New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
charakaSamawry
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2020
- Messages
- 11
Having some problems with a mad chirping sometimes squealing squeaky sound… took it apart and regreased and refit and was fixed for 5 miles but then returned but worse.. have tightened the cranks, may have over tightened when refitting and pulling the crank arm on I went and sheared the 8mm crank bolt so maybe a bit to tight but hasn’t realised the crank has bottomed out and was already quite forceful to get the crank pulled on.
Doesn’t seem like it’s coming from the crank but from the chain ring/main gear. Bearings all seemed ok when I took it apart and seals were lightly greased too
Doesn’t seem like it’s coming from the crank but from the chain ring/main gear. Bearings all seemed ok when I took it apart and seals were lightly greased too
ahagge
1 mW
THANK YOU Elinx! I'd already self-diagnosed the issue a few weeks ago when it happened to me, but it's comforting to know that it's a common issue and that symptoms match what I heard (creaking sound when pressing hard on the right crank). I was afraid there was something wrong internally, as it started when I did a hard climb.
Hopefully your post will help others with similar experience.
Hopefully your post will help others with similar experience.
Same question, same answerAkita said:
On the back of the tsdz2, That mount tightened could be help too.Akita said:
Because of the power of the motor at lower cadence, every bit of possible motor movement, because of these mounts will be heared.
So retighten all mounts very good and check this on regular base.
You quoted my (complete?) message, but as you can see I refer to a version of OSF.berrymanp said:
It depends which version is flashed?
For stock FW E08 is low voltage
OSF v0.20.1B E08 is over voltage
OSF v0.20.1C E08 is speed sensor
So non of them give torque fault
Hello guys,
a question about the least intrusive way to install hydraulic brake sensor on TSDZ2:
I have a 36v 250w TSDZ2 with VLCD5 with the 6 Pin controller.
On the rear side of VLCD5 I have the 3 rectangular ports with 3 pins each, for the ebrakes and throttle, but from what I understand in dozens of hours of web searching, these 3 ports should be functioning only on VLCD5 with 8 pins, and not on mine.
So now is the problem: what is the easiest method to install 2 simple magnet brake sensor for hydraulic brakes?
I have seen the wiki but I would like to avoid cutting the main controller cable, solder, etc... so maybe there is some other "tricks in the sleeve" with extension or Y cables, or other "black magic" that I don't know yet?
I come from the BBS02 world, and I'm really a newbie on the TSDZ2 universe!
a question about the least intrusive way to install hydraulic brake sensor on TSDZ2:
I have a 36v 250w TSDZ2 with VLCD5 with the 6 Pin controller.
On the rear side of VLCD5 I have the 3 rectangular ports with 3 pins each, for the ebrakes and throttle, but from what I understand in dozens of hours of web searching, these 3 ports should be functioning only on VLCD5 with 8 pins, and not on mine.
So now is the problem: what is the easiest method to install 2 simple magnet brake sensor for hydraulic brakes?
I have seen the wiki but I would like to avoid cutting the main controller cable, solder, etc... so maybe there is some other "tricks in the sleeve" with extension or Y cables, or other "black magic" that I don't know yet?
I come from the BBS02 world, and I'm really a newbie on the TSDZ2 universe!
Looks like finally developed some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.
Attachments
casainho said:
Everything works as it should.
Thanks for explaining what this calibration is about.
The final problem that appeared was the incorrectly counted kilometers of the route. I have already seen this problem in this topic and it is associated with the change of the program code. Maybe someone could throw this file with changed rulers so that the display correctly calculates the distance.
shaddi
1 W
- Joined
- May 30, 2018
- Messages
- 50
Just wanted to leave some infos about using a Shimano Alfine 11 hub gear with the Motor. To make it short: Don't do it! The stress on the mechnanics are just too high. I damaged mine almost completly. Only some gears are usable, the rest is "jumping through with loud noises" 
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Hi There,
A beginner question.
Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.
It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
A beginner question.
Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.
It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
imho does that mean an open connection for the (magnetic) brakes switch, so your motor won't rotate because the controller thinks you brakes are pulled.Christiaan said:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-brake-sensors
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Elinx said:
Thanks for the answer. Just measured the cable again however there is no continuity in the brake circuit (no short). So the circuit is not closed.
So the system should not see the brakes I think
.Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Maybe good to mention. I bought such a cable.
And used this schemetic to wire it to a 6 pin male connector (so used exactly this picture):
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-SW102-to-TSDZ2
And used this schemetic to wire it to a 6 pin male connector (so used exactly this picture):
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-SW102-to-TSDZ2
raylo32
100 kW
I just went through this whilst trying to install a new controller pre flashed with OSF, 850C display, and new matching Bafang cable set. I found that the these Bafang displays show "error: brakes" when they are failing to communicate with the controller. I concluded that I got a bad controller. I re-installed my OEM controller and the bike and motor are working correctly again... OSF on the VLCD5 not on the new Bafang color display that I got with the defective controller.
Christiaan said:
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
raylo32 said:
So you mean the controller in the motor could be bad.
Yes I got it from China. Are these known to be DOA? Would be a pity. I thought I made a wiring mistake however the cable seems to checkout with my multimeter.I can connect with the controller and read and flash it via USB.
If there are no brakes, the connection, with 2 wire magnetic brake switches, must be closed to GND (black 8 and white 4 in the connection schematic) .Christiaan said:
I your case (open connection) the brakelevers are "pulled on", so the motor can't run.
In case of a 3 wired connector. Look carefully that you haven't a connection to Vcc.
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Elinx said:
Thanks for the feedback.
My tsdz2 came with a 6 pin plug. So I don’t have the vcc and it is also not wired up by me.
Pulling the brakes closes the circuit. The brakes in the non pulled situation are open.
But based on your feedback I also tried with a closed circuit but that does not change or influence the failure mode.
skestans
100 W
shaddi said:Just wanted to leave some infos about using a Shimano Alfine 11 hub gear with the Motor. To make it short: Don't do it! The stress on the mechnanics are just too high. I damaged mine almost completly. Only some gears are usable, the rest is "jumping through with loud noises"
Bummer. I was considering an Alfine (but the one with less gears, I think 7?) but I guess I won’t. AFAIK shimano also makes a beefier nexus 5 for their ebikes, maybe that one would work and handle the torque.
skestans
100 W
sysrq said:
I would get a replacement cover. They don’t cost much (I think I paid 15$ delivered for mine on aliexpress) and then you don’t have to worry about whether the plastic is properly fixed or whether water/grime will seep into the main gear chamber.
