New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Hi all. Happy tsdz2 user for 2 years with about 2k miles on the bike using the osf with great results.
I washed my bike down at the weekend and since have been getting all sorts of issues
My speed sensor is very intermittent. I had a second one and so changed it but with the same result despite no change in position of magnet or sensor.
Even when the speed sensor is working now the motor doesn't kick in at all.
I really don't know what's going on with it and wondered if the controller had got ruined but things like he lights and other functions still work. Any ideas why the motor wouldn't start at all??
Jim
I washed my bike down at the weekend and since have been getting all sorts of issues
My speed sensor is very intermittent. I had a second one and so changed it but with the same result despite no change in position of magnet or sensor.
Even when the speed sensor is working now the motor doesn't kick in at all.
I really don't know what's going on with it and wondered if the controller had got ruined but things like he lights and other functions still work. Any ideas why the motor wouldn't start at all??
Jim
So I think it must be the motor (though I can't see anything wrong with it when I opened the housing) because it won't even start up in walk mode. Having intermittent issues still with my speed sensor. Not sure what else to do really except order a replacement motor.
7lucky7 said:
Hi thanks for your reply. This was my first thought, but I've opened the casing, no sign of water, looked at all wiring connections, plus other functions work like the lights and startup doesn't show any problem.
I tried turning the walk assist mode on and that won't work either.
I'm waiting for some circlip pliers so I can inspect the torque sensor but my understanding is even this shouldn't affect the walk assist mode.
If the torque sensor looks fine I think I'll be forced to order a new motor though I don't know what else I could do. If the torque sensor is knackered I can obviously replace it. I don't know how I would test the controller, the vlcd5 turns on and I can go through all functions including lights etc so that to me suggests is ok.
I read one post of something similar where somebody said water ingress into a frayed wire had caused it to break down and corrode but I can't see any evidence of this anywhere inside.
I tried turning the walk assist mode on and that won't work either.
I'm waiting for some circlip pliers so I can inspect the torque sensor but my understanding is even this shouldn't affect the walk assist mode.
If the torque sensor looks fine I think I'll be forced to order a new motor though I don't know what else I could do. If the torque sensor is knackered I can obviously replace it. I don't know how I would test the controller, the vlcd5 turns on and I can go through all functions including lights etc so that to me suggests is ok.
I read one post of something similar where somebody said water ingress into a frayed wire had caused it to break down and corrode but I can't see any evidence of this anywhere inside.
Chri_Tof said:
7lucky7 said:
Since the problem occurred after washing, chances are very high that your problems are water related. Maybe double check the connections? Sometimes moisture is drawn into the connectors by capillary action and causes contact problems. Peel everything off and let dry.
The torque sensor can be read out via the display. Do you have the manual? It should tell you how to do it. But i dont think its the torquesensor if the walkassist works.
PS: Here is the German manual. How to read out the TS is writen in chapter 5.5.
https://enerdan.awsapps.com/workdocs/index.html#/share/document/057ace9015ff29c42dd846b3fe928f7ae2407c5f8f5ade8cda712c157d0500e7
Greets Chris
FIXED
so I've had everything apart today to try and dry it which didn't seem to fix the problem.
I also posted on the pedelec forum. ( https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/tsdz2-motor-failure-after-washing.43740/ )
Where someone kindly suggested that they had a similar problem and thought it was a controller fault maybe caused by water ingress. They swapped it out for a new one.
I reflashed the software (slight upgrade actually but same settings) onto the old one after a few attempts and it seems to be back up and working fine.
Perhaps some water ingress corrupted the osf hence giving faults with the speed sensor and the motor. But it's fixed for now.
I'll repost if this re-occurs. Feel free to message me/reply if you have similar problems.
so I've had everything apart today to try and dry it which didn't seem to fix the problem.
I also posted on the pedelec forum. ( https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/tsdz2-motor-failure-after-washing.43740/ )
Where someone kindly suggested that they had a similar problem and thought it was a controller fault maybe caused by water ingress. They swapped it out for a new one.
I reflashed the software (slight upgrade actually but same settings) onto the old one after a few attempts and it seems to be back up and working fine.
Perhaps some water ingress corrupted the osf hence giving faults with the speed sensor and the motor. But it's fixed for now.
I'll repost if this re-occurs. Feel free to message me/reply if you have similar problems.
beemac
1 kW
7lucky7 said:
Glad you got it fixed, was going to suggest a reflash. I've had similar issues in the past oddly also when I washed my bike. Are you running casainho's osf, if so out of interest what version of the motor firmware are you using? There are some fixes in the version past 1.00 that prevent memory corruption under certain circumstances that I think caused my issues.
V1.1.1 binary of the motor fw is on this page:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/Color_LCD/releases
Oh but I have just noticed that someone posted a bugfix to my changes that I haven't looked at, and that last change isn't included in the 1.1.1 binary. I really need to dig out my dev environment from storage and get coding again...
Running this https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/releases/tag/v20.1C.2
Feel the vlcd5 did sightly limit by ability to see what read going on but it's what I've got so
.
Was so happy with it I hadn't changed anything in literally over a year. Had to dig out my ST Link and remember how to connect
Feel the vlcd5 did sightly limit by ability to see what read going on but it's what I've got so
. Was so happy with it I hadn't changed anything in literally over a year. Had to dig out my ST Link and remember how to connect
beemac said:
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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I have a question about torque sensing and shifting. Most of the time my bike works really well. I'm still trying to figure out the optimal way to use the Tongsheng assist. Sometimes, I just want to go someplace as fast as possible and am using the whole traffic lane so I'll accelerate fairly quickly. I start on gear 3 or 4 and work my way up to gear 6. If I do this on full assist I can get there pretty quickly. I've found if I use gear 7 which is my highest gear (smallest cog), I'm not sure what it's doing but it feels like it may be slipping with pedal assist on. There's just a kind of an awful tearing sound. I have the intuition that gear 7 should only be used either going downhill with no assist. Would you say this is accurate? Also, would starting on gear 3-4 with full assist be ok for the motor or can I start on a higher gear if I want to accelerate quickly from a stop light? I'm not using the e-brakes so was also curious if I have my weight on the pedals when I'm stopped while clinching my brake levers. It seems to take a little pressure for a few seconds for the assist to kick in so I'm assuming I'm not ruining my motor by not using the lever brakes.
Also, I'm not sure about the optimal power setting I should be used on the controller.
Also, I'm not sure about the optimal power setting I should be used on the controller.
Essentially this max torque takeoff in your highest gear is a bad idea. If you start in your highest gear you are putting maximum torque through the motor to get going. And the resistance to turning is high. You'll basically shred your blue gear if that isn't the noise you're already hearing. You don't say what wattage/voltage motor you are using so difficult to help with settings for your controller.
The blue gear is an intentional weak point that sacrifices itself rather than burn out the motor. If you start to get any slippage then I would inspect it.
The blue gear is an intentional weak point that sacrifices itself rather than burn out the motor. If you start to get any slippage then I would inspect it.
scrolltonowhere said:
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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7lucky7 said:
Thank you for that. I have a 250/350W 36v motor I actually rarely use the high gear now after I heard that slipping sort of grinding sound. It seems to only occur when I'm going pretty fast in a higher ger (6 or 7) with higher torque especially while going up a hill. Would you recommend I check the blue gear even if this is basically brand new? I heard it the sound and the slippage I described the first time I took it out for a ride and I was trying to cruise along in 7th gear to see how fast it went.
I'll start on a lower torque while taking off from the stoplights as you mentioned.
Chalo
100 TW
Wapous said:
Awesome non-engineering! Why bother designing something right, when people will buy it anyway and fix the problems themselves?
endlessolli
100 W
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Chalo said:
Always entertaining - your bickering about the TSDZ2 :lol:
Its not perfect - but I love mine. And such a great community here that helps to make it a reliable cheap torque driven midmotor
Hi, I'm having some trouble with the OSF on a SW102, error code is 'e:brakes'.
I'm using TSDZ2-v1.1.1 with sw102-1.1.0
I've seen a few posts about this error and have tried some of the solutions but they don't seem to be working.
The OSF did work for a short time when I first flashed it but then I tried to connect the throttle cables with the battery still connected and got a small spark and it wouldn't work afterwards. Could this be the cause of my problem?
I did have the cables connected with multi-pin blocks but have now soldered the 5 main wires to rule out a bad connection, I've left the throttle disconnected for now. I have it wired as follows-
TSDZ2 (8 pin) - SW102
Brown - Black
Black - Red
Blue - Yellow
Red - Blue
Yellow - Green
I have reflashed the controller using STLink and STVP STM8s105x6 and reflashed the display over bluetooth.
I have downloaded the Stock Option Bite from the Eco Cycles Google Drive and flashed the using both STM8s105x6 and STM8s105x4
Is there anyway to troubleshoot this issue? I have never done any programming before or used STVP before now so I am trying to follow the directions on here as best as possible but I could easily made a very basic mistake at any stage.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm using TSDZ2-v1.1.1 with sw102-1.1.0
I've seen a few posts about this error and have tried some of the solutions but they don't seem to be working.
The OSF did work for a short time when I first flashed it but then I tried to connect the throttle cables with the battery still connected and got a small spark and it wouldn't work afterwards. Could this be the cause of my problem?
I did have the cables connected with multi-pin blocks but have now soldered the 5 main wires to rule out a bad connection, I've left the throttle disconnected for now. I have it wired as follows-
TSDZ2 (8 pin) - SW102
Brown - Black
Black - Red
Blue - Yellow
Red - Blue
Yellow - Green
I have reflashed the controller using STLink and STVP STM8s105x6 and reflashed the display over bluetooth.
I have downloaded the Stock Option Bite from the Eco Cycles Google Drive and flashed the using both STM8s105x6 and STM8s105x4
Is there anyway to troubleshoot this issue? I have never done any programming before or used STVP before now so I am trying to follow the directions on here as best as possible but I could easily made a very basic mistake at any stage.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Chalo
100 TW
endlessolli said:Chalo said:
Always entertaining - your bickering about the TSDZ2 :lol:
Its not perfect - but I love mine. And such a great community here that helps to make it a pathetically unreliable cheap torque driven midmotor
Fixed that for you.
jbalat
10 kW
Hi Chalo,
I'm not sure what you are driving at ?
Ive had mine for more than 30,000kms and knock on wood its been very reliable. Now that I have swapped over my brass gear with a blue gear I'm also finding it super quiet. The torque sensing and software is miles ahead of Fazua and Bosch in my books and I prefer riding it to work. It is an ideal motor for commuting.
If all we need to do is add some teflon tape every few years then I would take that any day of the week. I can't imagine the type of hassle I would have if my Fazua or Bosch motors decide to play up now that they are both out of warranty.
I'm not sure what you are driving at ?
Ive had mine for more than 30,000kms and knock on wood its been very reliable. Now that I have swapped over my brass gear with a blue gear I'm also finding it super quiet. The torque sensing and software is miles ahead of Fazua and Bosch in my books and I prefer riding it to work. It is an ideal motor for commuting.
If all we need to do is add some teflon tape every few years then I would take that any day of the week. I can't imagine the type of hassle I would have if my Fazua or Bosch motors decide to play up now that they are both out of warranty.
hey guys , regarding that coils and teflon - did anyone decided to put any grease on them ? silicone maybe or ptfe ? a buddy of mine replaced most of the bearings and says that now he hears only motor , so there is a room for improvement , but i was always curious if it might be worthy to put something on the coils ...?
casainho
10 GW
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- 6,045
I would like to share information about my EBike that is more and more electric!!
I just installed the electronic gears from SRAM AXS 12 speed and they are perfect because now my gears work like a swiss watch!!
Recently I also installed Garmin Rally XC200 Power Meter Bike Pedals.
(I know there are other wireless electronics like to control the drop post, lock the suspension or see the tire pressure)
And the best is that everything is working with ANT+ so I get on the GPS cycling computer the following data:
- TSDZ2 / Bafang EBike motor assist level and battery SOC (thanks to our EasyDIY OpenSource display)
- derailleur gear number and optimally the battery level
- my pedal power graph (to get advanced fitness cycling metrics on Garmin)
- my heart rate graph
I just installed the electronic gears from SRAM AXS 12 speed and they are perfect because now my gears work like a swiss watch!!
Recently I also installed Garmin Rally XC200 Power Meter Bike Pedals.
(I know there are other wireless electronics like to control the drop post, lock the suspension or see the tire pressure)
And the best is that everything is working with ANT+ so I get on the GPS cycling computer the following data:
- TSDZ2 / Bafang EBike motor assist level and battery SOC (thanks to our EasyDIY OpenSource display)
- derailleur gear number and optimally the battery level
- my pedal power graph (to get advanced fitness cycling metrics on Garmin)
- my heart rate graph
jeff.page.rides
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2019
- Messages
- 295
scrolltonowhere said:
The sound you hear is most likely the one-way bearing in the blue gear. Just like all the parts, the quality is not consistent. It can be larger than should be bearing, and or the motor shaft could be smaller. It turns up most of the time when there is too much torque, like riding or trying to take off in too high of a gear. I watch Candance and stay above 60 on a light load and 80 on a heavy load.
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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- Mar 30, 2022
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- 76
jeff.page.rides said:
Thank you for your assessment of my issue. You wouldn't believe it. Or maybe you will. I don't know much about bikes and I tried to do everything by myself with this 90's bike with old broken components. I finally decided to take it to a local expert down the street at my LBS. I told him about my indexing issues. I couldn't get it just right and it was really frustrating. It turns out there was a little ferule wedged into the rear deraiuller. I thought it was a part of the derailleur but it turns out it was just an old one. I was using that with another feurle. He told me that you want to reduce the amount of these things to improve shifting. He removed the ferule, helped me fine tune the indexing and now the shifting is working as normal. I'm not getting any slipping on the chain or anything like that anymore. So I'm thinking the motor and blue gear are just fine. It's amazing the things you learn IRL :lol:
Next, I noticed that my motor is now in the bottom bracket as firmly as I thought. I can wiggle it up and down very easily with my hands. I realized that perhaps the M33 nut is not as tight as it could be. Perhaps tightening this will improve it and I guess that's the first thing I should try. I think it's time to just buy a crank removal tool.
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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Elinx said:
I've been experiencing right knee pain while riding my Tongsheng converted bicycle. My partner said my knees look like they're bowed inward and looks awkward. In fact I've been feeling a lot of right knee pain since riding this bike. My other bike is a non e-bike Peugeot road bike and the distance between the seat tube and the crank arm is less than 50.8mm. The Tongsheng converted Trek is around 88.9mm. I just wanted to see if the solution is still the same. Should I just get one Bafang (right side) crank arm or should I go for something like a set of SHIMANO FC-E5010 STEPS Crank arm 165mm. I'm not sure if these were more common a year or so ago but I don't really see them for sale anymore.
FYI:
April 2022 I have posted a message about the maingear with a double onewaybearing for easier biking without power.
mspider65 has observed that PSWPower sell these new versions as Tsdz2B.
It should be interesting to know if this new version will be better and has also the V2 controller with 32bit Infineon chip or maybe another V3 controller.
So if someone has bought or is going to buy this version I hope they share their experiences.
EDIT: 23 juli 2022
There is a confirmation from tr8, that the controller still is the same in the new Tsdz2B from PSWPower, so it it still flashable.
April 2022 I have posted a message about the maingear with a double onewaybearing for easier biking without power.
mspider65 has observed that PSWPower sell these new versions as Tsdz2B.
It should be interesting to know if this new version will be better and has also the V2 controller with 32bit Infineon chip or maybe another V3 controller.
So if someone has bought or is going to buy this version I hope they share their experiences.
EDIT: 23 juli 2022
There is a confirmation from tr8, that the controller still is the same in the new Tsdz2B from PSWPower, so it it still flashable.
endlessolli
100 W
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endlessolli said:
Just a feedback to the community: I replaced the µcontroller (STM8S105S4T6C; bought via ebay for 3€) (and the 100µF cap)- and the controller works again! This is the 1st time I soldered anything with such a small pin pitch. The old broken one I removed by cutting the legs nearest to the chip with a dremel; then removed the chip and desoldered the remaining pins. This was easier than I thought. Programming via SWIM worked w/o issues. Really happy that I could salvage this controller - esp as these older ST based controllers seem to get harder to come by these days.
Other than that, I am also really interrested in what @Elinx posted - the different 'flavors' of the TSDZ2 / which controller they use. Especially, as a friend is about to order one from PSW Power - and I don't know what to recommend:
- I really would like to get him one with the ST µcontroller, so he can use mbrusas firmware (But you can not specify that in the order)
- What are the benefits of TSDZ2B? When this new spragclutch brakes - then what? It is not a generic part like the CK30P. Also - in which flavors does this B Version come? IFX µcontroller? ST one? Random?
Attachments
:thumb: Good to hearendlessolli said:
:thumb:Wapous said:
We only can know this if someone give feedback of this Tsdz2B.endlessolli said:
From the description of AliExpress it looks only a mechanical update, but with Tongsheng you can always expect some other surprises too. We have to be patient.
EDIT: 23 juli 2022
Fortunately, our patience was not tested for long, because there is a confirmation from tr8, that the controller still is the same inside the new Tsdz2B from PSWPower, so it it still flashable.
Also the rubber dustseal has the same size, so you can replace it for a 6902 bearing for more support of the spindle on the other side of the circlip groove.
