New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Elinx said:
Yes sure the gnd at the brake cable has contunity with the battery ground.
seattlesockey
10 mW
Attempting to update display using APT boot loader w/ Silicon Labs CP210x USB to UART Bridge COM 3 driver. But keep getting "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". Worked before on MS Surface tablet (as recently as March 2021). Tried uninstall/install multiple times with same result.
Hoping someone has an idea what's wrong and how to fix it.
Hoping someone has an idea what's wrong and how to fix it.
[/quote]skestans said:
If I get a new one it will end up in the same state anyway and will cause unnecessary friction. Adding some silicone from the other side while drilling small holes to stop the crack from spreading looks like the best option at the moment.
Theoretically the crack is too small for dirt and water to seep in through the layer of grease in between though.
[/quote]
Upon opening some streaks of black discoloration from Putoline chain wax were seen inside, not directly on the pinion gear frontal surface though (not sure if releasing the whole thing would be currently necessary). Will see if silicone layer in this configuration will be able to stay in place since the surrounding 1.95mm ridge prevents the contact between the plastic cover and pinion gear.
Attachments
nbdriver said:
Hi,
i have the same motor with 4 pin connection (SFM DU250). I think left is GND / right is SWIM.
I tried two different progammers but it will not work to read out the data.
Is there any special trick to do?
Do i need RST?
I powered on the motor.
Thanks
RST will not be used for flashing the controllerriscpower said:
You only need to connect SWM/GND/Vcc
Maybe for 4pin SFM DU250 you find some info
raylo32
100 kW
Circling back to this, still trying to get my TSDZ2 to work on OSF with the 850C display. Recap: I bought a preprogrammed controller and display, updated them to 20.1C and the display didn't boot. After 45 seconds it displays "error brakes" as in the photo below. I went back to my VLCD5 setup on OSF with my original controller again (works perfect) for awhile then today decided to try the 805C again.
I got the custom adapter cable from Electrify that has the reverse gender to connect up to my known good OEM controller on the motor end and the Bafang display, throttle, and brakes on the other end. I then flashed both the motor and the 850 C with 20.1C and connected everything using this new 4 to 1 cable connected to the OEM controller. I still get the same error brakes.
I tested the brakes and the continuity state does indeed change with the brakes. I also tested the brake supply side connector for the correct voltage and grounds, all perfect.
And I get the same error if the brakes are not connected at all. Aren't the brakes optional and shouldn't this work without brakes being installed at all?
WTF is going on here? I read somewhere that this error on boot means a communication failure between the motor controller and display. Do I have a bad display? Seems unlikely. What to try next? I'd really rather have this working on the 850C as opposed to the VLCD5. Is this possibly caused by a bad motor flash? I am following the wiki and I have flashed the motor with OEM updates via the same ST Micro method with no issues... although IIRC with the OEM you write all tabs not just the program tab.
I got the custom adapter cable from Electrify that has the reverse gender to connect up to my known good OEM controller on the motor end and the Bafang display, throttle, and brakes on the other end. I then flashed both the motor and the 850 C with 20.1C and connected everything using this new 4 to 1 cable connected to the OEM controller. I still get the same error brakes.
I tested the brakes and the continuity state does indeed change with the brakes. I also tested the brake supply side connector for the correct voltage and grounds, all perfect.
And I get the same error if the brakes are not connected at all. Aren't the brakes optional and shouldn't this work without brakes being installed at all?
WTF is going on here? I read somewhere that this error on boot means a communication failure between the motor controller and display. Do I have a bad display? Seems unlikely. What to try next? I'd really rather have this working on the 850C as opposed to the VLCD5. Is this possibly caused by a bad motor flash? I am following the wiki and I have flashed the motor with OEM updates via the same ST Micro method with no issues... although IIRC with the OEM you write all tabs not just the program tab.
raylo32
100 kW
Well, after programming I read the tab and it verifies... but after switching the display off and powering it back on I see "not programmed" in the dialog when I read the tab. So it looks like the flash is not taking for some reason.
It looks like this until I power it off:
The after I power it off and back on and read the program memory the left dialog side I see this:
[0x008000 - 0x00BFFF]
File: TSDZ2-v20.1C.1-860C.hex Checksum: 0x18487A
Not programmed
Memory checksum: 0x18487A
Casainho said that if this happens we can fix the issue by "NOTE: sometimes the microcontroller on the TSDZ2 motor controllers stops to working (this can happens when we disconnect the battery or something like that), we can´t program it anymore. The way to recover is by programming the option byte to some default value." I see the Option Byte tab and can program it but I have no idea what a "default value" might be??
It looks like this until I power it off:
The after I power it off and back on and read the program memory the left dialog side I see this:
[0x008000 - 0x00BFFF]
File: TSDZ2-v20.1C.1-860C.hex Checksum: 0x18487A
Not programmed
Memory checksum: 0x18487A
Casainho said that if this happens we can fix the issue by "NOTE: sometimes the microcontroller on the TSDZ2 motor controllers stops to working (this can happens when we disconnect the battery or something like that), we can´t program it anymore. The way to recover is by programming the option byte to some default value." I see the Option Byte tab and can program it but I have no idea what a "default value" might be??
raylo32
100 kW
OK, I got it! I read the Option Byte Tab, then "programmed". Then redid the program memory program and it works. Holy crap, what a lot of time wasted on this.
raylo32
100 kW
I verified that this happens every time I try to install a new version. I have to first program the option byte tab and then only will the new OSF motor program take and allow the display to boot up without "error brakes". Not sure if I am the only one seeing this issue but holy jeez this needs to be emphasized more than that small note in the wiki. I literally wasted a couple of days on this, retrying, searching the web, testing the brake pinouts. Sheesh.
raylo32
100 kW
Did you get this sorted? If you recall I had the same issue with 2 separate controllers and finally figured it out. You need to program the option byte tab first and THEN flash the program memory tab and the update will take. The wiki sort of talks about this but really not in enough detail. I did it 2 ways... first I just read the option byte tab and then programmed it. I also went to Eco-bikes to the archive (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGcBtTj8GrGQ4tDJAECr6ejMrpW2ZqvH) and got the default OEM option byte file and flashed that. In both cases I flashed the program memory immediately thereafter and the updates took. Man, I wasted so much time on this... See the couple of posts previous to this.
Christiaan said:
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
raylo32 said:
No still got the e: brakes message. I tried the option byte thingy but this also doesn’t work for me. I’m getting fed up with this somewhat if I’m honest because there isn’t something obvious wrong. Maybe should buy a new cable and a new controller.
Christiaan
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2021
- Messages
- 8
Just flashed the orginal firmware back and connected the orginal display.
This works. So the controller is okay.
Could still be a bad cable somehow.
Maybe should buy a known good cable to be 100% sure. I have a 6 pin tsdz2. So I need 6 pin m to 5 pin m. Anybody maybe have these available or selling them or making them?
This works. So the controller is okay.
Could still be a bad cable somehow.
Maybe should buy a known good cable to be 100% sure. I have a 6 pin tsdz2. So I need 6 pin m to 5 pin m. Anybody maybe have these available or selling them or making them?
Beatdown run on wifes hybrid. Max assist the whole way, probably 200-250w of human input on upright hybrid that was too small for me.
Was testing with tiny aliexpress 2a13p battery that is a knockoff of the ones electrify/bicycle motor works sell.
She is not that athletic so i figure the extra 100-150w i put in over her should be more than offset by the added wind resistance of 22mph vs the 16 or 17 she may average
I was trying to assess thermal capability as well as battery life under worst case conditions
Started the ride fully charged, ended at 46.5 V so just under half.
Supposedly battery is 9.6 amp hours, According to my calculations I averaged right around 13w/mi so i would say the cells are genuine ncr21700t
Figuring in the real world, she should be able to get 25 to 30 miles out of it at moderate speeds
Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
Was testing with tiny aliexpress 2a13p battery that is a knockoff of the ones electrify/bicycle motor works sell.
She is not that athletic so i figure the extra 100-150w i put in over her should be more than offset by the added wind resistance of 22mph vs the 16 or 17 she may average
I was trying to assess thermal capability as well as battery life under worst case conditions
Started the ride fully charged, ended at 46.5 V so just under half.
Supposedly battery is 9.6 amp hours, According to my calculations I averaged right around 13w/mi so i would say the cells are genuine ncr21700t
Figuring in the real world, she should be able to get 25 to 30 miles out of it at moderate speeds
Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
raylo32
100 kW
Do you have any of the hardware cooling modes and/or a temp sensor on it? The case seeming to be just "warm" is deceiving since there is an air gap. If I ride mine where it makes even just 200-300 motor watts it goes from 21C to 75C in about 5 minutes. Any harder than that and it exceeds 80C in no time. You are probably cooking your motor.
Manbeer said:
hetm4n said:riscpower said:
I had a separate programming cable with the 4-pin version, hidden under the cover on the rack side.
I opened the cover and i have them same connector cable. Do you have the assignement? Thanks a lot xD
---
I don't need assistance anymore black = GND / yellow = SWIM / Try and Error.
I flashed successfully
Retrorockit
1 kW
Manbeer said:
The COVER was warm, the motor itself is much hotter. If you do the cooling mods the heat will move from the motor to the cover. Then it can be dissipated to the air stream. It's actually better if the cover gets hot (with the cooling mods in place).
Yup, i got that the thermal path is not that great. According to my calculation i was pulling just under 13w/mi or 290w/hr continuous (22.5mph x 13w, correct me if i am calculating incorrectly ) which i don't imagine would be terribly bad to dissipate
Not terribly familiar with celsius but they say the typical threshold for something to feel hot is around 140f, so without having a temp sensor, all i can say is the case was below that imo
Not terribly familiar with celsius but they say the typical threshold for something to feel hot is around 140f, so without having a temp sensor, all i can say is the case was below that imo
Retrorockit said:
raylo32 said:
beemac said:
How can 10mm offset chainring work if there is only a 1mm gap between chain and plastic cable entry cover when the original 5mm offset chainring is used?
The plastic cable entry cover is quite thick so it can be replaced by a thinner one I guess.
Not sure if 10mm offset chainring could be a solution to stop the friction and wear on the plastic pinion gear cover or not.
Haven't seen any close up pictures with 10mm offset chainring mounted.
beemac
1 kW
sysrq said:
because the offset wraps around the motor body. Wouldn't work with smaller chainrings - look at the images on eco-bike site - you can see the offset.
beemac
1 kW
sysrq said:
look at the pictures on the vendor site - the offset isn't sloping - it's a right angle.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/3070/4372/products/20200506_184004_540x.jpg?v=1589397986
