that their various tools have different draw requirements, so it's easier to program each tool for their intended use than to program a battery to account for each of the tools.

I'll have to look into the 750c display. I'm glad to hear that it works even though it's a different brand. Too bad it's another $84 - which conflicts with the total price of this build. I might be putting that on my wish list.

My current plan has been to purchase the lunacycle power button and a generic voltmeter from ebay to manually watch the voltage myself. I really don't anticipate putting too much drain on the battery as the primary purpose of my build is weight loss, and I don't want the motor powered on until I am unable to continue by myself. The plan is also to commute to work, so it'd be bad if I were late. I figure that the alternative is a car... Making this a huge step up.

I just got the motor today and will hopefully be wiring everything up on Wednesday. Just waiting on that power button.

I've also had good communication with the ebikeling support team. They amended their +/- 3% statement to be +/- 13%, but if you're able to use it at 59.2 volts while fully charged, then that makes me feel a lot better about this.
 
That's part of the beauty of using this battery as well. I'm also a first-time homeowner so have the luxury of needing all new lawn power tools. As I expand my tool collection, I will expand my battery collection as well. Extra range with every tool I can sneak past my wife.

As I also mentioned above, the ebike is just meant to supplement peddling - and only when I'm too tired to do it by myself. Hopefully by the end of summer, I won't need this thing at all.
 
gravityrun said:
So I did manage to read out the values of the ebikling controller and indeed the controller was set for a limit of 41 amps limit of 24 amps is coming from the display controller. Now the kit is working great not to mention getting a replacement is way easier than most companies. I've actually enjoyed working with them.

So far I've put around 350 miles on my kit, breaking in the 52v 20ah battery. I would highly recommend getting a different display such as the 750c if you're going to use a 52v battery that doesn't have a BMS on it. The 830 that comes with the bike is for the 48v and doesn't have the ability to read 52v. I'm a little baffled as to why this is. I'm under the impression this has something to do with the firmware on the 830 display. But honestly still loving this kit. We have done a few modifications since, such as flipping the mirrors to be under the handle bars and setting up a bluetooth speaker mount. We did manage to break the plastic ring that is on the LCD display controller. But it's not an end of the world situation.

Now when I looked at the controller I did see that the cut off is for a 48V battery, SO DO NOT RUN a 52V cell and think it will cut off. I am running a BMS that will disable the battery once I hit 41v. Max charge on my batttery has been around 59.2v. Normally I keep it around 58.5 tops.

My research is basically pointing me in the direction of getting the 750c display with bluetooth. The controller handles 52v batteries and will give a more accurate readout.
Click to expand...

Is the 750c display plug and play i have a 35 amp controller from them.

The S830 has good and bad firmware. The sw900 would show battery percentage for 36,48,60, and 72 volt systems. How ever the s830 is better. I could find guides for the sw900 but the s830 is used with a different firmware and name on bafang systems so i can't get all the info. Bafang firmware also sucks and doesen't have throttle power levels and voltage display.


I like that unlike my old sw900 display I can see useful information like my battery voltage. With that info I wouldn't of killed so many batteries. Seeing voltage is so much better than a percentage meter because you don't know the low of a battery meter, the second best feature is throttle power levels I think it either controls the max amps drawn or the max wattage but it comes in handy. Gotta look at the manual to see if I can mess around with the power levels currently I have 5 levels. Power level 5 the highest as long as I am not facing gusting winds I can reach 37-41 mph on flats. In power level 4 the top speed is 31 mph. 3 is like 26-27mph. I normally ride around in the highest power level but if I have to go far and can't charge for x amount of miles ill go down a power level. This and seeing my battery voltage really make battery care easy and thats with a 60v battery. My controller is 35amps.
 
use cycle analyst ca

china displays fw weird

ca configures

manage everything to ride
 
don't thank me

responding to op

but yeah eyes of beholder

no color splash screen

horizontal only

but it works and works

keeps delivering for

many systems similar to op and beyond
 
Had problems with juliet connectors. Took apart everything trouble shooting before figuring out the error was the throttle, controller combo cord. switching to a controller that doesen't use juliet connectors and back to my sw900 display since I know the error codes for it. Gonna miss being able to view voltage of the battery and throttle power levels. Rewireing everything is going to be a pain in the ass.
 
Well i got a replacement controller and now i am getting my 30 amp draw.

My battery has a built in BMS to manage over and under voltage. So far so good with the battery. Range seems to be right around 25 to 39 miles all electric full throttle @ 32mph.

From what i can tell is that i am able to safely dump 1500watts into the motor with no issues. Tad warm but nothing serious so shouldnt be and issue for the hall sensors.

Now i will apologize for the late responses but I fried my computer when tring to dump the firmware from the ebikeling controller. Turns out the higo extension cable i ordered to connect to my uart card was not pinned out properly and the 52v line was switched. Sent 52v at 120 amps right through it. So yeah... dumping that firmware is DOA on my end until i can find a replacement motherboard for my alienware alpha r2.
 
Ebikeling LCD S830 Manual Control Panel User Manual does not list a parameter P11 . Ebikeling email reply to me " P11 is for PAS sensitivity. You can make your pedal assist sensor high or less sensitive through that option." I had P11 set at 24 ( the highest choice) thinking that equated to max amps . But no, that is not how this one works. It took 2 + turns of the 12 magnet PAS disc I switched to, for the motor to start to hum. I changed P11 to 1 , and PAS is instant start now.
 
Fwiw... I just bought an eBay ebikeling 36v 500w geared front wheel and it was throwing codes on the LCD. They sent me a return paid shipping label and refunded my money without any problems at all. I do wish I had a functional wheel but happier I'm not stuck with a defective one. So my experience is they are a solid company to work with.
 
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