zekill said:hi all,
my C-3000 have just about 300 miles and make a mechanical noise ... but work normaly.
I have pull out gearings and the noise still present.
it's seem that the front motor bearing not have play.
Anyone have this issue ?
TOLM said:
so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.zekill said:thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.TOLM said:More guidance:
Dear Pavel,
Unfortunately the controller only recognize 48,60,72V 3 types battery. So the only way is to let it think that you are using the 48V. The 52V battery when fully discharged should be around 46/47V, you may use a discharged 52V battery to let the controller think that you are using the 48V battery,
Best regards,
Jon
zekill said:so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.zekill said:thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
I change there with branded gearing and no noise.
I thing to changing the five reductor gearings too ...
TOLM said:Got a response from gng. Wppwrently the 48-74v controller was. Intended for 60v batteries
Any one has a clue what is meant by " plug in the self learning wire"? Right now this wire is not used at all. ?
Thanks
*********
Dear Pavel,
I see what happen. Just asked the controller factory and they have set the low voltage cut off to your controller and we would not have that in next batch.
The controller self detected the battery to be 60V, and thus set the low voltage cut off at 54.4V.
There is a way to solve this problem:
please find a 48V battery (or if you can discharge your current battery to be lower than 52V)
plug in the self learning wire again.
The motor will set the low voltage cut off base on 48V battery.
Unplug the self learning wire.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.
6201 and 6203 are the two motor bearings, 2RS version (sealed).electric_nz said:zekill said:so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.zekill said:thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
I change there with branded gearing and no noise.
I thing to changing the five reductor gearings too ...
Would you happen to know the bearing sizes? and any recommendations on ordering a replacement set in advance?
markz said:No grease in the gear reduction, not good.
ScooterMan101 said:1) Looks like the controller is not working as it should, don't know if the factory that makes the controller for GNG made a mistake on programming , or , if the Fets / Caps / and or Shunts are not good enough for a Real 72 volt controller .
A real 72 volt controller should have at least 90v or 100 v caps .
Your controller should not have a LVC of 54.4 volts . for a 14s battery pack , otherwise known as a 52 volt battery pack , an LVC of 54.4 volts is only letting the battery discharge to 3.89 v per cell. You will not get the range you should get from that . On my hub motor bike I adjust the Cycle Analyst to have a LVC of 51 volts . I forgot exactly the % at that voltage , somewhere around 10 % or 15% left in the battery pack .
I also do not understand what " self learning wire " is ... Howard said it is the white or yellow wires on the controller.
I think there is something lost in the translation from Chinese to English .
on my Infineon clone controllers the white wire when plugged together allows the controller / motor to regen.
Does the Cyclone / GNG 3000 watt mid drive have the ability to use regen ? if not then unplug the white wires , and have nothing plugged into them.
B.T.W. I just got mine this week, I did not order it with a controller since I have a few new controllers sitting around.
But I am going to have to find the Shunt Value of my controller and its voltage ( I know it is at least a 48/52 v capable controller ) and I will have to cut off the HiGo connector from the controller and also put some connectors on the Phase Wires of the 3000w motor .
I really do not know why GNG does not use the Standard 4mm bullet female connectors on the motor phase wires like most every other motor does .
4mm female bullet connectors on the motor side makes connecting up a controller much easier and cleaner !
Perhaps we all , including people who want to buy the new 2019 3000 watt motor let GNG ( Jon/Howard ) know that we want 4mm female bullet connectors on the motor .
TOLM said:Got a response from gng. Wppwrently the 48-74v controller was. Intended for 60v batteries
Any one has a clue what is meant by " plug in the self learning wire"? Right now this wire is not used at all. ?
Thanks
*********
Dear Pavel,
I see what happen. Just asked the controller factory and they have set the low voltage cut off to your controller and we would not have that in next batch.
The controller self detected the battery to be 60V, and thus set the low voltage cut off at 54.4V.
There is a way to solve this problem:
please find a 48V battery (or if you can discharge your current battery to be lower than 52V)
plug in the self learning wire again.
The motor will set the low voltage cut off base on 48V battery.
Unplug the self learning wire.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.
TOLM said:markz said:No grease in the gear reduction, not good.
To access the gear reduction - is this the drive side? (Remove freewheel and then the cover to add grease?)
markz said:Not sure about the GNG, but I just did my Cyclone 4kw, and its 4 bolts on the gear side, no need to remove the freewheel gear. Its easy to get out, putting it back in so that all the gears line up, is a matter of wiggling the freewheel and wiggling the gear reduction itself until it slides in easy. No pressure, very slight.
TOLM said:markz said:No grease in the gear reduction, not good.
To access the gear reduction - is this the drive side? (Remove freewheel and then the cover to add grease?)